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Walt's Puffer Too T-Bucket Altered


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Fabulous project! I'm really enjoying your work and you're doing a great job with this!

I have a somewhat similar project in mind. I want to build a T altered completely out of AMT Parts Pack parts--body, frame, engine, wheels. Body will be the AMT comp T (just ordered one), frame the parts pack rod frame (yeah, I know it's basically a street rod frame, but the sprung rear suspension will be hidden under the body), engine parts pack blown Pontiac, wheels from the parts pack. I don't have original parts pack tires, but I ordered the new ones and will try to use those if possible; if not, I'll use something from a pre-1967 kit. Any other parts I need along the way will be sourced from pre-'67 kits. I'm going for somewhere in the 1964 to '66 timeframe, something similar in appearance to the Jewel T but in metalflake blue (vintage Testor 'flake, of course). I wanna see if I can build it using all mid-'60s parts and materials, using my 2014 skills, airbrush, adhesives, and so forth.

Meanwhile, I'll be following yours for inspiration. Model on! :)

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Now that sounds like a cool project Stan. Let me know when you start a thread because I want to follow along on your build. I just bought one of those parts packs T body kits to see if the body would fit this build, but no, its too narrow and the wheel openings are too small. I'll use them on a different altered at a later time.

Thanks for the kind words and I'll do just that..."model on!"

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It looks like from the Parts Pack T instructions that it was designed to be a drop-on to the Double Dragster Fiat frame. I have a very vague memory of doing one that way "back in the day."

I was wondering how that body was going to work out for you. It looked like the rear wheel cutouts are smaller than those on Walt's Puffer. But it looks like they're bigger on the Winged Express body. I do think the latter looks better for what you're doing.

Back in the day (around 1969 or 1970), I built a model of the first Marcellus & Borsch car using the AMT Parts body (scratchbuilt frame and everything else, basically). I started with that body because of the cutouts but of course I had to enlarge them. I could have started with any stupid T body and tubbed it myself. Ah shucks oh well.

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My eyes are able to focus again after a night's sleep. I made the individual leaves from printing plate along with the part that mounts directly to the axle. The ends were bent around a piece of piano wire and then polished with some micro abrasion pads. For the connectors between the spring ends and the mounting pieces were 2 hole photo etch wire looms and I used Scale Hardware bolts for the connections. I only had four of the 2 hole wire looms so I had to be careful not to shoot any of them across the room. :D

Leaf1_zpsfeeac449.jpg

Leaf2_zpsb90b5265.jpg

Thanks for following along. Again, comments welcome.

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That part really caused me to ponder Michael. I knew on the full size axles, the fish mouthed piece was welded on. Obviously that wasn't going to work in scale. Then I realized I could make a thin saw cut in the aluminum axle and insert the flat ended piece into the slot and it would look right and still give me enough surface area to glue. Problem solved.

Thanks for the kind words Michael.

Chris - I'm not the new sheriff in town but I really appreciate your vote of confidence.

Edited by gasser59
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Hi Brad,

OK, good idea with the slit, this way you get enough retention for Z-a-G to do its thing.

This is really working out to be information that I can use for my upcoming Hot Rod and Altered builds. I'm nuts about these type of cars because there is no real plan for them, do as you please, but do it good, and right. The front axle is highly visible and leaves lots of room for improvement. With your technique, this goal has become well within reach for what I would like to see and do.

I've found in the meantime some precision model shops in Germany that offer decent nuts and bolts in proper scale, and I don't have to pay exorbitant shipping prices. I will though soon be ordering parts like rod ends and for future builds some really good looking 4 link setups from some of the guys here on this forum.

Michael

Edited by 10thumbs
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It sure seemed to take alot more time than I expected but the pulleys are all set up. I had to source an appropriate timing belt cover and then modify it. What's left before painting the block is to source an external oil filter which goes on the right side behind the headers. I tried to turn one this morning on my Dremel but I think its too small.

Here's a pic of the pulleys and cover.

Pullies_zps556f4454.jpg

Progress continues.

Edited by gasser59
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