blunc

I posted this in a Workbench thread and realized it would fit real good here for detailing engine compartments and any other place on your models that would look better with wires attached. Old motors/armatures from slot cars and/or dead cd/dvd/floppy drives use wires of similar gauge and if you have any dead electronics or have access to scrap electronics or motorized toys then you have a great source of free wires in various sizes and colors. Just disassemble the motor and find the outermost armature winding and start unwinding it, there are literally tens of feet of wire on some of those. Regular multi-strand car or speaker wire can be pulled from it's cover/sleeve and separated down to individual strands then painted to your preference.

I wasn't sure if your question was actually answered....but I do have a tip regarding source of wires. old motors/armatures from slot cars and/or dead cd/dvd/floppy drives use wires of similar gauge and if you have any dead electronics or have access to scrap electronics or motorized toys then you have a great source of free wires in various sizes and colors. the master cylinder brake lines on this model came from a dead HO slot car armature and the sparkplug wires came from a larger motor armature (by the way...this is 1/32 scale):

they were really cool when they were announced to the public, the gullwing doors were fascinating back in the 70's, little did they know that the gas-shocks would go bad and you had to push a really heavy door up/open to get in/out...or keep a broom handle in the car.

I figured you were gonna run them lines to an electric fuel pump hidden under the passenger seat...

It looks like they sculpted it from a verbal description rather than referencing a real car.

Nice work on one of Pontiac's iconic cars. By the way, if you take care of the front turn signals nitpicky people like me will bug you less...

Maybe you could get someone to semd you some BMF... It looks like you have run the fuel lines into the automatic choke housings or maybe the vacuum secondary housing...fyi ...that's great if you like it that way

You could try building the door hinges like I did on a 71 TA, I posted pics in a thread... 1/32 scale workbench Some brass u-channel and square evergreen stock is all you need.

Fill the gaps...if it went faster than 30mph the doors would start vibrating due to the air getting sucked into the gap.

Having actually been in a Bricklin once I can attest to the lousy fit and finish of these cars, they had Ford engines, I forget who made the rest of the drive train. I vote real also.

That's a purdy little Olds.

There was a rumor that GM brass killed the Pontiac Banshee (sitting next to the Bonneville in the first photo) because it would rob Vette sales...I agree, I think the USA might have had two American sportscars instead of just Vette's

it's so shiny I can see myself...

I like the colors. by the way...the carbs are on backwards. really.

Here's a few I built in the mid-80's (darned if I'm not getting old...) Pinto wagon converted to a Ranchero with a Mustang II front clip, 351W with dual-quad hi-rise. An AMC Gremlin, if you look at it long enough you'll see I'm not kidding. flat-4 engine, rear suspension from an Indy car, fender flares from a Dodge Omni/Charger Something I call Dats-Am, a Datsun P/U with a TA bumper/grille assembly and a SBC for power. I built this for a former friend because this was being done to his 1:1 Datsun P/U, little did I know that he would use this model to save $10 by entering it in a World of Wheels car show (and therefore getting in free). The jerk got a 3rd place trophy for something he didn't build! The Ranchero and Gremlin are actually headed back to "The Workbench" for some finish/refinish work.

I'm fairly sure you must have gotten distracted by something SQUIRREL!!! because you saying you weren't paying close attention to what you're doing just doesn't seem to jive with the models we've seen you produce. PS. there have been a few other builders here that have not timed their driveshafts correctly either.

add me to your long list of admirers, you are a model ARTISTE! I do however have a small nit to pick.... your driveshaft is improperly "timed" and would not survive "real world" use for very long. Universal joint positioning should be mirrored otherwise there would be vibrations at higher speeds.

it's the playstation generation...

I think you nailed it. I had a four door version of that car in all black, I was told it was the Town Victoria model. I have started a replica of it but that is on a real far back burner.

thanx for the comments, I will get a tutorial up as soon as I can... may be a couple weeks before it gets posted.

I've been using Paintshop Pro for many years, it's almost as powerful as Photoshop but usually one tenth the price. Corel acquired it a few years ago, my guess would be that it wanted direct competition against Photoshop, give it a look...it handles raster and vector based files.

I had read that there is a V8 version built also. It didn't fare so well during the seventies "safety" craze.

nice work on the chassis. FYI: in my limited experience ( having worked in a tune-up shop for six years and having my hands on over 10,000 cars/engines ) the most likely firing order for V8 Mopars is 18436572, I don't recall Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler getting adventurous with their firing orders like Ford and GM did.

I have been able to get a few of these Monogram 1/32 kit on fleabay...oddly, there seem to be quite a few people parting with the Charger kit but no one selling the TA kit, I got a second TA kit many years ago in case I goofed on any of the parts I'm working on now (and they are a great resource for parts when kitbashing Lindberg/Pyro or snap kits). Regarding the hinges, I think this design will be my choice for any future "door work" I do on cars that don't have external hinges showing. I've been mulling better ways to hinge hoods and trunks also....just don't have anything to post yet. The current "common" (and very easy) method of bent wire stuck into tubes which are glued to the trunk lid kind of ruins the illusion of being a real car for me, so I want to come up with something that satisfies my esthetic for "working" features on model cars.

This '71 TA has been on my workbench for a while but all the great work I've seen in this forum has given me the urge to make a run to finish it... the current "on hold" status will be going forward from what you see next: the kit: doors opened, hinges made. I wanted the doors to move like the real ones so I made hinges from brass U-channel and square evergreen stock, the front edge of the door will open inward just like "real" cars do. The brass U-channel "tension-fits" into H-shaped Evergreen stock so that I can just slip the doors on when they are finished. a shot of a door skin on the hinges hand-stitched leather seats, yup...thats glove leather. the engine bay, molded on hoses and wire have been removed to be replaced with better looking detail, the engine will look a bit small till the rest of the detailing is done. a 1/24 scale Pontiac motor (slated for a Judge after I get a few more 1/32 scale projects done) posed to give size reference. I still have some door gap fixes to make but they open and close well at this time. The trunk will get opened/hinged after I get the rest of the door/body work done because I feel it will lose too much structural integrity without the strength the trunk lid gives the body at this time. The red "snowflake" wheels will get Alclad (most likely), the kit supplied honeycomb wheels look too small IMHO and the kit tires look too skinny and lame so I took eight of the "one-sided" snaptogether tires, cut them in half and made four two-sided tires. I am still waffling on whether I will add LED head/tail lights, powering them without looking kludgy is currently my sticking point. Thanks for looking.