Mike_G

I am repulsed on a cellular level by Family Guy.

People also put reissue parts in an original box.

That's very true- I was referring more to bare plastic prep.

Watch out for lanolin and fragrance in 70% isopropyl alcohol- lanolin in particular can cause problems Definitely avoid any labeled as "rubbing" alcohol, as that's normally the type with lanolin added to avoid drying out yer skin I get the 92% stuff to be safe and as an added benefit it works great for thinning Tamiya acrylics for airbrushing

I'm only in it for the trophy girls.

You bet it lowers the value of the original issue kits- two recent examples spring to mind, Tamiya's 1/12 Ferrari 312B and Monogram's 1/16 Peterbilt 359. I've sold both original issue kits on eBay before and after they were reissued and they brought substantially more before.

I fixed it- thanks for the heads-up. http://thesurfonics.com/music.html

Seems like last year there were lots of "rat rods" and this year I haven't seen hardly any at NW model contests. Any thoughts?

I still have my early '70s BC Rich Seagull I bought in 1981 for $500 (which was a lot of money for me back then) It's probably worth about $4k today I recorded a full-length CD of my original surf tunes with it in 2004- you can hear what it sounds like here: http://thesurfonics.com/music.html

I bought a sterling silver and 14K gold vintage Western belt buckle made by Newman's silver shop in Reno that was attached to an old leather belt for $1 at the Goodwill.

The decal sheet from my Doyusha 1:12 Lamborghini LP500 has some Playboy bunny decals, those are pretty rare I also like the scallop decals in the Galaxie '46-'48 Chevy kits, they'll work on a number of other cars.

It ends with them asking you for money.

I agree, it looks very realistic.

I have a little video of my odometer turning over for the 3rd time at 400,000 miles.

My brake master cylinder is starting to go on my '80 Ford Fiesta, which only has 456,000 miles on it.

Here's a pic I took right after I set it up, I've since changed the rockwork around to create 3 distinct territories rather than 2, which I've found helps to manage aggression: -Mike

Here's an old pic of the 37G before I set up the 55, the fish in the pic are now in the 55: Here's a fairly recent pic of the 55: I built the stand and canopy myself, the canopy uses CFL lamps and offers a lot of flexibility- here's a pic showing more subdued lighting:

Vreeble was a crackle finish paint produced by Metalflake Co. in the '70s-'80s and is no longer available to my knowledge. Check out "crackle nail polish" on eBay.

Sounds like you're trying to replicate "Vreeble"?

Thanks for looking! -Mike

I currently have a 55G, a 37G, and a 10G set up for breeding and rearing African cichlids. My stocklist in the 55G is: "Electric yellow" Labidochromis (1M, 2F, one female has bred several times and is very prolific, the other female is young and has yet to breed) Aulonocara Jacobfreibergi "Hongi Island" (1M, 1F, they've spawned 3-4 times now) Cyrtocara Moorii (1M, 1F, getting close to spawning age) Placidochromis Electra (2M, 1F, the dominant male has been courting the female, I'm hoping they'll spawn soon) Pseudotropheus Demasoni (1M, he's a terror but a gorgeous specimen. My pet bird is fascinated by him and says "fishy" when he comes over to the side of the tank nearest her little play area. She hates the male yellow lab and tries to bite at him through the glass.) Giant Danio (1?, had two but one jumped out of the tank, I like to keep them with Africans as "dither fish" since they're very active and tend to distract the cichlids from their usual course of aggression) My 37G serves as a grow-out tank and currently has 5 yellow lab juvies, 6 Jacobfreibergi juvies, and 2 Giant Danios and I've got ~15 yellow lab juvies and 6 Jakes in the 10G. I sell yellow labs to the local tropical fish shops when they are about 1-1/4" for $2 apiece, which pays for food.

I have an old "zerostat" gun that works great, but they're expensive nowadays.

The stock 10A rotary engine in those would turn 10,000 rpm.

An automatic centerpunch is great for releasing the pressure from rattlecans.

If you use Micro-set when you apply your decals, be sure to wait at least a couple of days for any residue to fully evaporate before clearcoating over them- the acid in Micro-set can react with your clearcoat causing the decals to bubble up or get pinholes.