customline

I was wondering where my beautiful, well detailed engine went. What would he do with it?

I don't know how much longer I can keep this up, Zack, but you are certainly welcome to hang out. Comments are always welcome but be warned: I have no idea what I'm doing. 😪

Sometimes a highboy is warranted. Especially if you don't like sitting on the floor or if you have a culturally significant hair style

It's a bash job, for sure, Bil. Not sure if it's worth the effort, though.

Rooster, did you start with a cold can and not warm it up? If there isn't enough pressure in the can, it won't atomize properly. I will use a hair dryer on spray cans to boost the pressure. I've experienced what you described. You already had a paint job on it. Why not let it dry and wet sand instead of removing all that paint and primer. I know it's too late but maybe warming spray cans might help next time.

Dave isn't here either, Bil. He's still trying to finish up the Cord. I'll let him know. He'll appreciate your comment but he needs to do a little more work on it.

Nah, I'm good 👌 but thanks anyway.

When my tudor goes over a speed bump the hood will fly open and slam shut. The magnets are a necessity 😌. They're getting along now but I had to promise the remains of the the Revell kit a serious top chop. Then I have to turn what's left of the AMT kit into some stupid diorama. I'm not doing that! 😠

Oh no! You don't need to explain. 😥

Wow, Len. Wow. I know you're going to bring it back better than new but WOW ! What a trashed out p.o.s. The question that comes to my mind is "how bad does it have to be before it becomes a parts car?" 😳. I'm following 😶

Whooooo hooo! I like it! Channel it, Bil. You know you want to. 😉

Because the chassis is Revell and the body is AMT, the bumper brackets needed to be attached to the frame and the body needed to be tweaked a bit. The front just needed a little enlarging of the slots. The rear was off a few mms. The bottom corners of the body had to be patched up with CA and some small styrene bits. The radiator is the Revell part as well as all four hoses. I added .020 brass to the hoses and drilled the outlets to help with subsequent assembly. The hood hinges are quite free to move so I figgered a pair of magnets might be a good idea. I put the mounting in place in the hood and closed the hole behind the grille.

That's a nice looking hood, Len.

Len, .......oh, never mind. 😔

I had a bad time with the AMT hood fitting between the fenders from the same kit! With the tudor in place on the fender unit, the hood was about 2mms. too long and had to be fitted. It still needs to be fiddled with. The AMT coupe kit is pretty worn out. I assume you're OK with your hood now?

Morning mock-up.

Oooo...Bob didn't show up today, Carl, but I'll pass it on when that bum finally decides to come do some work. 😂....thank you, though. 😉

Before I hinged the hood, I noticed how washed out the trim looked. I figgered I'd better add some right on top. All of it. Right? How worn out is that? 😪 Evergreen to the rescue 🤑

Back at it today, I massaged the AMT hood until it fit. I made use of the firewall slots with some aluminum tube and brass rod HUNGRY HIPPO ☝😄

Got the engine a bit further along with MCG heads and a modified manifold, some wires too. The interior tub was missing the mounting tabs that locate in slots in the firewall. I glued some pieces of .060x .156 into the slots for a way to secure the tub later. If you build the Revell '40 Standard kit, you must add your own drain plug (black circle) to the gas tank (if you want one, that is 😅) The red circle is just areas that had to be filled and ignore the red arrows. Then we have the Coke fenders after opening up the inner fenders to give the tub room. At this point the floor has been attached to the fender module. At the bottom is the newly minted manifold. The original fuel pump has been replaced by an electric unit hidden in the trunk 🙂.

Well, as far as the fuel pump goes, were electric pumps available in 1952? I'll need to google that. (I'll bet Ace knows 🙂) The fender section from the Coke Coupe kit would not allow the tudor interior tub to sit down due to the bottom of the back seat hitting the rear inner fenders, which are cut away on the tudor fender section. The photo shows it, Dave. It was an easy fix with a Dremel. I was kinda scratching my head over why didn't they just make one for all three. The tudor goes way back, after all. Anyway, I gotta run down to the 1:25 Auto-Zone and get a cheap electric pump 😂

Well here's one for ya, Greg. 😉. I don't know exactly why but the steering link didn't meet up with the steering box. The placement was a bit vague but I'm pretty sure I got it right. I cut the link off and drilled the components for .020 brass wire and made a longer link.

Thanks, Carl.

It's not really a process, per se, Bil. It's more like stumbling in the dark while small angry dogs are nipping at my ankles and a swarm of mosquitos are feasting on my blood. Sort of. But that's normal. 🥴

Mock-up time! Spent some time cutting on the white fender module. The tudor interior tub needed room for the back seat. The inner fenders that are part of the Revell floor pan needed trimming. More work is needed at the toe board/firewall area. So far, combining the various components from 3 different kits is looking like it's going to work (man, I sure hope so.) Dimensionally, the Revell frame suits the AMT body just fine. So far...so good. 🤞 Tamiya pearl green? Orange? Black Cherry? Yup, they're different all right. A little cutting followed. This is why I'm using the Revell chassis. Thanks for checking in.