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16 minutes ago, RichCostello said:

OK, I'd never heard that before.

Google Jeep body designations and click on the quadratec site. You will get a list and description of them all. I would link if if knew how to on this iPad.?

Edited by NOBLNG
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I just did some checking here. CJ 45-86. YJ 86-95. TJ 96-06. JK 07-14. JL current.  the end of the JK and the start of the JL is funny on Wiki not sure of the dates on those. 

Rich living here just north of the Plant that makes these I had no Idea of the models and year difference also until the last few years. 

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I remember the older Jeeps being referred to as CJ-5, or CJ-7s(I had a couple of these). Since then, I don't recall hearing any Jeeps identified by these letter designations, but only as Wrangler or Rubicon, or whatever. So, now I know better.

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I fabbed up a makeshift t/c adapter on the drill press out of evergreen and stole the 205 transfer case from the Moebius F-100 kit. I boxed the front section of the frame with 0.010 styrene, since it can now be seen with the hood open. I fiddled last night for quite a while trying to figure out how to hold the engine and trans in place while making some kind of mounts. I came up with this idea this morning when I realized the top of the intake manifold is pretty much level with the top of the fenders. ? I was worried for a bit about the starter being in the way of the front driveshaft, but it looks like there is plenty of clearance. Likewise, I should have lots of room for a radiator and cooling fan. I guess I would not have had to remove the skid plate since I don’t really need to move it forward, but it sure does make it easier to work on.?

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by NOBLNG
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On 4/11/2020 at 11:31 AM, goldfinger said:

Great minds think alike! I've been tinkering with this idea for a while . We should compare results when we are done!

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Looks real nice...almost like mine!? I imagine you stretched the frame also? Do you have a build thread on it?

Edited by NOBLNG
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Well I got the engine mounted. I also built another crossmember under the t/c adapter. These mounts weren’t easy because the tabs on the engine are staggered front to rear and at different heights!?   If I do another engine swap I will grind them off if they are not nice and put my own tabs on...or make a motor plate.

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I added the lip up along the fenders for the hood to sit over and with a little trimming, managed to get the Commando inner fenders to fit.

I didn’t like the rear driveline angle, so I cut and rotated the rear diff, and fabbed a new driveshaft. For a first attempt it came out looking better than I expected! That said, I may just re-do them, now that I have a better idea how.

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Here's an article I did over a decade ago, for making driveshafts any length.  Keep the plastic one together while thinning each end to slip into the tubing, this makes it easier to handle before you cut off the ends. I make it in 2 pieces of tubing so it's slightly adjustable in length, that way you can have the diff and transfer case or transmission both glued in place before glueing one end in, then stretching it to glue the other end.

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Edited by dino246gt
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Thanks Dennis.

I will look for some tubing for this trick. Drilling a hole straight down the solid styrene, even a little ways, is tough. I do need a double cardan joint at the top so I will check all my other 4x4 kits to see if any have one that looks better than my scratch job!?

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On 4/12/2020 at 4:07 PM, NOBLNG said:

Looks real nice...almost like mine!? I imagine you stretched the frame also? Do you have a build thread on it?

No I have been lazy about posting my builds. I did stretch the frame. now i am fussing with the floorpan. I stop and start on this project , as i get frustrated!

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1 hour ago, goldfinger said:

No I have been lazy about posting my builds. I did stretch the frame. now i am fussing with the floorpan. I stop and start on this project , as i get frustrated!

I know what you mean about the frustration! I have at least 3 builds going on at the same time so I can walk away when needed.

this is my first and about the fourth attempt at a rear drive shaft. I am happy with the brass one. Thanks to Dennis for the idea!

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I made a radiator mount on the backside of the grill from styrene stock. The Commando radiator was just a little too wide to fit so I made a custom “aluminum “ one using parts from a ‘57 Chevy and mounted it on pins. I added a pusher fan that I cast from resin and sanded down till all the slots were opened up. I also cut off the two Revell grill mounts and made one central one like the 1:1’s have.

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8 hours ago, 1930fordpickup said:

Looking good Greg

 

7 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

I like the driveshaft, and radiator details.

Thanks Guys. I am just trying to expand my skills a bit. This is my first real attempt at scratch building or kit-bashing. It won’t be any contest winner for sure, but I’m having fun with it.?

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On 4/10/2020 at 1:34 PM, 1930fordpickup said:

 the end of the JK and the start of the JL is funny on Wiki not sure of the dates on those. 

 

JK production and JL production overlapped for a year. In 2018, you could order both the new and the old body style.

 

That could be why there's some funny info.

 

Kind of like how for the 2019 and 2020 model years  you can buy both the new and old body Ram 1500.

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6 hours ago, iamsuperdan said:

JK production and JL production overlapped for a year. In 2018, you could order both the new and the old body style.

 

That could be why there's some funny info.

 

Kind of like how for the 2019 and 2020 model years  you can buy both the new and old body Ram 1500.

Thanks for clearing that up Dan. 

Edited by 1930fordpickup
missed a word
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