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I really like it Drew. Maybe some period correct spare tires on top of the truck is all I would change. I think resin copies are available.

The rear suspension bits are complete. I will still need to make some rear brakes.

Very nice Dale.

Outstanding.

Do yourself a favor and buy Bill Coulter's book. It has a wealth of information about building NASCAR models and includes some very nice wiring & plumbing diagrams. I refer to my copy all the time.

I don't know about your build but your post title gets me a little excited.

Casey, Yes the wheels & tires are the same width the rears just have more offset

The rear coil over shocks where pretty weak so a couple bits of plastic and some wire and a big improvement I think.

Here is a quick mockup to give you an idea as to where this thing is headed.

Casey, Here are the wheels & tires. Cameron, Sorry don't mean to step on your thread but with a new baby thought you might want a little help.

What engine are you putting them on?

On the 911 the transmission mount is attached to the bottom. On the 914 it is mounted on top. The picture shows an unmodified kit part compared to the modified part. I added some flat stock to the floor pan to simulate a cross brace at the transmission mount.

Thanks Tommy. Yes the engine is from the 911 kit. Here are some photos comparing the kit engine to Fujimi's.

Since I went to all the trouble of fitting Fujimi's suspension I want to take advantage of the posing front wheel feature. But in order to do that I had to create a tie-rod tunnel.

I had every intention of using the kit’s suspension but it just wasn’t working for me well at least the front wasn’t. So starting with Fujimi’s 911 suspension pieces I was able to modify and scratch build something I was more happy with. This photo shows a comparison between the kit parts (molded yellow) and the modified parts.

Excellent Dale as usual.

The Fujimi 911 kits include a spare wheel insert. I carefully removed the plastic rim leaving just the wheel center. These will be mounted in tuned aluminum rims from Detail Master.

Here I have made a pair of air filters that will mount on top of the carburetor trumpets. In the back are two failed attempts. I'm happy with the filters in front.

Bryan, I really like the pulleys what do you plan to use for belts?

Scott I agree 100%. A well built model is just that, a well built model, regardless of the detail level. I guess my larger point is enjoy and embrace the process. Don't focus so much on the final outcome.

I have always worked hard on my builds. Cleaning up each part to remove flash, mold seams, ejector pin marks. Sanding and filing the parts to make sure they fit together properly. Paint detailing the parts with a wash to add depth to the part’s recesses or dry-brushing to accentuate the raised detail. You know good sound modeling practices. But most of the time my finished projects left me flat, uninspired. There was something missing for me and I couldn’t put my finger on it. It was about this time I was attending one of our model club’s meetings. A member came up to the display table and sat down a scale car battery. I chuckled a bit and said where’s the rest of your model. He said ’That’s it.’ I looked at him puzzled and he just turned and walked away. I then started to check out his ‘model’. He had carved the cable terminals from solder, the water fill caps were each and individual piece, the clamping bracket had threaded bolts and nuts, photo-etch hardware, the whole bit. It was a work of art. I then had an epiphany, my Zen moment. Up until then I had defined a model only as a completed project. A collection of parts assembled to create a model. The parts don’t create the model, the parts are the model. Each part is a scale replica of an object - a model. My entire outlook on model building had changed. No longer was it just about getting through paint and assembly so I can finally see how my model turns out. I enjoyed the building process far more now. I took satisfaction in completing a subassembly or scratch building a single part. I no longer felt pressure to complete the build. If I felt like it I would go down to my work bench and just build an engine or a set of headers. The part or subassembly didn’t even need to be for a specific project. I was still building and completing a model. Sure using this approach I complete fewer entire builds. But when I do, I am far more satisfied with the results. Try this approach, It might work for you too.

Very nice Ron. This kit is on my must build list. I hope mine turns out as nice as yours.

Please post pictures of your build Jesse.

I like my builds to look good even when you turn them over. So I’ve covered the huge slots in front of the rear wheel wells with .010 sheet styrene. I’ve added .060 angle to either side of the engine bay. These will act as my motor mounts; I plan on using the 6 cylinder engine from a Fujimi Enthusiast 911 kit. I have also filled some locator holes and tabs in the floor plan. I struggled to figure out on my 914/6 GT build why the operable engine cover and trunk fit and functioned so poorly. It finally dawned on me that the side panels that act as the hinge points for these panels sat to deep inside the body of the car. The top side chassis photo shows were I have .040 (!) sheet to raise these panel up. I then added .080 channel to act as a receiver to locate these panels since I have covered up the original mounting tabs slots. The strip styrene down the center of the chassis will fit inside the drive shaft tunnel of the interior acting like a blind cleat. I have added .010 sheet to the back of the interior to represent a fire wall. The notch in the center will provide clearance for the front of the engine.

I really wanted to build an open top car but the windshield frame is ridiculously frail. In fact in my kit the top member was already cracked. My method for attaching the frame to the roof starts with a strip of .010 styrene glued to the underside of the roof with just a minimal revel past the roofs leading edge. Once that has setup I glue the windshield frame to the edge of the roof and also to the previously exposed strip of styrene. The strip helps strengthen this joint. I then tape it into place on the body and make any necessary adjustment. I want to wait to mount the roof/windshield assemble until just before I am ready to start prime & painting in order to help protect it from handling damage while I work on the rest of the model. The 914 is rather unusual in that the roof attaches to the back edge of the windshield frame in lieu of setting on top of it.