Blown03SVT

Hector, thanks for posting pics of whats in the box. Looking forward to seeing a build of that little black monster in the last picture. That thing is scary nasty!

Sounds like a ticket from a LEO waiting to happen. Someone will buy it though

50 watt would be over kill for what you are looking to solder. I am thinking legs of LED's and small gauge wire. A basic iron should be able to do what you need it to do. You not doing micro/ miniature repair. I have an old Weller, I think it's a 12 watt model and you can replace the tips with pencil tips if need be. Seriously, go look at Radio Shack for one that can use different tips. It's for a some times use, not how you make your bread and butter ($) so it should work out fine for you if you can solder well enough.

Another http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37867&st=0&p=390035&hl=struts&fromsearch=1&#entry390035

IMO I would knock the chrome shine down with semi gloss clear. C5 wheels are a popular swap on 1:1 3rd gen f-bodies, just as LT1 and LS1 swaps.

you could use one of these? http://www.micromark.com/TOUCH-N-FLOW-APPLICATOR,7841.html I have some hypo needles WITH CAPS that I asked one of the Corpsman I used to work with if I could have them.

Bondo stickers right where the bondo has to be! I was a little kid in the early 80's and remember s hot rod beaters like this. Neat concept for a build.

The book will be of great use as a resource if the guys above get their wish to come true

Greg thanks for that site... quite a few great products there

nice score!

glad I could help! Micro Mesh was the original kit I bought in 2000. I have had it all this time. I always wet sand so they have lasted quite awhile.

Great work! Proof that a great result can be achieved if you have the ambition to push through.

x2

Wondering if the from bicycle wheels are going to be the clear disc's with the spoke engraved in them. For a kit by far better looking than the wire wheels in the 22 Jr kits.

I am assuming this would boil down to using what you like or prefer and using it often. Both sounds like they would do the trick.

Buying direct from Micro Mesh is sometimes cheaper: http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=272_4_75_81

Best tip I have read in a long time! Thanks Bill

You asked if it was a 350... externally it wouldn't matter if it was a 283 or a 400. Small Block Chevy's all look the same. I enjoyed this kit myself, and it's actually kind of different in the fact that it has a narrowed rear with leaf springs instead of the typical 4 link that was all the rage with pro streeters.

#1- Alclad- IME, not extremely tough to use, takes some proficiency to get a feel for using it. Seems to be fairly durable to me but I don't get crazy with handling either. It's a coating on plastic... it will rub through just the same as kit chrome or other paints. #2- Scribing open panels- I use different tools for different situations, no one tool is the perfect tool. #11 blade is the old school tried and true method. I also have scriber tools, and dental picks as well as a razor saw. At least no one is still using an Auto World hot knife to open panels. #3- Fine line masking- I am not much for complicated paint jobs. If i need fine tape I make it out of painters tape. Put a strip down on a sheet of glass lay down a machinist rule and cut with a #11 blade.

Seemed to me it's been peaceful around here lately after the temporary forum shut down. This post starts flame fanning where there is no fire

I have a double ended scriber that was made by Squadron years ago (the only one I can find now are single ended). Looks like a dental pick/ scriber (probably is). The one side has been filed to a narrower, sharper for trying to keep line narrow and the other is as shipped. The gives me options depending on what I am working on. I have also used a razor saw succesfully as well as the back side of a #11 blade. Again with the blade I give it a few swipes on the backside at about a 45* angle with a flat file to narrow it just a touch. I have had issues in the past where scribing has lead to panel lines that looked like they would be about .5" in 1/25th scale, so I narrow the tools to give a finer line. On a 1/16th scale that shouldn't be much issue though Of note... go slow and light. I have never not been able to scribe panel lines with out having at least one jump out the groove that I have had to fill. The lightness of hand mitigates the severity of the opps make the repair much easier.

wish I could like this post! LOL

social media isn't going any where... it is here to stay. Sorry fellas. But if you come here those that use it will update as has been done in this thread

Ahh, got it. I will keep my eyes peeled for it today