What do you reccomend for rust colored paint?

[dryvr12]

for heavy rust. Eventually (not really anytime soon) iw ill be atteptmting a duel truck . what are your reccomendations? Ive seen testors rust (but i dont use testors much) ive seen rail road rust in a can, but would airbrusing layers be the best? Which paints would look most realistic?

Edited February 23, 2009 by dryvr12

[locoengr]

I saw, somewhere (?), mixing baking soda and water into a paste & applying to the car body. After it thouroghly dries it can then be painted. It looked quite real. Maybe on BMC is where I saw this?

Bruce in Fargo

[Jeff Johnston]

At Michaels you can find somethign called "sophisticatef finishes" rust. It's a 2 part system. Here is the results on one of my junkers.

It goes for about 12 bucks and will last longer then we will

this is what you are looking for.

[dryvr12]

Im not sure if the truck was a rust pit. I think it was more rust 'colored'. Not holes and all that. It looks sort of copper to me

[dryvr12]

http://www.classiccar.com/garage/blog/uploads/duel_truck.jpg

[Aaronw]

There is some stuff called (I think) rust-all, I haven't used it but it looks promising. It is a 4 or 5 part system so you are supposed to be able to do anything from light surface rust to full body rust cancer.

I thought I had seen a post from someone who was using it, but it might have been one of the armor guys on another site.

Also just a suggestion, but you might do better with an answer if you include what you want in the title. What do you recommend for doing rust will be more likely to attract the attention of the rust bucket builders than What do you recommend... which could be asking for help with anything from kit selection, paint color, or tool advice.

[dryvr12]

good idea bout the title. do u have a price range for the stuff? (rust-all)

[gowjobs]

Rust-All is a water-based 4-part system that can be used to make some really realistically rusted finishes, but it takes a bit of experimentation to get exactly what you're looking for - not a problem, because there's enough in the bottles to do a BUNCH of models, and it's easily removed with an ammonia-based cleaner until you seal it.

My suggestions:

A quick and easy way to a basic oxidized steel look is to buy a can of Tamiya Light Gunmetal and one of Floquil Roof Brown. Mist these alternately over the parts in question until you get the look you're going for (I hold one can in each hand, and shoot from a couple of feet away).

The headlight buckets on this 1/8 bucket were treated in this manner:

The following were done with a base coat using this "oxidized steel" method, and then RustAll, followed by rubber cement to mask my rusty areas before I shot the "paint" over the top:

[dryvr12]

Thanks, I think ill try this. but im still open for more suggestions

[James W]

Get yourself a variety of colors to work with from brown to orange. Red Oxide makes a great starting base, that is the old rust.

The fresher rust will be brighter, like bright orange. You can dry brush brighter colors over your base for good effect.

Stay away from gloss colors. Sometimes solvents make paint glossy when you creat a wash.

Use a flat clear to get rid of glossy areas.

Then finish with pastel chalks, again in autumn colors.

The Rust All system is fine but you can follow the steps with your own products to get great results.

[Kodiak Island Modeler]

I've used several different methods, including Rust-all. My favorite is simply to use various colors from the craft section at Wal-Mart. The bottles sell for around a dollar to three dollars and last a long time. They're cheap, and once you get used to them, you can do some fantastic things with them. I've got a picture of a diorama that I've used this process on, listed under the diorama section. A rough surface can be had by mixing in silica sand.

Edited February 23, 2009 by Kodiak Island Modeler

[Tommy Kortman]

Zack,

I have used both the "sophisticated finishes" product and Rust-All. The craft store stuff is a 2 stage process. First you paint in the primer which contains metal particles, and once that is dry you apply the top coat. The top coat smells a little like vinager and it actually rusts the metal in the primer. I actually prefer the rust-all. It is a 4 step process, although I have never used the last step(dead flat) You bruch on a coat of the rust colored liquid, and before it dries you can sprikle on some of the dirt that they give you. The dirt is what gives the rust it's texture. Then you alternate between the "rust" and the black wash to get the color you desire. Once you get it to where you want it, you can seal it with Testors Dullcoat. You can also use the "rust" without the other 2 parts. I like to do this for lightly rusted chrome. I dont seal this beacuse I dont want to dull all of the chrome. There are also some pastel products out there aimed toward the military modelers that have a binder in them. instead of applying them dry like normal pastel chalks, you use some water and a paint brush. The water activetes the binder, and the pastel will stick to the surface. This will also add texture att the same time. If i remember correctly, the Dual truck had a lot of old rust and grime. So i would stay away from bright orange rust. Go with the darker oranges and browns. Poly Scale R/R colors has a couple of nice browns. they are Roof Brown, and Rail tie brown. They work pretty good for old grimy rust.