Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum
Scale-Master

Lola T-70 Mk III

Recommended Posts

The last part of fitting the door skins to the openings was to add the gaps at the bottoms of the doors.

G2muea1.jpg

DiGV5Xo.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice tidy joins between the doors and the body...... very smooth lines for this car.

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark...this build brings back fond memories of this kit. It was 1970 and I was home on leave from the military. On a field trip to Auto World in Scranton Pa I bought this kit from Oscar himself. It was built shortly after I returned to my duty station.  I still have it and a replacement as well. At the time it was state of the art and i never paid much attention to the fit problems that you have. I will follow this build closely as I want to do my extra kit as a spyder. Don't know of anybody making a resin rear deck...do you?  As a tip you might want to consider inflating your tires with urethane foam. Gorilla glue mixed with water will do it. They tend to flatten with time.  We have a mutual friend who has sent me pictures of some of your incredible builds. They are awe inspiring.  Now I  get to see  the methods of your talent. Thanks for sharing. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips Rich.  I don't think this one will have the potential tire problems as the original issue, (mine's from '97) and the tire material seems different from some of the kits I have from that earlier era.  They even sand differently.  But I might shore them up with foam as these projects tend to gain a good bit of weight compared to the stock ones and I have had some sidewall cracking issues over the long term on other cars. 

I'm not up on what's available for alternate versions as I just fabricate what ever I want. But I can see making it into a spyder could eliminate some of the body fit issues.

Care to send me a PM with the name of our mutual friend?  (I have my suspicions based on your state...)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The little winglets are shown on the box art but are not included in the kit.  Not a big deal for this project, but I wanted some on it nonetheless.  I hand cut a pair from sheet brass and slotted the nose to accept them.

6H81gCt.jpg

0lKbX7T.jpg

XG1vjCz.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark, interesting that Tamiya left them off.  Almost every photo of the real deal i can find has them.  They must have had a problem with keeping the front on the ground.  Good catch!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Then I cut and annealed a couple strips of brass, shaped them to the fender and curvature of the winglets and soldered them in place for the mounting flanges.

rDVtCzP.jpg

sQOqg5h.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started adding the rear spoiler fairings.  Sheet styrene instead of brass, but installed in slots like the front winglets.

6l8e6kK.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I added the top edge of the rear spoiler(s) by sawing a notch into the existing peak to accept some strip styrene and fairing it in.

wpXD3Kz.jpg

EImjP9i.jpg

45OltOi.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautifully sculpted winglet's and rear spoiler extensions Mark.  They really add to the perfect body work mod's you've made.  Gorgeous car even in primer and can't wait to see this one in color.  cheers, tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Tim!

 

The kit engine is a SB Chevy, but it doesn't quite look right on its own and it builds up differently than a "normal" American kit.   (Probably due to it being designed to house an electric motor.)  Plus the heads were molded to the block halves and the rear of the block is a separate piece creating interesting seams.

I borrowed the engine parts from the Monogram '69 Z/28 Camaro kit and made molds then cast resin copies. 

jjIlT5k.jpg

I cut off the oil filter, bellhousing & engine mounts from the oil pan, and the transmission & bellhousing from the block halves as well as the fuel pump from the front of the block.  The timing tab was also removed from the timing cover and the bolts were cut off and holes drilled in their place.

X9v0ORq.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Trevor!  Maybe you can come up on the 28th for the CFAC show on the 28th?  (Info is listed here in the contests section.)

 

The rear of the block didn't look bad when it had a bellhousing molded to it, (and was going to be hidden by a firewall), but it turns out it is not at all symmetrical.  Since the rear of this engine will be very exposed when in the car I had to rework it.  I added 0.020 sheet styrene and reworked it.

HuVneoi.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,

Tried to PM you, but didn't go through.

I'll give it my best shot to come up, can't commit right now though.

Trevor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sent you a PM Trevor.  Hopefully it went through.

 

I drew the valve covers (copied from my real car) in SolidWorks.  I'll have Fraxional "grow" them.

 JB4F6Ta.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark...lookit what I was up close and personal with today. This was taken at the Watkins Glen Vintage Gran Prix. Can send you the rest to your PM.  This one is a MKIIB so it is a little different than the one you are modeling.

DSC06677.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Briiliant idea, Mark to use the Monogram '69 Z/28 Camaro engine to produce moulds and casts in resin, given that the Lola kit engine was made to house an electric motor. Working on the engine for this model car will be just as satisfying for you as working on the car itself. Excellent detail work going on here!

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sure Rich, I'd love to see more photos.

Thanks David!  

 

I also made the bellhousing in SolidWorks since the kit item wasn't a fit or match for the new engine.  Again Fraxional is my go-to 3D printer.  This is will be a stand-in for mocking up the engine mounts and rear suspension and might get modified later.

rirNSYy.jpg

oUvDToJ.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The bolt-on rear spoiler is made of brass.  I hand cut two identical pieces from 0.010 sheet.  Then drilled 19 holes in each and scored one side of both for the upper "tabs".

CKauf5x.jpg

The upper "tabs" were bent using an angle template for continuity.

KeVs202.jpg

Then I soldered them together.  This is the rear side.

kR0VQDp.jpg

I acid cut a recess that will accept a clear spoiler element/window. This is the front side.

W3wvMTt.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Precision. Nothing but pure precision.  Gotta marvel at the work you do Mark.  cheers, tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started building the transaxle so it might be ready when I get the bellhousing from Fraxional, (the 3D printing service I've been using). 

First up was to cut off and drill out all the bolts, studs, drain plugs… and fill some sink marks.

kVbmj6h.jpg

Edited by Scale-Master

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...