Blown03SVT

I imagine the new SSP Fox body Mustang coming from RM will have a NICE T-5 in it. If there is a C4 Corvette 1990 or earlier it would also have a WC T-5 in it if I recall correctly

Did you recoat in the proper window of time? If it is not fish eyes it actually looks like solvent popping to me.

Those Centerlines are clost to what is in the AMT Pro Street 66 Nova and the 88-90 AMT CK1500 trucks. For the life of me I cannot remember what they are called, but I remember seeing them on a 64 Nova that Lil John Buttera built for his kid The Ansen Jellybeans are in the Monogram early Iron Street Rods (29 Roadster Truck is one that comes to mind) RM 1966 Royal Pontiac GTO for the Hurst mags, more than likely they scale out to 14" though

HE ORDERED IT WITH BLACK WALL TIRES INTENTIONALLY AND AS SOON AS THE CAR ARRIVED, HE REMOVED THE BLACK WALLS AND PUT THE FANCY TIRE OF THE DAY ON THE CAR WHICH WAS A DOUBLE WHITE WALL WITH A BLUE STRIPE. It's obvious some modifications were made, even if they are not all listed NOT DRIVEN SINCE THE MID-1980S I interpret this as the car was taken out for late night bonzai runs so as not to be seen, and when the car was stored it was in the same place in the same way for all those years. If Bloomington has looked at the car they should be the ones to have verified the pedigree of the car. Makes for a great story regardless. The car is a low mileage mid year Corvette, in great survivor condition and all documentation. That could say enough. However if the car hadn't been registered for so long who is to say the speedo cable was not unhooked while he was out on those late night runs.

Good call on the engine JB. I had no idea they were all 4 bangers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opel_GT

Well if you have covered all the basic bass I would have to agree with Slusher's idea with masking the parts during assembly. Works on 1:1 cars should work in scale as well. I would use a low tack tape (blue painters or Tamiya) just to be safe

I've seen these bilt in scale and 1:1 with rotories and so forth. I am not a tuner fella myself... I enjoy the feeling of torque personally. The Integra is a neat idea. Reminds me of a You Tube video I have seen with a tube framed RWD LS1 powered Honda Civic EK hatch.

WOW! That was totally unexpected. Thats different. I was expecting a tuner style build

Poor mans Corvette? The kit looks great. I might pick one up just for the little extra's included and a fun build.

That's actually a 63 isn't it? Looks good btw!

I am assuming enamel paints? If that is the case they are much softer than laquers or acrylics. Maybe a bonding problem from the intial prep? It sounds rudimentary but the parts should always be washed with a good cleaner prior to prime and paint to remove oils and sanding dust. Do you paint and then mock up? Try to have all mocking and fitting done prior to painting to avoid handling so much and wearing the painted finish off. Those are things I can think of off the top of my head at the moment.

reminds of the C3 Stingray wagon (shooting brake)

I didn't even catch that at first. Sweet build

IMO the number one thing is COLOR! Does it grab you attention? (ask you local LEO about red cars) Is it different? How many red 69 Camaro's, 32 Deuce's. and Italian sports cars does the world really need? Next would be how it is finished. Is the paint smooth? To thick? Do the details show through? does the foil or detail painting look right? Do the details look realistic? And here is another for stance (Ace hit the nail on the head)... RM's newer Shelby Cobra Mustangs make me cringe because the ride height and rolling stock jack up what is essentially a great kit. Those are the things from a glance that draw someone in I think. All the photo etched doo dads in the world are not going to fix poor workmanship and details that are out of fidelity.

Most likely some high end detailer someplace in the middle east I would assume.

I actually detail cars as another hobby of mine. Spending this much on a wax is ridiculous. It boils down to spending frivilously. I have quite a few products in my arsenal that do exactly what they are intended to do. And for anyone who trys to perfect paint be it in scale or 1:1 knows the wax does nothing to beautify if the prep isn't perfect. You can try to fill the swirls and micro marring with a glaze but at a loss of durabilty and a temporary fix. A little time paying attention to detail with color sanding, coumpound and polish is what makes the difference for that carnuba or sealant to not only protect but intensify gloss, depth and clarity of paint. Edit: I realized it said protection for up to 4 months. No thanks I will keep my Collinite 845 which can go well past 12 months of protection.

Excellent point!

Brad, mIne is the newer one with the black car with the true fire decals. Ken it wasn't that tough to figure out I just figured it would be a shake and bake kit to relight the fire after a tough build.

Niko I revived the thread searching for idea's on how to fix the old school chassis. I had intentions of building mine in the typical R/W/B AMC color scheme as a Hurst S/S car. The front suspension stopped me dead in my tracks. I even looked for donor chassis's and ended up buying an old MPC Matador but never opening the kit as the project got shelved for other things.

Was just reading Todds post and thinking about the motor. If this car had EFI, with the compound boost and the nitrous injection it would have been a insano ride for sure instead of Pro Fairgrounds.

Thanks Roger. I didn't know it wasn't available anymore. I have had a bottle on my work bench for years which thankfully hasn't evaporated that much. I never seems to need a ton of it so a little has always gone a long way. Did the manufacture go out of buisness or was it because of VOC reasons?

Along those lines. You could go use paper clips, brass or aluminum rod, etc. I use cut down sewing pins which I cut with diagonal pliers. The sewing pins are really cheap and really strong, almost as if they have a "temper" to them. The key is to what ever you use to have it fit snug in the drilled hole. Edit: found a tutorial for you http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61639&hl=pinning

Tenax and CA with accelerator for adhesives and pinning for major structural points

I started to build this car a while back and ran into the same problem with the front suspension. Looking to see how you solve the problem.

Awesome idea! There is a guy around here in my area that has an Army Drab flat painted ones with wheels much like your mock up ones that are flat blacked. IIRC the car has LS4 out of a newer GXP Grand Prix, and the transaxle I beleive. I remember as a kid reading in Hot Rod Magazine about swapping a small block Chevy into a Fiero, even G.M. got into the game with a Northstart powered Fiero. Very cool, looks like you might have done one of these swaps in 1:1 before.