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1974 Camaro , continued


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Thanks guys I just need to round the spokes a little. They shouldn't be flat when you look at them. Might need to add some half round strips to them. Might be easier then trying to round them with a sanding stick. Hopefully make them look more cohesive, as well.

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Edited by MarkJ
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The rear tires I found for this build were the right diameter but .040 inches too narrow. So I need to widen them. The pictures below shows the process.  The last picture shows a wheel with half round strip added to the spokes. It should make the wheels look more unified.

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On 7/24/2021 at 2:33 PM, MarkJ said:

Got the wheels pretty much finished. Just wanted to put some gray surface primer on them to make the final adjustments on them. The top left one was the first one I did, so it will need the most adjustment to it. First one is always the roughest.

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Wheels look 👀 outstanding!

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Interesting work on the tyres and wheels there, Mark........ The Shoe Goo product looks to be ideal for this kind of work, and I don't think this product is available here in England......... I have made use of Halfords Rubberised Black, aerosol spray paint, which produces a really nice finish on the wide race tyres that I am currently working on for the Red Bull F1 car.  ( the wheels and tyres are 3D printed by myself ).

Keep up the good work !

David

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1 hour ago, Anglia105E said:

Interesting work on the tyres and wheels there, Mark........ The Shoe Goo product looks to be ideal for this kind of work, and I don't think this product is available here in England......... I have made use of Halfords Rubberised Black, aerosol spray paint, which produces a really nice finish on the wide race tyres that I am currently working on for the Red Bull F1 car.  ( the wheels and tyres are 3D printed by myself ).

Keep up the good work !

David

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You can find it at skateboard shops in the uk, make sure to ask for the black version as it comes in clear also

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Thanks, Carl. This rear spoiler has been eating my lunch. Be glad when I finally finish the body so I can finally try the brush painting and see how that works. At least it will be a one tone paint job, so I wont have to mask.

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Thanks,  Ray and Don. The taillight lenses are done. I just need to post them. The key to those is to color them from the inside with clear red paint. Makes them look more like an actual lens. The backup lamps are decals behind the clear plastic, just glued in place with plastic windshield adhesive that turns clear when it dries.

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A great builder on another site, David Bogard told me that I might want to consider using a testors silver paint pen to do the chrome trim on my models. hobby lobby no longer sells them so I found what I thought were 4 different pens to compare their quality. Turns out number 1 and 4 below are the same pens, just different sizes. I tried the pens on a white piece of styrene just to see how they looked, and how long they took to dry. Number 2 turned out to have the best overall look of the three different pens. I know a lot of people like the molotow chrome pens but I haven't had much luck with them. Even after a long time drying if I touch the surface they dulled badly for me. Number 2 below does not lose its glossiness if you let it dry 24 hours. i tried it on the trim of the tailights I made and was pretty pleased with the results. I don't know how it will react when future is applies to it but I'm thinking it will be okay. i'm going to try it on all the chrome trim on this model like the windshield and back glass trim .

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Those pens look pretty good, Mark...... and especially the Deco Color pen. I tend to use both Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen and Bare Metal Foil on a single build. The Molotow pens are good if you leave the chrome ink for 24 hours at least to dry, and I have found that they apply best over a high gloss surface. By far the most successful application has been liquid chrome pen over Yacht Varnish...... the yacht varnish needs a good 24 hours drying before the molotow pen can be smoothly ' stroked ' on. Although it is a pen, I find it helps to kind of brush it on, in terms of the motion..... that's how it feels !

David

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13 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Those pens look pretty good, Mark...... and especially the Deco Color pen. I tend to use both Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen and Bare Metal Foil on a single build. The Molotow pens are good if you leave the chrome ink for 24 hours at least to dry, and I have found that they apply best over a high gloss surface. By far the most successful application has been liquid chrome pen over Yacht Varnish...... the yacht varnish needs a good 24 hours drying before the molotow pen can be smoothly ' stroked ' on. Although it is a pen, I find it helps to kind of brush it on, in terms of the motion..... that's how it feels !

David

David, the main reason I want to go with a paint pen is  because the quality of the bmf has really gone down lately. It doesn't stick very good anymore . I have seen others complain about this too. As far as the molowtow chrome  goes, I have waited a week for it to dry and if I handle a part I used it on it dulls badly. it goes from chrome to a dull aluminum finish. This deco color pen is actually a paint pen that does actually dry eventually. I also like the deco pen because it has a chisel tip which works really well on a thin body moulding like a rain gutter. also if you get a little on the body you can scrape it off with a #11 blade and hit it with some future and you're good to go. Thanks for your reply.

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Mark, thank you for doing this research. I definitely will try this when I start building again next winter. I was looking for an alternative to brush painting trim with my hands being less stable as time passes...

I look forward to future progress on this fascinating build of your's.

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