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Lola T-70 Mk III

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Thanks Håkan.

I drew up a new Hewland transaxle rear cover because there was a sink mark where some of the lettering was.

Since the kit part had HEWLANG molded in with that sink mark, it only made sense to fix both issues this way.

I7yE3NR.jpg

I planned ahead for the mounting of the part too.

6iHtpVd.jpg

 

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The resin heads I cast have been reworked by removing all the molded on "bolts" and drilling out for the aluminum replacements I'll machine.  The spark plug holes have been relocated to their proper locations too.  The exhaust ports have been hogged out and the holes for the accessory mounting brackets added.

(The white head is the stock Camaro one.)

ALhsGGP.jpg

QISHKpp.jpg

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I am continuing to follow this Lola build, Mark...... with great interest !

David

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Good to hear David.

 

I used the Lola kit header tubes but had to make the ends that go into the head smaller diameter.  Originally they were a constant diameter the same as the tubes.  I made a tool from an old collet to uniformly cut those ends down to a 0.13 diameter.

vAquW50.jpg

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New header flange also designed in SolidWorks.  Heavy duty 3/8 inch thick flange for the 1- 7/8 diameter big tube headers to come.

PgoCwyP.jpg

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Thanks Trevor!

 

I started working over the Z/28 water pump I copied in resin, but I realized it wasn't the best choice for this application let alone an accurate piece even for what it is supposed to represent.  The shorter Corvette pump with the over sized bearing was more appropriate even though in the end it will hardly be visible, and it will buy me more space since the engine I'm using is longer than the kit provided one.

The Tamiya water pump actually was closer looking to the short style even though it didn't measure out or and has some "interesting" details.

Here's the Lola kit part.

UDIXatc.jpg

Having a real pump at my feet made it a lot easier to modify the part into a more accurate rendition.  It still needs the mounting hardware and heater hose fitting to be machined and the sand cast texture to be added.

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I also started reworking the harmonic balancer.  I shaved it down to a proper 8" diameter and installed a brass sleeve.  I also cut the timing mark into it.

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QQpIuse.jpg

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I machined a billet aluminum water pump pulley.  It's dual & deep grooved so I can run the same belt set up I have on my real car and add an alternator to this car.

KtJyFxx.jpg

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I installed more magnets to attach the heads to the block.

e9JjcGb.jpg

The four holes on each head where the valve train would be are to mount the valve covers.

 

I got the bellhousing I designed back from Fraxional.  They did an excellent job of 3D growing it.  Other than removing the supports on the face that mounts to the engine, this is how it came to me.  A tiny bit of clean up is in order as it is not the higher resolution they offer.  (It was provided as a "test shot" but it is good enough to use.)

ez2vXjM.jpg

 

It aligns to the block with two dowel pins like the real ones.

gtqYBaL.jpg

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Since the exhaust port spacing on my heads is different on than the Tamiya parts I had to modify the rear of the inboard tubes to meet the collectors.

I used the header flanges I drew that were printed by Fraxional and fitted the tubes to them and the heads.

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And they are mounted into the heads with magnets…

5gap8QT.jpg

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Removable front engine cover for the interior.  Since the engine I'm building is larger than the kit provided item, and I'm using a dual belt pulley set-up, I had to make room for the water pump pulley.

Before:

zTbTssl.jpg

After:

iL3TddK.jpg

3NJLz4O.jpg

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Nice work on the engine Mark. Why are you using magnets to hold the heads on? Is it to test fit items? Will they be glued together upon final assembly?

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2 hours ago, Reeves Racing said:

Nice work on the engine Mark. Why are you using magnets to hold the heads on? Is it to test fit items? Will they be glued together upon final assembly?

I also noticed that Mark is increasingly using these small magnets for the assembly of his Lola T-70 MK III, which is actually a very clever method of assembly, but I too wondered if the magnets are permanent fixtures, or will glue be used later?

David

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I don't get the use of magnets either so I hope Mark will explain it to us. 

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The magnets are utilized for mocking up the parts for measurements and test fitting and so they can be taken apart and painted (much later) knowing they will fit the same after painting.  And in some cases to make moving parts align the same way repeatedly.  Many parts have to be assembled at once to see how and where other parts will fit.  Cementing them together with an adhesive strong enough to hold them without shifting creates other problems that I don't have to deal with using magnets and it wards off a stacked tolerance situation too.

Most of the sub-assemblies with magnets will be permanently cemented after painting and final detailing.

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I love it Mark. You are a true Scale-Master.

I just bought (pre-ordered) the reissue of the Tamiya Porsche 934 and I hope I can make it look close to what you do.

I'll be using your Lola as a guide for getting that high level of detail. 

Thanks for sharing.

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I am awaiting the arrival of a resin kit from the USA, which is a '67 Pontiac Bonneville 4-door in 1:24 scale. When this arrives here in UK, it will hopefully be converted into a '68 Pontiac Parisienne 4-door if I can build on the inspiration that I get from following your excellent work, Mark.

David

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

The magnets are utilized for mocking up the parts for measurements and test fitting and so they can be taken apart and painted (much later) knowing they will fit the same after painting.  And in some cases to make moving parts align the same way repeatedly.  Many parts have to be assembled at once to see how and where other parts will fit.  Cementing them together with an adhesive strong enough to hold them without shifting creates other problems that I don't have to deal with using magnets and it wards off a stacked tolerance situation too.

Most of the sub-assemblies with magnets will be permanently cemented after painting and final detailing.

When I need to keep parts aligned, yet separate them for painting or complex assemblies, I pin them. If feasible, I put the parts together then drill through both assembled parts. For pins I use 0.020" brass rod (or sometimes thinner).  I glue a length of the rod into the hole in one of the parts. That allows for precise reassembly when I come to that task.

Magnets are a clever idea, but since I mostly work in 1:24 or 1:43 scales, the magnets would be too large to be used for alignment of most engine parts.  But they woudl work for aligning and holding car bodies. to the chassis or frame.

Edited by peteski

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Thanks for the explanation Mark, now I get it. 👍

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I'm honored to hear you guys are using some of my techniques.

I still use pins to aid in alignment, the magnets work well for replacing adhesives. 

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