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Bernard Kron

My bare metal steel technique for plastic and resin surfaces

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Phil Dauphinee (Phildaupho) just posted a nice Deuce 3-window coupe which is a replica of one of The  Rodder's Journal's earliest baremetal features. It was done using Testors Steel non-buffing metalizer. I didn't want to hijack Phil's thread but it reminded me that over the past couple of years I've developed a baremetal steel technique which I think gives quite convincing results. So I thought I would share it here.

I start by painting the model in a standard medium colored silver such as Tamiya TS83 Metallic Silver or in my case my current favorite generic silver, Duplicolor DAL 1679 Metallic Silver (the cheap stuff that comes in the tall can - fear not, it lays down beautifully). Finish your paint job to whatever level of quality you feel is appropriate and then rub a metalizer powder like Kosutte Gin Sang over it. The smoother and more highly polished your basic paint job is, the more uniform and less variegated will be the finish. In the case of die stamped bodies like the bare metal TRJ example this finish is  quite uniform. But the nice thing about the metalizer powder is that it will bring out any "grinder" or "file marks" you care to include. The result is quite realistic, I think. Here are two examples, the first over styrene plastic and the second over resin:

This is a bellypan. It has the scratches and wear marks you would expect from the bottom of a car. Other than the scratches and dings which were applied after the paint job was completed using medium fine grit sandpapers, the actual finish was quite smooth. The metalizer powder application is fairly light which accounts for the bright steel look. For the light surface rust I first considered where that rust would appear (along edges or in crevices which would trap moisture), then added rust colored weathering powders to those areas. Overall dirt was added with a dark soot weathering powder.

DSCF6231_web.jpg

This second one is what a smooth, scratch free paint job looks like. The discoloration of bare steel is established by applying a heavier dose of metalizer powder. Using a lighter application of the metalizer powder would result in a less greenish or tarnished look. No additional weathering powders were used. This is straight Kosutte Ginsang.

DSCF5239_web.jpg

I hope you find this approach useful.
B.

Edited by Bernard Kron

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I thought I would bump this because of questions and comments on my bare metal Deuce among my models in 2019 recap.

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Posted (edited)
39 minutes ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

I'd like to know where to get that powder... can't seem to find it anywhere...

Work Kosutte Gin Sang has always been hard to find. I got mine from several years ago from Hobbylink Japan, and even then I had to wait on backorder for several weeks. I just did a web search on the stuff and drew a blank. It is very likely it's no longer available, so I'm glad you asked. So I then searched at Hobbylink Japan and they default to C1 Metalizer (see: C1 Models C1 Metalizer and HobbyLink Japan C1 Metalizer ). I have known about C1 for quite some time and it appears to be a good substitute. My original container of Kosutte Gin San is still more than half full after several years of use and will last several more. I suspect that with C1 Metalizer you will get the same results and it will last many years. I use my Gin San for other things besides bare metal effects including enhancing or changing the nature of other metallic paints such as gunmetal, chrome of bronze paints. It definitely worth experimenting with because it can yield some very realistic effects.

Edited by Bernard Kron

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3 minutes ago, Bernard Kron said:

Wave Kosutte Gin Sang has always been hard to find. I got mine from several years ago from Hobbylink Japan, and even then I had to wait on backorder for several weeks. I just did a web search on the stuff and drew a blank. It is very likely it's no longer available, so I'm glad you asked. So I then searched at Hobbylink Japan and they default to C1 Metalizer (see: C1 Models C1 Metalizer and HobbyLink Japan C1 Metalizer ). I have known about C1 for quite some time and it appears to be a good substitute. My original container of Kosutte Gin San is still more than half full after several years of use and will last several more. I suspect that with C1 Metalizer you will get the same results and it will last many years. I use my Gin San for other things besides bare metal effects including enhancing or changing the nature of other metallic paints such as gunmetal, chrome of bronze paints. It definitely worth experimenting with because it can yield some very realistic effects.

Thank you for the info and the quick response, I'm gonna check into that right now!

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Just now, LL3 Model Worx said:

Thank you for the info and the quick response, I'm gonna check into that right now!

Your welcome. One correction, the original Gin Sang product was called Work Kosutte Gin Sang. You answered so quickly I was unable to correct it. But I have now! LOL...

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I have the forum right in my pocket so I can check frequently for updates.

That's good to know.

Your work looks exceptional btw!

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Interesting technique, Bernard. Thanks for sharing.

I have never seen Kosutte Gin Sang in person, but I remember a few years ago it was a topic of interest on the SA forum, and I was curious about it then. Using the link you posted above, I checked out the C1 Metalizer. Looks like interesting stuff, so I ordered some. However, I have a product that I bought in a craft store about 25 years ago that seems very similar (the brand name escapes me right now). In fact, I bought two little bottles, one with a silvery powder and one with a gold powder. In the ensuing years the small bottle of silvery powder appears to have oxidised,  having darkened and lost much of its brilliance and almost seeming a bit graphite like (like fine, powdered pencil lead). Have you noticed anything like this happening with your Kosutte Gin Sang?

When I bought the stuff, I had no idea what to do with it, but it seemed like it might have a purpose. I figured I could add it to paint in the manner of pearl powders, but never tried that. I really like the effect of rubbing it on a painted surface. Another surface sheen/texture product to keep in the arsenal. Cheers.

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I've used the c1 powder and it works quite well. I haven't managed to get the chrome effect they show on their website but I haven't tried it over many colours yet. Over black it gives a nice steel colour. I also read on the c1 site that the op's product is toxic while c1 is non toxic, but I dont know how true that is but since their fine powders I'd guess neither is very good for you. The c1 kit comes with masks, cloths and applicators

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Posted (edited)

Where do you get the metalizer ging sang at

Edited by NothingAsFineAsaW9

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57 minutes ago, NothingAsFineAsaW9 said:

Where do you get the metalizer ging sang at

See this prior post on this thread:

On 1/4/2020 at 4:10 PM, Bernard Kron said:

Work Kosutte Gin Sang has always been hard to find. I got mine several years ago from Hobbylink Japan, and even then I had to wait on backorder for several weeks. I just did a web search on the stuff and drew a blank. It is very likely it's no longer available, so I'm glad you asked. So I then searched at Hobbylink Japan and they default to C1 Metalizer (see: C1 Models C1 Metalizer and HobbyLink Japan C1 Metalizer ). I have known about C1 for quite some time and it appears to be a good substitute. My original container of Kosutte Gin San is still more than half full after several years of use and will last several more. I suspect that with C1 Metalizer you will get the same results and it will last many years. I use my Gin San for other things besides bare metal effects including enhancing or changing the nature of other metallic paints such as gunmetal, chrome of bronze paints. It definitely worth experimenting with because it can yield some very realistic effects.

 

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