935k3

I saw this driving to the exotic Car Show in Hershey, Pa yesterday. The owner is a New York City Divorce Lawyer. The license plate was interesting. The light green is the original color the rest is a wrap and trim tape. It looked like chrome missile coming down the road.

Use Tamiya masking tape layed over the area. Use pencil to mark the edges. Then lay the tape on file index cards or thick copier paper and cutout the pattern and lay it on the decal and cut. I did the interior below like that, it's about 30 pieces of decal.

Sharpened tooth pick and use acrylic paint because mistakes can we wiped off with a damp Q-tip

Another reason BMF is better it can be touched and handled. The silver paint in markers cannot. BMF is very sensitive to how smooth the surface it's being applied to is.

It is allot of work but masking and airbrushing give the best results.

see Don Wheeler's review here https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/badger-155-anthem. You can't go wrong with chicagoairbrushsupply.com. They have good prices and excellent service.

Interior is done.

I have the Revolution too, It's a great airbrush for the price. I like having both the Eclipse(.35mm tip) and the Revolution(.50mm tip). You can get parts to convert the Eclipse to .50 mm if you like a bit heavier spray. You can also get needle limiter handles for both which can come in handy sometimes. Most of the parts for the Eclipse are available at Hobby Lobby(40% off coupon)

You will love it. The first time you actually get an Iwata in your hands you know it's Quality piece.

No it will be curbside. It took allot of work already. I am looking forward to getting the EMI version that comes out this summer from Aoshima.

I got some work done on the interior and brakes. i sanded the photo-etched brakes with 320 grit paper. I had to scratchbuild the electric boxes,fire extinguisher and the seat belt bracket an the bulkhead behind the seat. It needs some dusting and touchup. The panel around the shifter and the shifter are also scratchbuilt. The Mclaren logo on the black box was made by printing on dull aluminum bare metal foil cut and applied.

Alclad primers are pre-thinned and great for small parts.

This is one of those things that having an airbrush is worth having. You can take the same paint and depending on how light or heavy you spray can very the sheen. This technique doesn't work with heavier spraying airbrushes like the Paasche H. You can spray with flats then when dry rub with your finger to bring a level of semigloss. I have tried talcum powder mixed with the paint, it does work just do not add too much. The proper level of sheen does make for a more realistic model.

I would like to sit behind this one out of Porsche's 919 Hybrid LMP1 car.

I use gravity feed only and I have had it happen with no lid on the cup.

When paint is not gassed out it will bubble out at the tip of the airbrush without even depressing the trigger. The paint starts to collect on the tip then when you start spraying a wet drop, not atomized sprays onto what you are painting. Look at your tip an you will see it happen.

The order I showed is from Coast Air. I am just saying that if two places sell an airbrush for the same price I will always take the one with free shipping. I have bought a few airbrushes directly from amazon, they do have some of the best prices. Parts are another story, they all charge shipping for parts.

I also spray right into the jar first but after it is too full I switch to the paper cone funnel. The worst stuff for gassing problems is all of Tamiya's clears(TS13,TS79 and TS80). You can spray without gassing out but it is intermittent. When spraying flats not properly gassed out it cause a wet drop on what your painting which is not as flat as the surrounding area. I do sometimes spray small amounts of paint right int the bowls(cups) on my gravity feed airbrushes.

This is not free shipping.

Amazon and chicagoairbrushsupply.com have lower prices than coastairbrush or anybody else. Both have free shipping.

JC was right the decal is silvering, there is air pockets keeping the decal from setting against the model. Try wetting the area under decal with Future it will stick better and eliminate this. Also try a hot damp cloth pressed over the decal to get it to conform. No waiting and no wrinkles. I only use solvents down in door and panel lines. Execess Future can be removed with ammonia or windex. I used this technique on the car below. Only the white is paint.

Been working on this one. It's the Fujimi kit. It took allot of work to get the ride height and stance right, including sanding down the tires and the inside front tire shoulder. allot was done to the chassis and the inside area of the front fenders. The base of the front window needed a section removed to let it sit lower on the dashboard. I made templates fro all the interior pieces of carbon fiber decal(see placement guide photo). All molded in electrical boxes were removed and will be self made with wiring. The molded in extinguisher was also remade as a separate piece. parts do some touch up. The front splitter still needs painted white.

Certainly one of the greatest. Him, Dan Gurney and Bruce Mclaren were my heroes growing up. His lotus 49 was one of the most beautiful Grand Prix cars of all time. here is a very good documentary on him. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY7X9OMbQyg

Here is a video of a 1/3 scale porsche 911 flat six running. The exhaust is pretty amazingly close to a full size engine.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1wpi2o1Q2o

I have had allot of airbrushes. I currently own 2 Iwatas and 2 Neo for Iwatas(trigger action) and a Paasche Talon and Paasche Millenium. I love them all and use them all but the best value because it is a set with three sizes that should cover all your needs is the Paasche Talon TG3-F set. It is currently $102 on Amazon. It has a pre-set needle limiter so you can get a consistent spray pattern like a single action. The parts are very sturdy and easy to find.