Blown03SVT

Sean I have seen your work, if those do not win contest's then I have no ambition to ever try to enter a contest

It doesn't really cut down on assembly time in my opinion. It seems to be a must for some of the warped kits I have had lately to help straighten them out during mock up and final assembly

For a cage probably .060 or .080 round rod. I just did a cage in .080 and it was my first time and it turned out pretty good after some trial and error. Scales out to 2" tubing. I am getting into scratch building more and most of the items you will need are based on what you are trying to accomplish. Reference photos, a caliper, super glue, plastic welder (ambroid, tenax) and a miter box with a saw is a good place to start IMO. The plastic, aluminum, brass, etc. are the easy items.

http://www.scalemodelingbychris.com/smbc_aftermarketp1.htm Scoll half way down the page. SMBC is great to deal with just odered some items from them and they look pretty good.

The best forum, and the most active. Just by searching through the old threads I have learned so much.

Scale models by chris (SMBC) has them in resin so you do not have to poach from a good kit

Joe... definitely use the link Roger posted. So many different ways to skin that cat. Very polar topic... we all screw up sometimes right?

Bookmarked... lots 'o great links. Thank!

The flame job is wicked! Looking forward to more

That wouldn't be too much of an issue, I guess I need to google some dimensions. I figured someone had probably built one before or had a link to a resin cast one.

Pinning is very effective as well. Anyone else use sewing pins or am I the only one? One pin can be cut multiple times to create several mock up pins. I think a box of 200 cost me $2.00 at Wally World in the textiles section.

Tourmaline is a water proof grease used on ships... never knew it would be a color of paint. And it looks great on that car! Nice work

Harry it seems as though your call might have been one of many which caused them to go back and review the product. They now seem to have rogered up there is still some inventory out there that has the crappy glue.

I'm a sucker for anything orange. Very nice!

Looks good... wish they would re-issue this one

Looking for a tutorial on how to scratchbuild the old Holley Blue fuel pumps and filter assembly's, or possibly a link to a resin caster that is currently selling them. Thanks in advance!

funny but true. Seriously being a laquer base I would think the cheapo 91% alcohol from the drug store would work fine, as would easy off

It is the nature of the beast.The glue gives off gases as it cures. Some less than others. Seems everyone has their own brand they like to use. I typically use the stuff you can buy anywhere... Gorilla Glue brand, and some light weight brushable stuff made by Permatex that purple and goes clear as it cures. For me those two brand rarely fog, I use them for 80% of my assembly and the other 20% is usually 5 minute epoxy and Tenax. Once in a blue moon I use Testors liquid or Ambroid tube glue but that is for certain situations.

Brake fluid is not a petroleum product. It rinses off squeeky clean. A wash with some Dawn an air dry and ready to re-prime

Norbert your cars inspire me to push me out of my comfort level with the Pro Stock project I am working on. Yet another super nice build!

Eiliens Tacky Glue, or the cheap brushable super glue in small quantity. The stuff I use is thin, purple in color and is not a super strong bond especially when used sparingly.

Buick: fast with class! Looks like a great start

You want a shake and bake kit, buy the Japanese kits. RM and AMT have some good kits if they are not warped. Some of the really old kits are a bear such as the 57 flip nose Vette and the Malco 33 Willys. As a model builder things take time. Test fit, be creative in problem solving and be patient! If you get frustrated, walk away and pick it up when you regain composure. If it were easy everyone would do it and what fun would that be.

I never knew that... I always figured it was Ford dark shadow grey.

I usually do not have issues with adhesion except maybe corners lifting from handling. I foil before waxing the paint as the wax adds slickness and I have always believed that could lead to adhesion issues. If the corners lift I usually burnish it back down and put a small dab of Future applied with a cotton swab to hold it down.