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Henry J Twin Turbo - Didn't see that coming..........

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Tim, how long do you think it will be before you make your own threads?

Wonderful work!

Michael

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Phenomenal work, Tim. Thanks, too, for the explanation you offered about the pinned driveshaft safety loop. I think someone's gonna have to come and help me off the floor, as well as Kerry... :)

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To everyone following and posting favorable comments.... i REALLY do appreciate your words and interest. Art, keep that brass midget going, I'm following it for sure. and Scott, you're very welcome on the drive shaft loop question.

I'm spending too much time today putting welds on the inter pipes. My angles on the pipes make putting the welds on "challenging" as they're not simply round pipe but they have "sharp" edges if you will.....not my favorite thing to do I assure you. But they will be done by days end and I found a technique that is helping to speed it along a bit. I'll share the tip later when I post the results.

Here's a couple picks of the bottle on the main hoop now. And cheers to all, Tim

nTurboBottleBracketLocation003-vi.jpg

And from the back

nTurboBottleBracketLocation008-vi.jpg

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Wowy Kazowy, exactly the way I had envisioned it. Okay, maybe only 10X better.

Rock On Tim, Rock On.

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Thanks Guys. Here's the Hobby Design metal welds glued on the intercooler pipes. There are a few tiny spots of superglue yet that I need to "scrape" off and then buff with my dremel wheel. You'll see them as discoloration around the weld itself. The camera misses NOTHING! Pics 3 and 4 relate to how I did them on the angled elbows. Cheers, Tim

yJTwinTurboHobbyDesignWelds002-vi.jpg

yJTwinTurboHobbyDesignWelds017-vi.jpg

In this picture please note I used locking tweezers with electrical shrink tube on the tips to hold the weld securely while I apply the super glue with a MicroMark metal glue applicator. After 10 minutes, I remove the tweezer, snip off the excess weld and then apply a tiny amount of glue to the very ends of the weld. I held the ends down for a few minutes using a tooth pick but a rubber type of applicator would be better. Super glue tries to even grab onto the tooth pick. The next step is to use the back of an X-acto 11 blade and oh so carefully scrape any excess glue away from the weld. Then I use the dremel wheel in the 2nd pic set at the lowest speed possible to polish the entire pipe and the welds. Clean it all up with 91% isoprypl alcolhol to remove any fingerprints and dirt and set aside till final assembly.

yJTwinTurboHobbyDesignWelds028-vi.jpg

Tools used - Hope this helps anyone looking to use the welds in the future. They can be a bit challenging but hopefully this willl save you some time.

yJTwinTurboHobbyDesignWelds025-vi.jpg

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That's a great tutorial Tim.

Question: I've been using Gorilla Glue as my CA of choice. From time to time, it will "grow a fuzz" that requires clean up. Does the Loctite do that? Would using the glue applicator prevent / minimize that?

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Thanks again Bob.

Joe, when you say "fuzz" any chance you can PM me with a pic so I better understand what you're describing? I've never had an issue with Loctite after it's been applied. It does not dry clear although they have introduced some new CA glues that they claim dry clear. The applicator grabs only a small amount of glue at a time...a drop or so. The capilary action of the applicator applies just enough so it mostly flows below the weld and sets. If I get too much on, I just lightly dab the area on top of the weld to clean it up. The glue I show in the pic is very thin and flows readily.

I tried earlier to post an edit update wherein I stated that I select the weld I want to apply of course, then sand it with a fine sanding stick. Wipe it clean with 91% alcolhol, allow to dry and then apply.

Cheers guys!

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Tim,
Your work is quite astonishing. I did go into your FOTKI account that you had on page 1 of the Henry J. The progress that you are keeping on this build is great.

Ron

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Tim... I am so Impressed and blown away by your talents. I love the fire bottle mounting brackets and the detail to the welds. Your work is very inspiring and it is pushing me to get more done on my funny car. keep up the great work and I look forward to your next update.

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Just amazing work!! This kind of talent goes way beyond even an experienced modeler.

DOES ANYONE BUILD USING PLASTIC ANYMORE!!!! LOL.

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Mike/Ron/Chris and Mark......thanks again guys. i'm in the final stance phase and took time today to figure out how to set it up for quick on/off and for accuracy in addition to the actual soldering that I'll do while it's in place. With the doors / front posts and rear suspension coming up soon it's high time I figured out the final fabbing process. The stance at the front spoiler is EXACTLY a scale 3" and at the body in front of the rear tire it's 5". I liberally added past practices of Dave (comp1839) and Clay Kemp in addition to my own ideas to get to where I'm going so I can finish the chassis fab and hopefully use some of the techniques on future builds if successful.. I'll post in a week or so as I make some real progress with it...until then..................Cheers, Tim

HENRYJBODYCHASSISSETUP031-vi.jpg

I've said many times how tight the interior is on this car, which is why I've spent SOOO much time on the planning and fabbing of certain pieces so far. The distance from the main hoop to the front door post is exactly 2".......talk about putting the proverbial 5 lbs. of whatever into a 1 lb. bag. :)

HENRYJBODYCHASSISSETUP035-vi.jpg

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Mike/Ron/Chris and Mark......thanks again guys. i'm in the final stance phase and took time today to figure out how to set it up for quick on/off and for accuracy in addition to the actual soldering that I'll do while it's in place. With the doors / front posts and rear suspension coming up soon it's high time I figured out the final fabbing process. The stance at the front spoiler is EXACTLY a scale 3" and at the body in front of the rear tire it's 5". I liberally added past practices of Dave (comp1839) and Clay Kemp in addition to my own ideas to get to where I'm going so I can finish the chassis fab and hopefully use some of the techniques on future builds if successful.. I'll post in a week or so as I make some real progress with it...until then..................Cheers, Tim

HENRYJBODYCHASSISSETUP031-vi.jpg

I've said many times how tight the interior is on this car, which is why I've spent SOOO much time on the planning and fabbing of certain pieces so far. The distance from the main hoop to the front door post is exactly 2".......talk about putting the proverbial 5 lbs. of whatever into a 1 lb. bag. :)

HENRYJBODYCHASSISSETUP035-vi.jpg

where did you get the tires?

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fronts from futurattraction the slicks are compresins

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