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A friend of mine has a collection of K100's that my family used to own. Some of them are still working, some are now out to pasture. I was over at his house taking pictures of them this summer and decided to build one of them. Here is the inspiration:

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I started with the new release of the Tyrone Malone papa truck, as this is similar to the year that I was going to model. I started by shortening the frame and adding some plumbing.

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I always hated the kit intake, so I made an 8" intake tube and cap that I now offer through Double Take Replicas. Next I added some spoke wheels and painted the chassis.

 

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I added a set of correct 8V92 valve covers, and a little weathering to the engine. Next I had to shorten the fuel tanks and scratch built some quarter fenders, mud flaps, and an exhaust.

 

2v2uW7K5rxAC2cR.jpg

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I really wish I had taken more pictures of this one while I was building. I had to cut the aerodyne roof off of the cab and scratch build a flat top. Then I had to shorten the cab to an 86" length. I also scratch built a new cab floor and interior to match the "splendor" interior that the real truck has. I added a Double Take Replicas gull wing bumper and 3D printed grille. The headlights came off of an AMT diamond reo kit, as the original kit ones were terrible. The kit step ladders were also modified, as the angle and step spacing just looked a little off as they were originally. I had Firebird Designs make some custom decals for me and am super happy with how they turned out. I still have a few more details to tie up, but here is how she sits now.

 

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You have a way with the KW my friend! Top notch work as always!! Looks great!!!

Two questions:

1. Is there a reason that you chose to shorten the cab of the Aerodyne verses using the AMT single bunk cab? Are there more differences than I realized?

2. When can I get some of those wheels??? :D

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Thanks everyone! Jeff, this will be at the Fulton show. I am not sure if I will have the trailer finished in time though, I am completely scratch building the tanker to go behind it.

 

Brian, I started with the Aerodyne kit mostly for the engine and the 8-bag suspension. It also comes with the correct doors, wider grille, and oil door located on the passenger's side, while the K123 kit is an older cab with a narrow grille, oil door in the front (next to the grille), and old style doors. I have updated a K123 kit before, but it is about the same amount of work either way. At the time the Papa truck was the cheaper kit to buy.

 

If I ever get caught up with projects, I would like to make new molds for those wheels and cast some more. The worst part is that they tear up molds fast, so I only get a couple sets of wheels out before the mold is trash. It is a lot of work for a little reward.

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1. Is there a reason that you chose to shorten the cab of the Aerodyne verses using the AMT single bunk cab? Are there more differences than I realized?

 

 

Brian, I started with the Aerodyne kit mostly for the engine and the 8-bag suspension. It also comes with the correct doors, wider grille, and oil door located on the passenger's side, while the K123 kit is an older cab with a narrow grille, oil door in the front (next to the grille), and old style doors. I have updated a K123 kit before, but it is about the same amount of work either way. At the time the Papa truck was the cheaper kit to buy.

 

 

This sort of goes with what Brian asked, but I'm just curious why you couldn't use the Revell K100 flat top for this? I know you have much more knowledge than me on those old KWs, and you always do outstanding work on them! 

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This sort of goes with what Brian asked, but I'm just curious why you couldn't use the Revell K100 flat top for this? I know you have much more knowledge than me on those old KWs, and you always do outstanding work on them! 

You can definitely use the Revell flat top to do the same thing. I am actually building this same truck as it was when it was new, using the Revell flat top K100. For that one I have shortened the cab, shortened the frame, swapped the engine, and scratch built an interior as well. It is about the same amount of work to get the model I want, but the AMT kit was cheaper to start with.

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Thanks everyone! Jeff, this will be at the Fulton show. I am not sure if I will have the trailer finished in time though, I am completely scratch building the tanker to go behind it.

 

Brian, I started with the Aerodyne kit mostly for the engine and the 8-bag suspension. It also comes with the correct doors, wider grille, and oil door located on the passenger's side, while the K123 kit is an older cab with a narrow grille, oil door in the front (next to the grille), and old style doors. I have updated a K123 kit before, but it is about the same amount of work either way. At the time the Papa truck was the cheaper kit to buy.

 

If I ever get caught up with projects, I would like to make new molds for those wheels and cast some more. The worst part is that they tear up molds fast, so I only get a couple sets of wheels out before the mold is trash. It is a lot of work for a little reward.

Thanks for the info! I have the Revell and the Papa truck, but have never compared the cabs to the single bunk. I would have eventually noticed the oil doors, but I guess that I've only dealt with old ones. I'm pretty sure that the one my dad drove had the door in front and I think it was a 79. Do you happen to know when the change was? Also, I'm guessing the grill was different on the 1:1s too like the later Freightliners, do you know when this change was as well? I hate to keep asking so much, but you seem to have a vast knowledge of these trucks.

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The Revell K100 and the Papa truck represent basically the same truck (year wise). The Revell version is a little more accurate and has some better details, but the AMT one can still make a nice model if you take your time. The wider grille accompanied a larger radiator, this was an option in the mid 70's, but was not very common until the late '70's. From about '78-'80 both widths of grille seem to appear almost an equal amount. By 1981 it seems that almost all K100's had the wider grille. The 110" cab came with what Kenworth called the VIT interior package, which was diamond pleated, while the 86" cab came with a simpler interior for many years. Eventually in the early 80's the VIT interior was available in the shorter cab as an upgrade option.

A 7" intake tube was standard for most engine options up through the 70's, with the exception of the V8 detroit engines. Trucks with a V8 detroit always came with an 8" intake tube. Around 1980 it seems that Kenworth went to the 8" intake as standard across the board. The intake AMT K123 kit is fairly accurate for the year and engine choice. The AMT Papa truck and Revell kits both attempted to represent an 8" intake, but they both just seem a little off to me.

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I have been making good headway on the tanker trailer. Here is the real trailer that I am modeling:

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The owner had a custom manifold made to make loading and unloading water easier.

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The landing gear was made using styrene square stock and some flat stock for the sand shoes. The handle was made by heating .040" styrene rod and bending it.

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I couldn't get my hands on a spring suspension, so I decided to make my own using flat stock and square tube for the axles. I still need to make the brake chambers and slack adjusters.

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The fenders were made using "V-groove sidinig" styrene sheet. I glued a .040"x.040" strip around the edges to give a rolled metal look.

2v2uGBWoyxAC2cR.jpg

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Wow !....I mean, WOW !.......incredible work KJ,.. superb job all around !   you have captured the look of the prototype perfectly.

 I thought I knew my way around trucks but, I never realized that there were so many different spotting features on those K 100's !

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Made some more progress on the tanker and sprayed a little primer last night.

 

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I made some crude brake chambers and slack adjusters. I should have spent more time on these, but they will barely be seen once the wheels are on.

 

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The step ladder was made from .060" styrene rod and .080" styrene square stock. The catwalk at the bottom was a resin deck plate that I had bought from Moluminum a while back.

 

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I used solid acrylic rod for most of the plumbing. This gives nice bends when heated with a lighter. For the connector ends that are seen open, I used styrene tubing and turned the tip of it in my power drill while rubbing against it with a sanding stick to give it a little more defined shape.

 

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For the valve levers, I used .040" square stock and dipped the tip in a dab of elmers glue to give it a bit of a ball at the end.

 

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