ModelcarJR

Painted another body today. An old friend of mine always wanted a Corvette and he said if he ever got one it had to be red! So here's a salute to an old friend who has since passed. It should rub out pretty easily. Dupli-Color Bright Red and two coats of Krylon Clear lacquer. Revealed the BMF foiled Corvette badge with some lacquer thinner and a cotton swab. I'll be back to finish painting and construction later. Just trying to get some bodies painted before winter. Thanks for looking! ?

That is a beautiful build! The paint is superb and the engine looks like it should start up and run! Congrats! ? ?

Nice paint colors and workmanship! These old kits are hard to get right but you did a nice job! ??

Thanks, Bill! I appreciate your thought! I thought about trimming the window down but I don't use a Dremel or any type of rotary sander. Somehow I can't control it. I do have an oscillating sander but it would take forever due to the thickness of the plastic and using a razor saw would probably result in a crack in the windshield. I Thought about using clear acetate but don't know if I could bend it in the right places without a wrinkle. Its a riddle without a good solution.

Paint is Dupli-Color Dark Toreador Metallic on the exterior and Krylon khaki is the base color for the interior with a darker brown acrylic for the two-tone accent. Added plug wires, fuel line, breather hose and the heater hoses were provided in the kit. Decals were non-existent so I added an SS decal on the back and 427 badges on the front fenders from an old Keith Marks sheet. BMF and chrome pen used inside and out. There were a few construction issues but I persevered. Guess I forgot to push the hood down into its lock in the last photo. ?Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Fabrizio and David! i appreciate your comments! David, the windshield is not connected to the back. the problem comes from the extra thick clear plastic that has a big lip at the bottom and big lip at the top. you would think that it should be no problem but I think the extra thickness on the bottom with the interior dash pressing against it under pressure to left the interior panels to the top of the door causes the top to drop inward and down. I think its just poor manufacturing. It would be better to have separate wing windows and separate windshield that just fits in the opening. This one is done! A few problems but i think I whipped the window problem and no marks from the clamps as the paint is cured. I forgot to push the hood down in the lock! More photos in "Under Glass". Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, David and Jeremy! I appreciate your comments! Well, I thought I had the interior problem licked but the windshield continues to give me problems. The glass is too thick and the bottom ledge is in a bind with the dash pushing it and it tries to pull the top out. And it is doing a damn good job of it! I've put the body on the frame 3 times now. In the second photo you can see it is dropping down. I added an old Keith Marks decal to the air cleaner but it is silvering so I will have to remove it and add the funky kit decal. I knocked one of the exhaust pipes off during the process of mounting the body so I had to repair it as well. I am going to leave the clamps on the glass overnight to see if that solves the issue. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Mike, Jim, Joe and Bill! I appreciate your comments! Bill, I am going to leave the ball on the shifter chrome as all of the shift cars that I saw online were chrome shifter balls. I finished the chassis and tried to make the steering poseable but it wouldn't work out. Where I drilled my holes for the tie rod wouldn't let the wheels spindles point out straight and it was sloppy so I just glued everything together. I mocked up the body on and noticed that the inner door panels wouldn't post all the way up in the body. It often happens with these kits that have interiors mounted on the chassis. So I will have to try some glue under the wing window with some clamps to keep it in place until the glue dries. And finally, of course, I knocked out the right side exhaust manifold while I was pushing the body down on the frame up front. So now I get a chance to glue the manifold in again while everything is together. Such fun! Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Carl and David! I appreciate your comments! I have tried BMF before but its hard to keep wrinkles out of the foil on a round angled surface. I see if I can find a Gundam pen. Thanks for the suggestion. Finished the foil and chrome pen on the interior and assembled it. Added some tape to the sides of the chrome console and painted the sides with brown paint. I did add some aftermarket gauge decals but you can't really see them. The plastic glass window for the dash doesn't fit well either. Other than that it went together fine. Thanks for looking! ?

Everything looks good, Justin! Nice work on the paint, foil and using aftermarket parts well. This one will be a winner! ??

Finished painting the interior and this is a mock-up of the basic components. Krylon Khaki is the base light color and I mixed up some Acrylic Brown to lighten it for the accent color. Now I just have to do the detailing with chrome pen and foil and try to do something with the dash gauges. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, David! I appreciate your comment! Completed the engine assembly and added some items. First, I found a pair of 427 chrome valve covers in the parts box, maybe a little big, perhaps 1/24th but I can live with that. Added MAD pre-wired distributor and Pro-Tech wire looms. Glued the wire looms for the two front plugs on each side to the top of the valve covers. Also added a breather hose and fuel line. Blackwashed the aluminum. I wish I had a chrome top for the air cleaner but I don't and painting it with aluminum wouldn't look right. I know someone will suggest painting it with Alclad II chrome lacquer but I have tried it in the past and haven't had good results. Maybe next time. I'll see if i have a 427 decal for the air cleaner in the decal stash. Thanks for looking! ?

I had to touch up the left side, actually, repaint the left side and rub out again, since I exposes some edges while rubbing it out the first time. So now I think I am done with painting and the foil is completed as well. Time to move on to the interior, engine, and chassis. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, All, for your comments! Jason, I'll post any issues that I have but this one is next in line as I am working on the 67 Chevy Impala at the moment. Helmut, thanks for your posting of the correct after-market tires and wheels but by the time I bought them and had them shipped to the U.S., I'm sure it would cost me more than the $20 I have invested in the kit. Then there is removing them from the sprue which looks like a chore, painting the inside of the spokes with chrome paint without globing to much paint on the outside of the spokes and finally, painting the tire with a brush, I suppose. A lot of money and a lot of work. The wheel in the kit does seem a bit big and the tire is wider than I would think it should be. I might use a red-line tire that is a bit taller but skinnier and a wire wheel from an old Chrysler Imperial or a 5 spoke wheel from a 65 Pontiac. I might even have a set of Corvette wheels with three-pronged spinners that would look good. I'll have to see as I start building! Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Jack, Jim, Carl, and Bob! I appreciate your comments! ?

Thanks, All! I appreciate all the nice comments! Rubbed it out and painted the inner fender liners. I have to stop polishing now because I'm starting to rub out edges. Next is foil!

I think you're right, Bob! I need to purchase some decals because what I have wouldn't look right. This one will sit for now until I purchase some decals. Thanks again for looking and thanks for your suggestion!

Here are a few pics of the finished model. Unsure if I should add decals. I don't have many straight-line racer decals and I looked at Slixx but didn't really like much of what was there. Also I am unsure if I need to add the parachute. Would this one really need a parachute? Let me know what you think about the decals and chute. Thanks for looking!

Thanks, Mike, Jim, and Bob! I appreciate your comments! Chassis is done and engine is in. I put the body and interior on as a mock-up to make sure everything is square. I think the back end will sit down a little more and the front end will come up. Still have to install the radiator which should lift the front end a bit. I originally had the headers installed backwards so I reversed them and everything fits much better now. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Justin! I appreciate your comment! Black Silk Matte is the color they suggest for the engine. Hard to see engine block above for me. Exhaust looks gloss black which agrees with the Jaguar instructions. Anthracite is used on the undercarriage and some other parts according to the instructions. I used flat black - I have it and it looks good to me!

Thanks, Carl, David and Peter! I appreciate your comments! Peter, I think that you misunderstood my comments and have mixed apples with oranges, a bit. When I referred to the box sizes I was trying to differentiate the box sizes only - not parts count. The "old" convertible kit pictured above, came in a slender rectangular box and was different from the $2.00 AMT Trophy Series or 3 in 1 kits that are still the same size today. I was trying to say that the "old" kit may have been warped due to manufacture or maybe due to age or storage over the years. It is different from either the hardtop or convertible of today. BTW, the $2.00 kits, like the 1929 Ala Kart, had a lot of parts and was in fact, a double kit. You could build both the Ala Kart and a 1929 Ford Roaster from that kit. When I referred to the European models, I was referring to the instructions. For instance, in the first panel they have four red arrows to tell the builder to mate the two engine halves. Or they have a color called "anthracite". I had to look it up but it means 'coal-like" which I take means black. I realize that they are just trying to sell their paints but it just makes things a bit more difficult than it could be. When you have multiple arrows and multiple color references in the same panel it just gets a little more confusing, even to an "old" builder like me. I prefer the KISS method. Keep it short and simple! I did not intend to make any comment about parts count or quality of either European or American models.

Old paint is gone, primered and painted Dupli-Color Dark Toreador Metallic. i like this much better and it shouldn't take a long time to rub out. Maybe the trunk will need a little work but that's about it. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Carl, Carl, and Mike! I appreciate your comments! Sorry to hear about your short shots, Mike, but I'm glad Revell rectified the issue! I've posted below a couple of photos of the convertible that I built some time ago. I remember that the box it came in was very small much like the $.98 kits that we used to buy when we were kids when we didn't have enough money in our pockets to buy the $1.49 or $2.00 Trophy Series kits. I'm pretty sure that the box said Revell of Brazil as in South America. I thought I saved the box top but I can't find it now. Anyway, the hood was pretty warped and i straightened it out a bunch but its still warped to the left a bit. Thanks for looking! ?

Built the engine and added spark plug wires. Also added Tamiya Smoke to the blower. Noticed that there is a "flying pulley" spinning all on its own. I guess those are injectors on top of the blower. Maybe I should add a fuel log and fuel line as if I know anything about these engines but I don't. So this will probably be the extent of the detail for the engine. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Sonny! I appreciate your comment! Its almost done. One more application of oven cleaner over 24 hours and it should be ready to paint, hopefully, tomorrow.