customline

This is Alien technology, I'm convinced. ?

Don't use the pine cone this time, Greg. ?

Oooo yeah.....that's a beauty ?

OK, James, I'm liking it. Imagine a scenario that ends with an image of your Chevy. Where would you find rust in this particular car? What areas are the most susceptible to rotting out? Rust is about texture and color. But. Again, go easy ?.

I cannot see, in my mind's eye, any scenario in which a pine cone - clean, dirty, or otherwise - could apply paint with any degree of.....anything ?! but it was funny ? OK, let's not do this again.....sorry Greg....?

Dirty pinecone? Did I read that right? ?

OK, yeah..... my over-active spell checker, itself, is tyrannical. When I have bloviated for several paragraphs, I proof-read several times before hitting the "submit" button and when im sure I have it all straight and just before I hit the button, my spell checker re-writes it all. Very frustrating ?. If I didn't need it so badly I would shut it off. ? Thanks, Charlie, for dragging this up. ?

I don't get it, Greg. That just looks like a pretty normal paint job to me ?

The Nomad is 1:24 scale and the AMT Novae are 1:25 but you may be able to use the rear portion with some creative butchery. I'm not a fan of the pro-street look but the Nomad body is a good candidate, certainly. The Nomad chassis has molded-in exhaust that would need to be dealt with. Yeah, there's some work involved?. These Monogram tri-5 chevy kits are not well-detailed (firewall is a glaring example) and if you don't need an accurate model, you can overlook its deficiencies. The interior is another example. But you can still have fun with it. I have two of the Nomad kits and the '55 ragtop waiting for me. I'm thinking "gasser" for one Nomad ?. Maybe a '70s street machine for the other one, like the one on the box, but with better wheels ?.

Hey, James, you got me thinking about another of these 1:24 Monogram kits - the '57 Nomad. So I opened one up and started looking it over and I discovered a huge goof. The spare well is not depicted correctly on the chassis. It's a huge mistake. The Nomad stores the spare horizontally but the chassis/floor has a vertical spare well like a Bel Air. The cheap-skates pulled a fast one. ?.

I agree with Ricky, there is a tendency to go a bit too far on your first few projects of this nature (I still haven't learned that yet ?) so just keep that in mind. It looks like you are keeping to your original plan, James, the engine and chassis looks terrific.

I think you should test the paint scheme on a spoon. That just looks like primer to me , Greg. It doesn't matter what they call it. Maybe "KHORNE" in Icelandic means "oxide" ?.

I'm lovin' it!

I can't keep a bit smaller than a #76 because I always break them but if I had one, I would use a #80. You probably have some bit you use for ignition wire? You're creating an illusion, so you can't always keep everything to scale. This is art now, James. The lines that are left behind may add to the overall effect. You are doing just fine.

I have used a 1/2" chisel blade , a #11 "surgical" blade, single edge razor blades and emery boards and nail files, and anything else that would make the trim go away (picture the AMT '56 Vicky ?) To answer the question, nothing is easy until you make it that way.

I'm going to take a chance and post these photos that I found out in the ether. They will possibly help you with hole locations where you removed the trim pieces. You'll need to zoom, of course, to see some of the holes. I will take them down if you wish.

Nope, don't waste your time, Len, it's not that important. I was just wondering maybe you'd run into something like this. I think I can make it work if I ever get around to it. Thanks for the link. ?

It requires a whole lot of magnification. And tweezers.. Hey, I was just thinking about what you're doing with the Plymouth and Dodge chassis/ body swapping attic junk, etc.. and it got me thinking about a swap I will be doing (if I live long enough.) I have the Dirty Donny Super Bee that I want to build as a stock street car, not a tubbed-out pro-streeter. I used the tubbed chassis for a stock car, using the Round 2 '64 Dodge body with the expectation of using that ('64 Dodge) chassis under the '70 Coronet body. It looks pretty darn close to a drop-in but, as we all know, the best laid plans...well, anyway, whattaya think? You probably have all that stuff in your attic ?.

Yes it does, it makes good sense. I believe I will try it on my next opportunity. Thanks, Dave!

Oh yes there is, smarty-pants! You can climb in through the hatch or you can leave the moon roof open ?. So there! Or just use the remote ?

Agreed! What you have done with the lights is reeeeeeealy good, Greg. That one thing makes all the difference on this sloppily designed kit. And the .020 seems to be the way with the welt. I don't know if the sproo-goo is a good idea since it caused some trouble but it was a small price to pay. My first choice was bondo but I thought it might get knocked loose with all the shaping activity. I figured sproo-goo would have a stronger bond. I never thought it would do what it did to your fenders ?. But....all's well that ends well. What color did you decide on? ?

I can hear Deep Purple playing "Highway Star" on that 8-track. Well....that bootleg 8-track ?

David, I see you have masked out the trim. What's your strategy for this? I've only done a few two-tone jobs and the trim got painted in one color or the other. I found the danger is leaving a rough line where the tape was and its difficult to smooth it out before foil applications. My strategy now is to put the tape line on the trim at TDC to allow it to be smoothed during the wet sand/polish operation. This would provide a smooth foil result. But it's just a theory for me at this point. I just wonder how other builders do this (before I screw up a nice two tone job ?)

Yes they do but we fight for the sport of it ?

David, I was thinking about the Custom 300 trim, your build is Fairlane trim. My bad ?