Nostalgia Fuel Dragster--Blower Manifold (01/28/23)

[Straightliner59]

I want to clarify that the torch needn't be MAPP gas, it's just what I have, on hand. The torch does, however, need to be large enough to heat a significant area of sheet. I'm pondering a propane torch, with a fan tip, but, it's not critical, since I've been using the MAPP gas torch for over ten years.

[Straightliner59]

Once the aluminum is annealed, I cut out the rough outline of the panel. I used a punch from a set I got at Harbor Freight, to punch the rounded opening for the diff. An added advantage of using the punch, for this, is that you end up with small, slightly domed discs of aluminum. These look like they'd make excellent headlamp covers for a 1/32 scale model!  Next, I straighten the edges with a 6" mill bastard, right on the edge. Once the edges/sides are straight, I clean them up with a medium-fine sanding board. Now, I trace the outline of one panel, to begin the opposite panel. Next I cut and dress that panel, as well.

Now that I have two identical side panels, I can begin fine-tuning the fit. Slipping the tail on helps to position the panels properly. Through trial-and-error, I cut  and file the panel to fit around the bolts that mount the third-member. At this time, I also mark the panel for the step, where the tail overlaps. I will be using a new technique to create all the laps for this body. 

As you can see, the body panels are quite long at the bottom. I left them that way, until I determine whether or not I am going to roll them under, to create the floorboard, or simply add a floor panel inside the chassis bottom, in which case I will cut them.

Other notes: While I have acquired many specialty tools for doing sheet work, over the years, virtually all of it can be done with basic stuff we all have on hand. I use a length of 1" dowel, as a rolling pin, to flatten the sheet, as it curls, during work. A small ball-peen hammer is indispensable. I'd recommend a dedicated one, so that the face and ball-end remain smooth--they're much less likely to mar your work. A decent pair of good old Fiskars orange-handled scissors will handle most cutting needs. I'll expand on tool selection, as it arises, or as it occurs, to me!😀

Once these are fitted, I'll be on to the cowl. I plan to use the windscreen from the existing cowl, as it has a successful engine-turned finish. Your questions and comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking! Stay tuned!

 

 

[Straightliner59]

I first experimented with this technique, a few months ago. This is the perfect project in which to employ it. Dragsters typically have a few lap joints, in their body panels. Most commonly, these places are along the upper edge of the side panels, where the top panels (cowl) overlap the side panels. To create a smooth transition between these panels, one of the must be "stepped". I did this simply by gluing two strips of brass strip to the inside of the jaws of this sheet metal hand-bending "brake". I was careful to leave enough clearance for my stock. Then, I taped my side panel to the outer strip, with the bend line at the edge of the strip. I then carefully closed the brake, then gave the tool a few raps on the anvil with the ball-peen hammer. It made a nice, crisp lap joint!

I will use this technique, as well, to create the lap at the top of the cockpit side panels. That one, however, will be a custom-cut set of dies, to create a nice, curved lap line! I have to say that I am (so far--knock on wood) very happy with the way this car is progressing! Also shown with this group of photos are a selection of collected (some fabricated) items I use for shaping and working metal sheet. The clear box is mostly wooden bucks and forms. Thanks for looking...again!

[Lee Yoder]

Nicely done!

Later,

Lee

[Straightliner59]

17 hours ago, Lee Yoder said:

Nicely done!

Later,

Lee

Thank you, sir!

[Tortuga Kustomz]

Amazing work

[Straightliner59]

Well, I had intended to get photos as I was working on this thing, but, I kind of forgot. I'll get some of the tools I used, later on. For now, here's where the cowl is. Still some forming to do, and fine tuning, before I can lay out the design for the laps. I will use the old panels to mark the holes for the Dzus fasteners. I think I can countersink those holes, and use one of the small nails in each to mount the panels, them, glue a PE Dzus fastener, over that. Anyway, sorry for the lack of photos of the process. Sometimes, just building gets in the way!😄

[Straightliner59]

I made a new cowl. The first one ended up being too small. The new one (as the second one always does) fits much better! I need to get the side panels drilled for the fasteners, and pin those, them drill and pin the cowl, so that I have a definitive location to cut the front, back to the motor plate. The "press" and die worked well to create the lap for the cowl. I've added a few photos of some of the items I use to form the sheet. I really have no limitations, as to what I'll use. Hunks of wood, steel rod, several different types of hammers, tools I've made specifically for given applications...Essentially, whatever "feels" like might work. 

While there is a fair amount of technicality involved, there's also a lot of "feel", involved, in working sheet. Sometimes, the material kind of "tells" you what it requires you to do, and it may not be the way you were approaching it. I've learned to be prepared to "take notes" and do it over, again, if needed. Flat panels are simple, and virtually always nailed on the first shot! Items with compound curves often take a couple of tries. While technical aspects are easy to explain, the rest comes only from doing, and from developing a feel for the craft.

That said, here's the new cowl, and the newly-lap-jointed cockpit side panels. All comments and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

I made this form to shape the rolled edge, around the cockpit opening. This cowl will be re-annealed and have a bit more forming done, using this fixture.

I made this form, to create the basic profile of the cowl. I flattened the original, soft aluminum cowl, to use as a pattern for the new cowl(s).

An assortment of the tools I use. This is a small ball-peen hammer from a craft tools set. It's one that I use in forming dragster cowls, because it fits in there!

This is the fixture I put together to create the lap joints. The brass stock is superglued to the pliers. Once it's positioned, and the panel is in place in the tool, I use this ball-peen hammer (a larger--not huge--Estwing tool) to give the pliers a few raps atop an anvil. It's the best way I've discovered, yet, to make lap joints! They are nice and "crisp".

Pay no attention to the guy in the background. For some reason, whenever I don't have him pushing something around the bench, he break dances!😂 As I've been looking at pictures of NTF dragsters, I'm kind of leaning toward the nose/tail/under engine and cockpit panels only with open chassis between the nose and engine. I really like that look!

Edited December 11, 2022 by Straightliner59

[Straightliner59]

Perseverance is key! Just keep at it, and eventually, you'll get there. Getting closer...

[Tortuga Kustomz]

WOW love all the small details, this makes me want to do those details on my next FED, keep having fun brother

[Straightliner59]

7 hours ago, Tortuga Kustomz said:

WOW love all the small details, this makes me want to do those details on my next FED, keep having fun brother

Thanks, man! Go for it! The more eye candy, the better! No?😃

I have all my body panels roughed-in. I am definitely going with open rails. That's always looked more "race car", to me. I still need to re-anneal the cowl, and do some hammer work, on it--final shaping and fine-tuning. Then, I'll get the panels drilled, and pinned in place (temporarily) for their final-fitting-fine-tuning (Wow! That's some alliteration!). Thankfully, i won't have to polish these panels as extensively as those on my Junior Fueler, as these will be painted. Maybe black--there's still time to decide. I am very happy with all my recent work on this car. I guess, as I was, when I did all the original work. The new body's better, though. In these photos, with everything sitting in place, I think the overall look is exactly what I want it to be--a fairly utilitarian early-2000s NTF Dragster. It will only have the blower restraint straps, and not the complete bag. It gets the Donovan, because the ANRA rules I was basing the car on, at the time stipulated that the hemi engines were limited to designs based on the early hemi design. No Elephants! Anyway, here ya' go. I hope to not burn you guys out, on this thing, if I haven't, already. If so, I apologize, but, dadgummit, I'm excited about it. Thanks for looking!

Edited December 11, 2022 by Straightliner59

[Joe Nunes]

...and excited you should be about this model!  I am glad that you are sharing the construction information with us as you progress through this project. 

Joe

[Ian McLaren]

On 12/2/2022 at 11:59 PM, Straightliner59 said:

Thanks, so kindly, for your comments, Ian! I agree--getting a model on the wheels is kind of a big moment. When I set it aside, I think I knew that I was waiting for the day that I felt my skills had progressed to the point where I could do it, properly. I feel like I am there, for sure. The steering works flawlessly, and the rest of the parts are satisfying, to me. I'm not particularly looking forward to using all my "elbow grease", sanding the coating off the aluminum flashing, but, that's not terribly far off, now.

As to the third member--I also have a photoetched Strange logo for it. I had one on, but, it went flying to, well...wherever parts go, when they fly away!

I have a question--what data collection points did you install for the box on your altered? I'm just curious as to how many might be used. I know on the current (NHRA) fuel cars, there are a bazillion of them, even things like exhaust temps. I'm guessing I'll want engine RPM, output shaft RPM and wheel speed, at least.

Thanks, Marcos! You're doing just fine, just keep working it, man! Don't worry about me--I'm pretty sure that I can't help myself!🤣

Daniel sorry for the late reply regarding the Power Grid setup on the altered. The wiring I used ran three wires to the dash, and 8 cables forward to the engine (4 on each side of the can). Two larger cables one red one black ran forward to the battery box in front of the engine. The forward cables terminated at the lower corners of the motor plate except for the battery cables.  The wiring on the engine is simplified, consisting of the eight thermocouples on the headers, fuel flow ( just above  the fuel shutoff valve) , oil pressure  and two wires to the MSD coil. 

[Dragline]

Looking outstandong brother. Persistenseois def the key.

Stay at it and bring it on home.

[Straightliner59]

17 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Daniel sorry for the late reply regarding the Power Grid setup on the altered. The wiring I used ran three wires to the dash, and 8 cables forward to the engine (4 on each side of the can). Two larger cables one red one black ran forward to the battery box in front of the engine. The forward cables terminated at the lower corners of the motor plate except for the battery cables.  The wiring on the engine is simplified, consisting of the eight thermocouples on the headers, fuel flow ( just above  the fuel shutoff valve) , oil pressure  and two wires to the MSD coil. 

Thank you, sir. It's no problem, regarding the time--I'm a little way off from that, still. I may not be too far from repainting the repaired areas of the chassis. I bought a pair of front wheels from a Polar Lights FC on Ebay, so I can just build my front wheels. I poured a mold to cast the one I'd made, and the rubber didn't like something--it's been a week, and it's still pretty gooey. Thanks again for your help, Ian. It's much appreciated!

[Straightliner59]

18 hours ago, Joe Nunes said:

...and excited you should be about this model!  I am glad that you are sharing the construction information with us as you progress through this project. 

Joe

Thanks, Joe! I don't really hang out with any other modelers, locally--that kind of comes along with working third shift--so, I may tend to share more here, than others. You know--I just don't have anybody else to show it to!🙂 Thanks for your comments, and for following along!

 

8 hours ago, Dragline said:

Looking outstandong brother. Persistenseois def the key.

Stay at it and bring it on home.

Thanks, Bob! You got it, buddy! This one is going to the display case, not back to the shelf of the eternal holding pattern!

[afx]

Nice work Daniel. Don't forget to wear hearing protection when you are banging on those panels. 

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, afx said:

Nice work Daniel. Don't forget to wear hearing protection when you are banging on those panels. 

Huh? 😄 Thanks, JC! Appreciate it.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

On 12/10/2022 at 11:37 PM, Straightliner59 said:

Perseverance is key! Just keep at it, and eventually, you'll get there. Getting closer...

I would also add a good dose of talent which you obviously have my friend!!!  Coupled with an apparent pleasure in advancing this high caliber project, the pleasure also becomes ours in seeing your techniques in action.  There is way too much to comment on, but I like what I see. 😊

[Straightliner59]

18 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

I would also add a good dose of talent which you obviously have my friend!!!  Coupled with an apparent pleasure in advancing this high caliber project, the pleasure also becomes ours in seeing your techniques in action.  There is way too much to comment on, but I like what I see. 😊

That is very kind of you, Francis! I am having fun with the project, to be sure! I cut the floorboard, today, and finally got some more "rise" around the cockpit opening, after re-annealing to cowl. The front wheels are fighting me, mightily. I got my wheels yesterday morning, and broke one of them, just a while ago. I'm considering turning some...stay tuned. Thank you for your comments, my friend.

Also, a quick note on cutting straight lines, with scissors. When I cut this sheet, I mark the cut, on each end of the sheet. 

Next, I nick the mark on one end.

Now, using my other hand, I hold the opposite mark in alignment with the scissors using the back of my index finger. The thumb holds the material flat against the cutting surface of the blade. This action keeps the material of the "good" side from curling, as it comes away from the blade. Generally, this can be accomplished by turning the material, and changing the direction from which you approach the cut. Not always, however. I bought a pair of left-handed scissors, for just such instances. Finally, maintaining alignment and thumb pressure, as you apply cutting pressure to the scissors , a virtually perfect cut can be made, without drawing an entire line to mark a cut Try this with any rigid or semi-rigid material you're using.

Edited December 13, 2022 by Straightliner59

[John B.]

Incredible workmanship, sir!

[Tortuga Kustomz]

Awesome work, i can try that on my camaro details, i need to add some panels around the roll cage

[Straightliner59]

17 hours ago, John B. said:

Incredible workmanship, sir!

Thank you, John! 

11 hours ago, Tortuga Kustomz said:

Awesome work, i can try that on my camaro details, i need to add some panels around the roll cage

Thanks, Marcos. It works, beautifully! Wish I'd figured it out, years ago!😄

[Tortuga Kustomz]

me too brother

[Ian McLaren]

Another good update, the cowl is looking as it should  and I like the tip with the scissors.  I know you'll get the wheel deal handled.