Quick GMC

So much better with the wheels tucked in

dry brush or marker. Either way, hold it 90 degrees to the surface you are painting. Sometimes you will only get a tiny bit at a time. Keep going over it gently untill it build up on the lettering. I like to use the part of the brush closes to the handle, it's more firm and won't want to flex down into the low spots.

I got it at my hobby shop. They retail for $210. I got a little discount, I've known the guys there for 10 years. It's very touchy. Not finicky, just very precise. it's a whole new feeling you have to get used to.

You can sand Metallizer and polish out to a mirror finish as well.

I will be doing exterior mods later. Lowering another 2", color matched door and tailgate handles, 17" billet wheels, mild cowl hood. Kind of like this:

Duplicolor Engine Enamel, i forget the name of the red. I'll check when I get home.

I don't understand why they don't release these kits again, unless the molds are gone or something.

That I don't know for sure.

do those go for high dollar amounts or normal 1/16 prices? I'd love to the IROC or Firebird.

are you using a primer?

Love that color. I still haven't picked up one of these kits, I have no idea when I would ever get around to building it. That turned out awesome.

Last week, but brand new Grex TRG

Doesn't look like much Mods: Completly gutted and rebuilt 4L60E- •Billet output shaft •Transgo HD2 shift kit •Sonnax pinless billet accumulators •Sonnax billet 2nd and 4th gear servos •GM 5 pinion planets •Borg Warner High Energy frictions •hardened or strengthened everything else. •Yank 3,000 stall converter - PCM tune from Nelson performance in texas - Headers - Intake - Exhaust - Drop shackles Next up: custom Edlebrock cam and LS2 instake from Trailblazer SS

I added a little weathering on the valve covers. Tranny was painted with Duplicolor engine enamel Cast Iron, then weathered with a wash and Tamiya weathering powders. Next up I might mess with the ride height a little. I have started drilling the holes and preparing the rear end.

The exhaust manifolds were painted using a two part kit from Michael's. It's an iron oxide paint, then you brush on an oxidizer, wrap in saran wrap and leave it overnight. The manifolds are covered in actual rust, not simulated paint.

RB Motion spark plugs with porcelain part painted white Fulie top end assembly

This is another I am working on. It's on the engine and trans assembly so far, but since this turned into a model in itself i figured it would be nice to show. This is the kit that got me back into modelling after I stopped at about 10 years old. All my models were glue bombs and I specifically remember one Countach I put together while eating skittles, so the completed product was quite colorful. I was trying to find an auto related hobby to replace RC cars as it as becoming way too expensive. I remembered my dad had a couple of old large scale models he saved. I dug out the 57 Chevy and it was the glue bomb from hell. I still have the kit, but i have bought couple more since then. Here is the Model Car Garage photo etch kit I am going to use I am also using Scale Hardware and Micro Fasteners to replace pretty much every bolt on the car. I didn't realize how much this was going to cost until I was knee deep, so this is a long term build. All holes were drilled through the center of each molded bolt, then the molded piece shaved off and surfaces sanded flat. There are over 120 actual fastners on the engine and trans assembly alone, and about 60 hours so far. I'm stuck on the alternator, I'm trying to figure out how to make a metal fan blade because the molded in one isn't going to cut it. The beginning Assembly

I hear you. I have 3 of these kits.I have the engine and tranny 80% complete, with over 120 scale hardware pieces and about 60 hours into it to make it better. Brudda, do you have larger pics? I'd love to see it up close.

very nice. Sits just right.

The Whistler one is weird looking. It's Robby Gordon's 4 banger. I found some new videos on youtube that are pretty recent from an event. fly by 2011 practice 2011 race more racing 2012 some good references in there

My favorite so far is a worn xacto blade. I sand it with a coarse sanding stick on all 4 sides to form more of a point than a blade. Sand the spine, blade then both faces all in the direction from base to tip. Then use it backwards. I have found this is very sharp and won't run up the sides on you. It removes plastic quickly. I often find I go through the plastic when scribing when I don't mean to.

Model Masters Metallizers are by far the best metal colored paint, unless you want a polished look, then you want Alclad. Alclad flat Aluminum is the best flat aluminum I have seen. YOu can dry brush with the MM steel as well. Very nice stuff.

I still haven't learned after 6 years. I only do it with the gel now, not the liquid

Looks amazing so far. That engine looks great.

awesome, thank you