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Everything posted by NormL
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I have owned many of those Datsun roadsores, very fun little cars. Can't wait to see the progress
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Very very cool. Great work
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Simply amazing work
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As someone who does this kind of work, I can tell you this is 100% correct. Right now scanning is the easy part. I want to finish my Ariel Atom as a kit even knowing the massive effort it is going to take. I already have taken quite a bit and modeled it too. I will get around to it, but, for right now there are just not enough hours in the day. With the printers that are available to the masses right now, I will guess $150 for the 1/24th scale at Shapeways in FUD. It is a tiny car without all of the big body structure that will make the model more expensive too. Model printing cost are an exponential cost too. Let's us say for example I have a model I have done at 1/24th scale and I want to upscale it to 1/12th, no big deal, if it prints at 1/24th it will print at 1/12th with no re-engineering. That is not where it gets you though, it is the cost. You are making it twice as big in three dimensions, so, 2x2x2 or eight times the material cost. So that little $20 frame at 1/24th is now $160 at 1/12th. You can manipulate the material thickness of one of the dimensions, but, the best you could ever hope for is a cost factor of 4.
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It took me an hour to design and order the plastic one on Shapeways ... Yes, metal is better
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Scratch Building an Aussie Ford Falcon **New update,15/1/18**
NormL replied to ShawnS's topic in WIP: Model Cars
WOW, that is incredible work. I wandered over to the model side for 3D printing ideas and you have given me a bunch, thanks for that (now the colossal search for time can start). Your ability to manipulate plastic just flat amazes me. You can print with your hands -
That is freakin' awesome! Little things that work are so cool. Can I ask how thick the material is?
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Good point! They were not sprued, but, I had packed them all close together into one blob.
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Got the motion up on YouTube. Sorry if this seems like I am beating it to death ... Both of these are in 1080 and the detail is much easier to see at that resolution
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You can print with your hands. Astounding work
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Joesph, I guess I am spoiled by the consistency of their sintered plastics. I have never had a consistency issue with them. A couple of weeks ago I thought that I wanted a phone case so I measured up my phone and sent it in. Since the sintered plastics are a hard shell I made the tolerances tight. Granted that FUD are tighter than the WSF products, but, the phone case was exactly what I expected.
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I would agree with you that it was orientation, ... well except, I cheated. I printed all three models in one stl and kept them just below 1 million faces. All had to be printed with the same orientation. Thanks for the links
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Some screen shots of the model it was printed from for reference.
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The 1/8th scale was a complete success which is the reason that I am a little perterbed about the 1/4th scale print. The gaps are exactly the same between these two prints ... The scope rotates and so does the base and focus. Nothing else was designed to function at this scale. Don't worry Scale Master, I did not sacrifice accuracy for function once in these prints. 1/8th pics: The 1/12th scale print suffers from some of the same grainy issues as the 1/4th scale does. It also has nothing functioning, which, at this scale was only the main body and scope. 1/12th pics: The big lesson here is the gaps do work as printed, when the printer has the alignment correct and all of the nozzles firing. At least that is my understanding after reading the Shapeways forums. I am going to leave these as sulpture only on the Shapeways site and if they print with motion great. I will search for a less production driven printer for the Atom "kit"
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I haven't posted for a while as I was testing different spacing for bearings with the FUD printing process at Shapeways. My conclusion is that Shapeways is too inconsistent to print with motion in mind. I will get prints that look great and others that are very grainy. The ones where the material looks grainy are always problematic on motion the ones that look smooth are the ones that will work. Reading on their forums it sounds like they can fix this but do not regard themselves as "Engineering" grade only art grade. I will print things in FUD on Shapeways, but, no more will I expect motion from what comes from them. I will be using a different place for those prints and will probably try Chief Joesph's "Moddler.com" that I saw he was using. I printed three different sizes of a Wild T3 surveying instrument a 1/4th, 1/8th and a 1/12th. I got three very different results. The 1/4th has a grainy outer texture over portions of it and some of the knobs spin and others do not. From Shapeways three of the knobs that were supposed to spin were broken off and in the bag. The main scope does not turn nor does the main body. All of the knobs on the tribrach spin and both mirrors spin. The focus rotates and the three adjustments on the back rotate. The micro tangent door at the base swings open to a spinning micro tangent. If this were printed and packaged better it would be sooo cool. . 1/4th pics:
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Great work! it is a pleasure to check in and see what new has been done
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Well the badges for the Scarab are already on the car. They are under hood and mounted on temporary mounts as it will be a bit before the car is painted. I never placed the Atom badge as it is just too cheap looking. What is the exterior plastic chroming process?
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No, but, my guess is that you are much closer than what I tried. If you try it, please post your results.
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Your work is awesome, I am curious where you get the dimensions from? Being a Land Surveyor and a 3D guy I can't help but wonder.
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I have been beating my head against the wall with these software's. I have not yet gotten a result that I would use. OK, I am a laser scanning guy, but, I wanted to test this for small objects as I do not have a small object scanner. I currently have three scanners for buildings and areas. I placed an object in the center of a garage that has fairly bright high bay lighting. I then printed the scanning mat from 3DSom as a 30" circle on my plotter and placed the object on a table in the center of the garage on the mat. I used a mobile white backing so that the background was not in the photos. Nothing useful. Now the issue appears to be lighting as the high bays were not enough and I will now have to get my lighting and green screen kit back from my brother for yet another try. From what I have seen so far I am far from optmistic Frank I did look at that link and I can't help but notice that no specs exist. Kind of would expect that lack of specs at an announcement, so, no surprise. I have been eying the http://www.nextengine.com/ scanner. If I had a commercial need I would be all over it, but, by the time I would order all that I would need it is right around 8K. Bit pricy for a toy, I need that commercial need. And, yes you would want the RapidForm suite
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Very cool!
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3-D Printing is now affordable
NormL replied to Darren B's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I printed this at Shapeways.com It truly is just amazing technology, I got the bolts on the tops of the wheels to show up -
Sorry, Mike, I never got anything I wanted, so, I didn't try. Download the 14 day trial of 3DSom, its more fun ...
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Joesph, I came to same same conclusions as yourself, that the detail was not there. I am attributing it to not being able to solve the seven parameters of camera placement in the 3D world as accurately as needed. I have the ability to physically place the camera focal points at the exact same point as my laser scanners. Then by solving the locations of the laser scanners through cloud manipulation, solve the exact x, y, and z of the cameras. The other parameters are a bit more problematic. I don't think their software will allow for the alignment of photos without touching the x, y and z. I am curious if 3DSom will allow that. Then there are the mathematics of the lens. Another method to try would be to print an alignment sheet of radial dashed lines and place the object in the center of it. Doing this would allow for longer arms in the geometry. Using the radial lines for alignment would give you much better control of individual photo alignment, I know the 3DSom software suggests this.