hedotwo

Thanks to all the great suggestions I went to HL yesterday and picked up the 68 Revell Charger. In addition to all the running gear (which fits perfectly except for the driveshaft which is no worry) and engine I also am able to use the outside door handles and some other bits. And 40% off 😉

Lacking a dedicated scale ruler I use the tool on Online Scale Converter Tool - Scale Modelers World often. Works great for me.

Thanks for all the great info!

Good idea!

I have a few resin cars from the 50's that the dimension are off. Other than just eyeballing where the differences are, and how to go about trying to correct, does anyone know of a website that might have these types of dimensions for various makes from the '50's? Not just length, width, and height. Those are easy to find. Guessing not, but thought I'd ask. I can just trust my eyeballs between the resin bodies and real photos. Thanks!

Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing!

Quite a bit of difference in wheelbase between the chargers and the chrysler. I'll stick with just trying to find suspension that'll work with this chassis. I know it'd need a longer driveshaft which is no problem and I'd go with the 440. Thanks

It's an All American resin 70 Chrysler 300. Have all but the suspension and engine. I'm not too concerned with the underside being exact to the 300. Just so it sits right and looks close.

More good info... thanks Chris. Hopefully I can find one at Hobby Lobby or similar. Hate to spend too much for donor parts 😉

Is the 71 AMT Charger something that might be available at a Hobby Lobby?

Wow... great thanks!

I have this resin chassis that needs the suspension and rear axle donated to complete it. Any ideas where it might have come from? Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion of the 54 wheels, but I'm really liking the look of the smooth 55 covers, even if I have to try and make them myself somehow. Those 54's sure look like the tri-spoke AMT covers used in some late 50's annuals. Maybe the 54 is where they got the idea for them.

Very interesting!

Any clear will work fine and it really depends on the sheen (or lack of) you're looking for. Mixing this paint isn't rocket science IMO. I've used washer fluid for a long time and never really had any issues with the way it lays, other than the way I do it takes a while to get suffiecient coverage and using a hair dryer eliminates long waits between coats. I've found craft paints to dry really quickly and if you want you can toss it into a dehydrator if you want to make sure before clearing. I usually clear after an hour or so and have never had a problem. But others may have had different experiences with drying. Not saying mine is the correct one just that it works for me. This stuff lays thin and it's delicate afterwards so clearing is important. I just keep adding a bit more fluid til I get it to the consistency of maybe 1% milk and my airbrush does fine. Easy to just dip a toothpick into the paint mix til it drips easily. Anything thicker and I've found I have trouble with clogging, although I haven't tried using a retarder of any kind. Last, I tend to like Folk Art paints best. A bit more expensive (still really cheap though) but I've found their pigments mix easier. Good luck.

I often use craft acrylics for interiors because like you said you can get them to match pretty close by mixing colors easily. I use windshield washer fluid to thin and try to just get the mix to drip easily off a toothpick. Be prepared to put lots of thin coats on and I use a hair dryer on low to get the coats to dry quickly. The way I do it takes a while to get to the coverage I need. Afterwards I spray a semi gloss clear or just leave as is depending on the build. I spray at around 15-20psi and just make sure you either mix REALLY well or use a filter to strain the paint before spraying because depending on your nozzle the tip can clog easily if not mixed well.

Would anyone have a set of 1/25 1954 Buick Roadmaster wheel covers, or know of any resin or 3d printed sets? No chrome or bad chrome not a problem. Thanks!

Thanks!

I have to agree that I too would be very interested in buying sheets of 50's through 70's scripting and emblems. I've been getting into printed models more and more and have always wondered why these details aren't added when printed. I just figured it may have something to do with licensing. Maybe the files don't include them and some sellers don't know how, or take the time to add them. I only build factory stock and these details are really important to me. I even considered decals, worst case (gulp!!)

After 52 years of marriage I've learned to do the same.... just agree and walk away 😉

I agree with Les about the high build primer. I've used Mr Surfacer 500 primer on a few of the 3D prints and while it doesn't eliminate sanding, it definitely helps fill the light lines.

Good point mentioning sanding lightly before painting. Makes a big difference on how well the paint lays and stays.

FWIW, I sometimes use airbrush craft paints (usually FolkArt) for paints that I want to try and get real close. Mixing these paints are easy to come up with your color and yield an acceptable finish.

Nice build and great subject!

Beautiful job Tom! Super paint and foiling.