72 Charger

I have seen in the truck parts forum somwhere that sombody makes them in resin. I cant seem to find it at the moment tho Im sure somone will be able to point you in the right direction.

Good to have you back Bill sorry to hear of your loss .Any chance of an up date ?

Shawn firstly fantastic work . Secondly it looks like the falcon is a Ford granada underneth are you planing to do the changes for europe?

Welcome Jeffrey thats looking good . Ive just built one of those and I put a lowboy on the back to. I like what you did with the wheels

Thats a good looking lonestar nice colors

WoW thats very ORANGE

Very cool Im working on an old 55 P/U at the moment you just gave me the insperation to get back to it . Well done on what Chevy should of done

Here in the UK a lot of model shops are closing simply becuse its cheeper to sell on the net . You have to take into account the running cost of a shop rent electric gas before you even get some models to sell!

Thanks very much for that Bill thats extreamly helpfull .Im only putting some dents in a body its just handy to know when to remove the heat .As i dont want to burn the workshop down

Can anybody help I need to know at what temp does styren melt before it bursts into flames? Thanks in advance Dave

Thanks guys

Yes I drill them out and use brass rod . The fronts dont seem to break tho odd!

Watch out for the axel pins that go into the wheel backs they can snap as soon as you look at them . Also watch how much glue you use on them to or you will weld the breaks on

Steve its a fairly easy car to biuld there is some sink marks on the trunk and on the top of the front fenders that need filling . Ive made a new hood hinge as the kit one isnt very good and ive moved the gun sight orniment from the nose to the hood as its ment to be.Its simple to lower as well becuse the axels are those metal rods. yes it would be possible to make the station wagon to a custom hard top . The only thing is the glass is in one peice so opening the tailgate would be tricky. My body shell was a bit warped so that had to be put right and once its put together its not noticeable . I hope this helps you

Thanks very much everyone I enjoyed this one if I get another I will open the doors and trunk

Welcome Darren you may want to chat to Tim Ahlborn (mackinac359) He is a mine of info on peterbilts and a great modeler too. Just a few things to be aware of when biulding the revell trucks . Just be carefull of the axel pins and the hood hinges they snap very easily . The Chrome will wear off if its handeled to much . But they are good kits and biuld into very accurate rigs . Hope to see pictures of your biuld soon

Thanks Jim /Bill I put the foil on the body before the paint so that i could polish through the paint and just leave the chrome badges. This may have been done before but it was a first for me and I will be doing it again becuse it worked so well (No more painting badges for me) Thanks for the interest guys Dave

WOW two in one weekend how do you dry your paint ? There must be a fingerprint somwhere ? Great looking pair you have there he he

Hi all well after what seems like a life time I have finaly finish my 65 conni and I think its come out rarther well let me know what you think Dave

looks great in yellow n black but your air can needs some BMF on the bands

Fair play to you thats mega cool very realistic .Im sure the mack will reseve the same attention to detail . How will you beef up the chassis?

That is really cool . It deserves to come down from shelf to bench . What was it that caused you to stop ? Dave

Hi mike thanks for the pics of your coe pete it looks great for a 20 year build

Hi all please show us all your peterbilt 352 coe's

Alain I love those Macks you did a great job on them before and after the damage . Could we have a closer look at the dozer in the background please.