mustang1989 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Thanks Ernesto! So I picked up this 1/25 scale Revell Camaro for any spare parts I might need along the way, a few of which I have used. I've gotten some commentary on how bad the old Monogram Camaro was in terms of size and overall accuracy in which I can say that those comments are right on in almost every sense of the word. Nevertheless, my original goal was to restore my first auto build and I will be staying true to that course. However there is a temporary set back with the engine. I test fitted the 396 that I've been building up into the mocked up build and I'm glad I did. Talk about what looks like a mouse motor looking 396 in there between the fenders!!! The more I looked at it , the more I saw a distinct difference in not only scale but from the last BB Chevy I built that went into my '54 Panel. So I turned right back to the AMT BB Chevy for an engine build. Both are the "same scale" at 1/25 but look how much bigger AMT's BB is as opposed to Revell's. I also grabbed a set of 1/24 scale rocker covers from the Pro Stock Camaro kit that I've got for extra "bulk". They fit perfectly. Yeah..................a no brainer right? Another thing that I liked about AMT's BB is that it also comes with a bracket for that alternator so I don't have that "mysterious floating alternator" hanging off of the belt out there. Just as a side note and as a defense to those who are telling me that the Monogram Camaro has some severe dimensional and accuracy issues. Here is the Monogram Camaro body on the left and the Revell one to the right. First off I just don't see how a 1/24th scale model could be this far off in size difference................but that's just me. Secondly there ARE some serious differences in the body lines and curves throughout the body on the Monogram one. Wow! Still................this is all about sentiments so forward with my original intent I go..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Well Joe I finally got time to sit a minute and read through your build. How well I remember the camaro your rebuilding. Did a few my self way back when. For a kit with so many issues, your sure doing a good job of working a bunch of them out. Stay with it buddy. I'll be watching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 Thanks Jim and it's truly great seeing you around again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil Appetite Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Wow...thats a huge difference in scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Wow...thats a huge difference in scaleYeah, it's pretty bloated looking, even compared to some 1/24 diecast 1G Camaros I have. I recently bought an old Monogram glue bomb JUST to harvest the roof for a 1/25 '67 Impala-to-Biscayne conversion, and I don't think I'll have to widen (or lengthen) the roof at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbill Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 loving this! like the rest of you guys, i built this and the rampage versions in my youth, and have both of them again awaiting their turn at the bench keep on it Joe, looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Looking forward to the updates, Joe!Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Mike and Rich: Thanks for the comments and man you're right about that bloating there Rich. Hopefully I can "doll 'er up" enough to distract from that. lol . I'm not surprised at all about you using that big a## roof on a Biscayne. Tom: Cmon' with it bro! Thanks for the good word. Tim: Thanks buddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KWT Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Wow... good looking build so far there, Joe. Look forward to seeing it all come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Wow... good looking build so far there, Joe. Look forward to seeing it all come together. Man thanks Jeremy. Hopefully this thing keeps progressing..... I had what I call lots of progress. I'm back in the fight again after re-hashing the engine size ordeal and am back on the road with this puppy. First off this thing had a nasty mount hole in the oil pan for the Chevelle that it was supposed to go in so I had to fill that in with super glue, sand flush and smooth out:I've also acquired a decal sheet with a bunch of oil filter decals on it. Nice touch for the bottom end as well as the PE oil pan drain plug. I toned the engine paint down and brought out the molded in detail with an airbrushed coat of Tamiya Smoke.I carried the fuel pump over from the other engine but replaced the starter with the AMT offering because it had better details than the Revell starter did.I tried something new with the exhaust manifolds. I primed them in flat black and shot a very light coat of Alclad II Polished Aluminum on them to give them a true iron look. I was happy with the results but the pictures don't seem to capture the dark steel/ iron look that they actually are. Believe me, they aint this flashy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Nice work on manifolds Joe. I know what ya mean about pics not doing a project justice. Also you like that you figured out the hole in the oil pan. I do it the same way except mix the super glue with a little baking soda. It helps it dry even faster and makes it really easy to sand out. I got the same oil filter decals. Really nice decals and they go along way. So Im assuming your using the engine out of the AMT? You might have checked out the engine from the monogram 1/24th scale chevelle. Bet it would have matched up nicely scale wise. Just something to think about. Keep the progress posts coming my friend. Really enjoying watching it come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Thanks Jim. I appreciate the good word bud. Well folks. I haven't been on the forum as much as of late due to the fact that I've been trying to get something done on this puppy. It spent all week in the body shop having the emblems removed and all the imperfections taken care of. I primed it yesterday and it turned out perfect. Then something weird happened today when I applied the color. The sanded off SMOOTH emblems came back after the base coat???!!! What tha heck man? Here's what it did: In short ............what happened? I've stripped the paint because I got it too thick but want to go back with the same color. Help please? Using this Automotive paint that I got on ebay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I have a sneaking suspicion that you will be advised to apply a barrier coat of some kind, whether it be glue, acrylic floor polish or some kind of special primer.I have read Bill's posts regarding this kind of problem of ghosting after removing molded in emblems/features. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hall Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I've never had one of those kits, the proportions always looked wrong to me...too thick through the doors and quarters. I remember building the MPC '69s in the 80s, those weren't bad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 I have a sneaking suspicion that you will be advised to apply a barrier coat of some kind, whether it be glue, acrylic floor polish or some kind of special primer. I have read Bill's posts regarding this kind of problem of ghosting after removing molded in emblems/features. Thanks for the reply. A sealer maybe? I've never had one of those kits, the proportions always looked wrong to me...too thick through the doors and quarters. I remember building the MPC '69s in the 80s, those weren't bad.. I hear ya. This is my very first car build from when I was 12 years old though. Just gotta finish it you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hall Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Thanks for the reply. A sealer maybe? I hear ya. This is my very first car build from when I was 12 years old though. Just gotta finish it you know. Funny thing is, I built one of the Monogram 1/32nd '69 Camaros when I was about 8-9, it has the same proportions as the 1/24th... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Funny thing is, I built one of the Monogram 1/32nd '69 Camaros when I was about 8-9, it has the same proportions as the 1/24th... Yup. They obviously used the same masters for both kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I've never had one of those kits, the proportions always looked wrong to me...too thick through the doors and quarters. I remember building the MPC '69s in the 80s, those weren't bad..The MPC '69 Camaro is just as bad, but in completely different ways. All things considered, it probably looks better built, but it's still way wrong. I know, I've done five of them over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I have seen multiple users reference the use of Future to seal areas of molded details that have been removed, maybe one of them will speak up or you can post this issue in the questions thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 I forgot about the MPC version and totally didn't know about the 1/32 nd scale version. Learn something new everyday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 I have seen multiple users reference the use of Future to seal areas of molded details that have been removed, maybe one of them will speak up or you can post this issue in the questions thread. I may have to do that when I get back home and thanks for the heads up blunc. I am curious though. What is normally used as a paint sealer that'll stand up to this paint. I dunno if Future will stand up or not. I've never been up against anything like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Joe, what primer did you use? Is the automotive paint you are using lacquer based?Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 Joe, what primer did you use? Is the automotive paint you are using lacquer based?TimHeya Tim, I used Tamiya gray primer and yes sir it is a lacquer based automotive paint. However, from all the research I've dug up, Tamiya primer, I thought was supposed to be lacquer based as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Heya Tim, I used Tamiya gray primer and yes sir it is a lacquer based automotive paint. However, from all the research I've dug up, Tamiya primer, I thought was supposed to be lacquer based as well.Tamiya primer is lacquer based for sure Joe and it handles almost any paint you throw over it. I always sand off body emblems with models I use photo-etched emblems on and use Tamiya grey or white primer after and just before painting and never had a problem with ghosting, well not anymore. How many coats of primer did you apply? When I apply my primer coats I usually do 2 light coats 2 medium coats and 2 wet coats. let it dry really good between each coat and it should seal out the body work just fine. Also I never wet sand the primer coats until after the last coat has had a couple days to dry. Then I just give it a light wet sanding with 400 or even sometimes 600 grit sanding film before painting. One other thing buddy I figured out a long time ago, when you think you have the emblems sanded off good, give it a little more sanding. The darn things can be stubborn sometimes. But for the most part Tamiya primer should seal it just fine, you just might not got enough coats of it applied to do the job over the emblem areas properly. By the way, love the color you chose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Tamiya primer is lacquer based for sure Joe and it handles almost any paint you throw over it. I always sand off body emblems with models I use photo-etched emblems on and use Tamiya grey or white primer after and just before painting and never had a problem with ghosting, well not anymore. How many coats of primer did you apply? When I apply my primer coats I usually do 2 light coats 2 medium coats and 2 wet coats. let it dry really good between each coat and it should seal out the body work just fine. Also I never wet sand the primer coats until after the last coat has had a couple days to dry. Then I just give it a light wet sanding with 400 or even sometimes 600 grit sanding film before painting. One other thing buddy I figured out a long time ago, when you think you have the emblems sanded off good, give it a little more sanding. The darn things can be stubborn sometimes. But for the most part Tamiya primer should seal it just fine, you just might not got enough coats of it applied to do the job over the emblem areas properly. By the way, love the color you chose.Good info Jim and thanks for chiming in here pal. Currently in the "re-do" stage................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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