hedotwo

Thanks for all the replies.... I was only curious as to which kit I may have used them from. They are pretty versatile with both sized whitewalls though. I knew they were AMT, and they had to be relatively new. Lately I've been doing more late 60's or early to mid 70's printed stuff and can use differing styles of tires that were used in that time period. I know that the Supremes faded out at some point but I still like them as some of the better detailed kit tires. Often it seems the tires and wheels included in these printed kits are off quite a bit for 1/25, more like 1/24 or even a bit larger.

Never knew about that site, thanks!

Thanks Mark

Would anyone know which kit to find these 1/25 tires? One side narrow, the other wide. Likely a new kit by their condition. Thanks!

Great tip Greg! I use my H quite often and this'll be a nice change.

I wouldn't be surprised at all if it was a bit smaller than 1/25, even some styrene kits aren't accurate. I have quite a few printed kits in my stash and only a few of them scale out perfectly to 1/25. The remainder are mostly 1/26 and maybe a hair smaller than that even. I collect primarily full sized cars built factory stock, so having a big Cad or Imperial scale out a bit smaller is ok with me. Personally I'd much rather have them 1/26 than closer to 1/24. If all body dimensions are scaled correctly, just a bit small, I'm ok with that especially considering all these printed kits I have (and will get) are subjects I can't get in styrene. Beggars can't be choosy I guess.

Just out of curiosity, it sure seems like most all 3d prints (at least the ones I've built and have in my stash) have a deep-ish diagonal line on the front fenders and then another in front of the rear fender wheel wells. Not impossible to deal with but just wondering why they're there. I know nothing much about the printing process. Thanks!

Thanks for all the nice comments... I appreciate it! Take care

I have a long-ish reply to a member that I can't seem to send. I keep getting the "ooops page not found errror". I sent him a short one that appears to have gone through however. Is there a word limit to a PM?

The printed bodies I've done so far have all required more sanding than styrene obviously. It's probably the biggest drawback but it can be done if you have patience. Each one I build I get better at it. I also use Mr Surfacer 500 as my first primer coat. It's a bit heavier primer and I find it helps with the little fine printer lines you might miss. I just recieved another order from Diolex (the GP was bought last year) and the three kits all seem to be somewhat smoother but still look to need a fair amount of sanding. I'm currently prepping a 70 Cad Deville convertible and spent yesterday aft sanding. I'd say it's almost close enough to prime. There always seems to be a printer line that's usually obvious on the top of the front fenders, behind the wheels. I know next to nothing about how these are printed but those are the spots that take the most effort to correct. At least for me.

Overall happy with this one, but not without problems along the way that I didn't go back to correct. It's now in the display case and I'm relieved it's over. Nice kit from Diolex and went together ok but had the usual wrestling with fit and finish. Scalefinishes 68 Pontiac Nightshade Green airbrushed with Tamiya Racing While (flattened with semi gloss afterwards) for the vinyl top. Thanks for looking.

Thanks John

Yes, the Johan. I couldn't find the kit instructions for the 67 online.

Are the headlights, grille, and front bumper separate pieces or are some attached to each other?

Today's mail.... I'm speechless. I think it was here in this thread that someone mentioned these headlights from Scale Productions in Germany. After reading the post I looked it up and decided to give them a shot. I ordered two of each size as long I was paying shipping and was planning on having to wait for them anyway. I can't believe the quality of these... they look like real headlights. I hope the pics show the quality. Not too long a wait either. It was 4/24 when I ordered and they arrived this morning.

Great save!

Thank you Mark

I put a bit of this Clear Grip on a piece of styrene and an old junk windshield to see what might happen. 24 hrs later I saw no fogging or discoloration around the sample spots. I was able to remove one of each by pulling on it with a tweezers and it came off kind of like gum, but I wouldn't say it pulled off easily. Underneath you can see it was biting into both the clear and the white sheet. Not bad, but it was there. I also did a test with E6000 clear adhesive (from Hobby Lobby) and the results were similar.

Thoughts? Thanks!

Congrats Trevor! Looks great!

You brought up a great point. It does say it's not recommended for polystyrene and to also avoid "finished" surfaces. I admit I have used it on styrene parts on a couple of occasions but only on small parts, only on one of the two surfaces and used very little of the adhesive, and didn't notice anything adverse. But.... that's been my experience with using it on styrene so take it for what that's worth and use your own judgement whether to use it or not. As I mentioned, my last two builds have been printed resin and they're the two that I found this stuff to be very useful. I think I'll do a bit of testing on some scrap styrene this morning and use different amounts to see what happens. I'll give them a day and reply here with what I find.

Yes it's a typical contact cement that you'd normally apply to both surfaces and wait a period of time before mating. For me anyway, this has been working really well by applying it as you would a typical glue. The pieces I've been using it on really don't need the extra strength you'd get from applying it like the directions say. I've had the need to disassemble these pieces occasionally after finding the fit isn't what I wanted. A good example is when I've assembled the 3d printed interiors for resin printed kits. I've got a thing for making sure the door panels sit where they should in relationship to the body and that requires a fair amount of trial and error. I've used small bits of blue tack but this cement works so much better in that it holds fairly quickly (important) and allows you time to move things around and even pull apart if needed to reposition (more important to me). I've been able to take pieces apart the next day without trouble. The adhesive it leaves is kind of rubbery but can be removed with not much effort. For me, I'd say this stuff is somewhere between an Elmers type white glue and typical superglue. I still use either epoxies, superglue, or regular Tamiya styrene cement for the majority of assembly but this has it's place when prefitting stuff.

This has been the only Gorilla stuff I've used for modeling. I have used their mounting tapes however and they work pretty well for that.

Before I was retired I only had a couple of hours a day at the most on the bench between long work hours and plain old life. I've been retired now for 7 years and now have easily 6 hours a day or more to spend on the hobby. While working, I only worked on one at a time and it worked well. Now I will usually have 2 or 3 going which keeps me always busy even with drying paint and drying adhesive. Having a few going at the same time also keeps things fresh on longer, detailed builds.

For what it's worth, I use my dehydrator often but I don't put stuff in right away after painting but rather give the paint time to settle in the open air beforehand... maybe an hour or two. Not sure why it would make a difference but maybe the dehydrator dries the top too quickly and kind of keeps the lower coats from drying sufficiently?? I use a hand hair dryer between light coats to gently dry them before heavier coats. Works good for me.