mrmike Posted May 2, 2018 Posted May 2, 2018 (edited) This is my project for the Classic Plastic Model Club Exposition "Club Challenge" '48 Or Older Street Rods. I am building a '32 Ford 5-Window Coupe with full fenders and the 392 CI Hemi engine with steel wheels, trim rings, and hubcaps and wide whitewall tires. I am going to attempt painting the wide whites with an acrylic flat white paint through my Badger Universal 360 Airbrush. My kit is the Revell '32 Ford 5-Window Coupe #85-4228. My body paint will be Testors One Coat Lacquer Lime Ice #18350. The interior will be white with embossing powder for carpets and painted with Polly Scale Burlington North Green F414209. So far, I got the basic Hemi assembled and ready for some Mopar Street Hemi Orange Engine Enamel and the body has been sanded for mold lines and ready for primer. More to come... Edited June 29, 2018 by mrmike
mrmike Posted May 6, 2018 Author Posted May 6, 2018 Thanks Marty and Dennis! I had painted the 392 CI Hemi with Hemi Orange Engine Enamel, but I changed my mind since 392 CI Hemis were painted gold or a similar color. I went with the gold since it will match with the Lime Ice better and the engine would be more period correct. I'll be using a M.A.D. pre-wired distributor. More to come...
spike morelli Posted May 19, 2018 Posted May 19, 2018 Something to ponder...……….In real life, back in the 50's and 60's when Hotrodders were swapping in Firepowers to early Fords, many builders used a trans adapter that not only mated the Hemi to an early Ford trans, but also moved the starter from it's stock location on the driver's side, ( where it interfered with the Ford steering box ), to the passenger side of the block, upside-down. Cragar and Offenhauser for sure made these bellhousings I know. Anyway, an interesting detail to emulate when building a "period" style model, for those into it.
mrmike Posted May 19, 2018 Author Posted May 19, 2018 That is something to ponder...if you are doing a period correct hot rod. If I was to relocate the starter to the right (passenger) side of the engine, I would have to relocate the oil filter on my 392 CI Hemi. I think I'll just leave things where they are. Thanks for the pondering!
mrmike Posted May 26, 2018 Author Posted May 26, 2018 With the wife and her niece watching movies today, I hunkered down in the model cave to work on my projects for the afternoon. I got the '32 5-Window into a good coat of Testors Lime Ice One Coat Lacquer. There's a lot of flake in this paint! Now to let it dry! I still haven't finished the engine yet. I need to install the distributor and run the leads to the heads and make an alternator support so the alternator is not hanging in the air. More to come...
espo Posted May 26, 2018 Posted May 26, 2018 Your paint job looks great. Which trunk lid are you going to use?
mrmike Posted May 27, 2018 Author Posted May 27, 2018 Thank you David! I'm using the smooth trunk lid.
NOBLNG Posted May 27, 2018 Posted May 27, 2018 Lookin' good! I have a couple of these, but I'm not sure how I want to build them yet.
mrmike Posted May 27, 2018 Author Posted May 27, 2018 Thank you Greg! I wasn't sure on how to build this one until I started looking at the other Classic Plastic Model Club builders and at pictures on-line. That's when I decided on full-fendered with wide whitewalls and a Hemi.
mrmike Posted May 29, 2018 Author Posted May 29, 2018 I fired up the paint booth this morning for a clear coat session. Three coats of Testors Wet Look Clear. I found an alternative color for the interior. I masked off the seat and door panels to airbrush a couple coats of Polly Scale Burlington Northern Green. More to come...
66belair Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 That is looking superb! I my self am building a 32 3 window with the flathead from the sedan kit.
mrmike Posted June 3, 2018 Author Posted June 3, 2018 Sounds like a nice project, Mike! I'm back on the '32 5 Window Coupe for today. Cranked up the paintbooth and painted the rear axle, drive shaft and steering box and shaft with Alclad II Gloss Black and then with Alclad II Chrome. I started work on the frame. I added a fuel line from the tank to the frame where it won't be seen. I also added the transmission cross member and noticed all the spots not covered by paint. Out came a touchup brush and some Lime Ice Lacquer. I got started on the interior with some assembly. I need to finish the dash and install that into the interior. More to come...
shaunmza Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 I am surprised to see you painting the parts while on the tree. I have seen other people here on the forum saying its less effort prepping and painting off the tree. Do you find your method effective and how do you touch op the points where you cut the parts off? That's a nice green by the way
mrmike Posted June 4, 2018 Author Posted June 4, 2018 Thank you guys! 5 hours ago, shaunmza said: I am surprised to see you painting the parts while on the tree. I have seen other people here on the forum saying its less effort prepping and painting off the tree. Do you find your method effective and how do you touch op the points where you cut the parts off? That's a nice green by the way I find that if I leave some of my parts on the sprues, it is easier to prep and paint them tan to remove them. I can't be bothered to remove all my parts from the sprues, prep them, remount them on something, and then paint them. To me, this just makes for more work. After removing the parts from the sprue, I touch them up with a fine detailing brush and a little paint.
mrmike Posted June 5, 2018 Author Posted June 5, 2018 (edited) I have finished the interior. Normally, I would have painted the coil over shocks with Alclad II Chrome, but these are the only two items I have to be chromed. Instead, I used my Molotow 2 mm Liquid Chrome pen on the rear coil over shocks. I was going to paint the mufflers red and call them Cherry Bomb mufflers, but a Hemi would need a quieter muffler and I painted them the same as the pipes. More to come... Edited June 5, 2018 by mrmike
mrmike Posted June 8, 2018 Author Posted June 8, 2018 I thought I would do a couple of mockups to check my work. I mockup the body, frame, fenders, hood, and grille surround. I'm still working on the rear axle. I got the brake line on and the rear coil-overs are set for assembly with the frame.I pressed the wheels and wheel backs into the tires after I applied the decals. I was told that I should have applied the decals after pressing the wheels and wheelbacks into the tires. Hmmm, maybe if I had know about this prior... More to come...
mrmike Posted June 17, 2018 Author Posted June 17, 2018 I got the distributor mounted to the block and plug boots on the wires. Now to wire up the engine. I started on chassis assembly by installing the suspension. A quick mock up. More to come...
mrmike Posted June 18, 2018 Author Posted June 18, 2018 I didn't like the decals I had applied to the tires, so as an experiment I removed the decals and sprayed some Tamiya X-2 Flat White through my Badger Universal 360 Airbrush. A little cleanup and touchup and I may go with these. Should I spray some flat or semi gloss clear over the tires to protect the paint? I attached the fenders to the chassis. Although I haven't attached the tires, I think the stance should be about where I want it. More to come...
Mr. Metallic Posted June 19, 2018 Posted June 19, 2018 This is looking good. That color really pops! Try Tamiya white primer next time you're spraying whitewalls. It has less of a tendency to crack over time on the flexible tires, and has the right sheen.
Ich_Will Posted June 19, 2018 Posted June 19, 2018 Burlington Northern Green...not just for locomotives anymore. Looking great!
mrmike Posted June 19, 2018 Author Posted June 19, 2018 3 hours ago, Ich_Will said: Burlington Northern Green...not just for locomotives anymore. Looking great! Darn right William! 4 hours ago, Mr. Metallic said: This is looking good. That color really pops! Try Tamiya white primer next time you're spraying whitewalls. It has less of a tendency to crack over time on the flexible tires, and has the right sheen. Thanks for the tip Craig!
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