Quick GMC

I know I'm new here, but I frequent a lot of other forums on a lot of other subjects. Posting in any thread, or starting a new one, will bring it to the top, depending on how you have your preferences set. Start a new thread? it's at the top. Post in a 10 year old thread? It's at the top. Even if the photos are gone, the thread goes up. People will see that there is a new response and generally click on it. Yes, you will get more views and more responses in a thread at the top of the general section than the top of a specific show-oriented section. How many of those people do you think actually NEEDED that info? Probably less than 1% if any at all. Someone that NEEDS the info will go to the appropriate place. More attention to your post doesn't mean anyone benefited from it, it just means you got more attention. Your comment about being for profit and whining that you are the customer is ludicrous. I don't subscribe, I don't plan to. I came here to learn how to build better models and hopefully someday help people build better models. I want to learn more about nostalgic racing etc. People that constantly whine and even mention "being the customer" and complain about not getting their way is just childish. It's not your forum. Go start your own forum with your own money and have nothing BUT a general forum and post everything in there if that's what you really want.

50+mph winds blowing walls of sand is preventing me from painting tonight. I'll follow your suggestions when I get a chance. Supposedly this wind is expected for 1-2 more days. What did you have to start sanding with? I don't mind the sanding, it's just when I have to start low and really put some elbow grease into is when I'm over it.

Thanks guys, I'll do some trial runs when I get home.

Is it a crappy product? I don't know anything about clear coats

Boston PD denies having someone in custody. Way to go Fox, hyping everything up

Live scanners in Boston, including PD http://www.radioreference.com/apps/audio/?mid=13 Video of the explosion (Nothing graphic) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfCK3Ar7Yus&feature=player_embedded https://vine.co/v/bFdt5uwg6JZ This is pretty scary.

update from Boston Globe: 2 dead 90 injured EOD approaching duffle bag near hospital, no confirmation on whether or not it's a device. Fox News says PD have someone "of interest" in custody, but it's Fox, no solid confirmation.

JFK library was confirmed as a detonated device, not a mechanical fire. So far 3 bombs went off. They have found 2 others and pre-detonated them. They also found a suspicious duffel bag outside the hospital where many of the injured were taken. They found video at the mall of someone leaving a back[ac and running out. They sent in an EOD dog at the California Pizza Kitchen after chasing a suspect with a backpack This is serious, it is most definitely a deliberate attack. So far 2 confirmed dead by Boston PD and 60+ injured including lost limbs. The mall is being cleared out Here is a link to the live FD scanner http://www.broadcastify.com/listen/feed/497/web

Primer was sanded with 1500 as well as the base coat of paint, so it was dead smooth. Practice pieces seem to be pretty good, then I choke on the actual car.

I have a Grex, I just switched to .5mm nozzle. I have Duplicolor clear (pre-thinned) and Zero (1 part). I have thinned both and sprayed un-thinned. Same problem. I did a few mist coats. Then a wet coat. The texture did start to go away, but it was getting thick, I was worried it would be too thick. So basically just keep doing coats until it smooths out? I will try it on a lower setting today. I don't have any reducer, I have been using lacquer thinner to thin the clear coats and the paint. It seems to be working fine, but not quite that smooth buttery finish. Would this make that much of a difference?

I am having trouble clear coating. I get too much texture. I can sand and polish, but I'm having to start with 3200 and go all the way through the grits. If I can avoid this, it would be great. When you guys clear coat, how much paint do you let through your airbrush? Meaning, if you have an adjustable stop, where do you set your stop, or how far back do you pull the trigger? I have a habit of shooting close to the model, maybe 6" away at the most, but I'm afraid if I go farther away I will get even more texture. I am shooting at 18-20 PSI, any more and it seems to dry faster before it hits the model. I'm just looking for suggestions, I know it will vary with each setup. I have found that 18 PSI and low to medium paint opening is good for basecoat paint, but not for the clear. Do you typically go higher on pressure with clear coat vs paint?

does anyone make a detail kit for this?

whoa baby that looks good!

Thanks for the links. I wish someone would put that much care into 1/24 parts. Everything I see out there has so much potential but falls short, other than the PE kits. I may have to start building larger scale just to buy some of this stuff. I really hope TDR goes down one more scale. Some of that stuff in 1/24 would be amazing.

Thanks for the links. I wish someone would put that much care into 1/24 parts. Everything I see out there has so much potential but falls short, other than the PE kits. I may have to start building larger scale just to buy some of this stuff. I really hope TDR goes down one more scale. Some of that stuff in 1/24 would be amazing.

well while I was fighting my transmission in the garage, one of these Iroc Z 1/16 slipped away. Final price was $41.00

This is how I've always done it. With 1:1 parts, etc. Seems like a pretty reasonable thing to do.

I may have missed this, but where are you getting your resin parts? This is looking killer so far.

Looks good without chrome. This gives me an idea, maybe an 80's themed Nova. Black with fluorescent pink, yellow and green

They are extremely soft paints when dry, so yes they will rub off. I always use gloves when handling stuff, so much better. you can handle stuff sooner too, the oils from your skin don't rub off. They also have a metalizer sealer.

my 1/12 57 Chevy I am building is going to be very expensive. Based on the engine and tranny, I estimate the cost of completion to be at least $500, maybe $700-$800 if I get into machined wheels and stuff. i also expect it to take at least 500 hours. so far it's been ongoing for 4 years, I'm trying to spread it out. my 1/24, if I go with photo etched, a new paint color for that car, about $50-$100 depending on the brand of kit. I haven't bought stuff in a while though. I'd like to but I've had to back off. trying to fix up the house.

If you build it up enough, you can sand and polish with micro mesh to a mirror shine. It's awesome. This is from another forum. This is MM Metalizer stainless steel polished with micromesh and buffed out http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/attachments/building-tutorials/8153d1241323120-guide-writing-useful-tutorial-no-33.jpg

I've had a knocking sound for a few weeks. Started out sounding like a lifter tick. Then it sounded like a mild low end knock, but was intermittent, so I knew it wasn't a rod. Pulled the tranny and found my flex plate cracked Have the new one already, going back together tomorrow.

I'd love to see more. It looks great. The chassis is really well done