Quick GMC

Primer was sanded with 1500 as well as the base coat of paint, so it was dead smooth. Practice pieces seem to be pretty good, then I choke on the actual car.

I have a Grex, I just switched to .5mm nozzle. I have Duplicolor clear (pre-thinned) and Zero (1 part). I have thinned both and sprayed un-thinned. Same problem. I did a few mist coats. Then a wet coat. The texture did start to go away, but it was getting thick, I was worried it would be too thick. So basically just keep doing coats until it smooths out? I will try it on a lower setting today. I don't have any reducer, I have been using lacquer thinner to thin the clear coats and the paint. It seems to be working fine, but not quite that smooth buttery finish. Would this make that much of a difference?

I am having trouble clear coating. I get too much texture. I can sand and polish, but I'm having to start with 3200 and go all the way through the grits. If I can avoid this, it would be great. When you guys clear coat, how much paint do you let through your airbrush? Meaning, if you have an adjustable stop, where do you set your stop, or how far back do you pull the trigger? I have a habit of shooting close to the model, maybe 6" away at the most, but I'm afraid if I go farther away I will get even more texture. I am shooting at 18-20 PSI, any more and it seems to dry faster before it hits the model. I'm just looking for suggestions, I know it will vary with each setup. I have found that 18 PSI and low to medium paint opening is good for basecoat paint, but not for the clear. Do you typically go higher on pressure with clear coat vs paint?

does anyone make a detail kit for this?

whoa baby that looks good!

Thanks for the links. I wish someone would put that much care into 1/24 parts. Everything I see out there has so much potential but falls short, other than the PE kits. I may have to start building larger scale just to buy some of this stuff. I really hope TDR goes down one more scale. Some of that stuff in 1/24 would be amazing.

Thanks for the links. I wish someone would put that much care into 1/24 parts. Everything I see out there has so much potential but falls short, other than the PE kits. I may have to start building larger scale just to buy some of this stuff. I really hope TDR goes down one more scale. Some of that stuff in 1/24 would be amazing.

well while I was fighting my transmission in the garage, one of these Iroc Z 1/16 slipped away. Final price was $41.00

This is how I've always done it. With 1:1 parts, etc. Seems like a pretty reasonable thing to do.

I may have missed this, but where are you getting your resin parts? This is looking killer so far.

Looks good without chrome. This gives me an idea, maybe an 80's themed Nova. Black with fluorescent pink, yellow and green

They are extremely soft paints when dry, so yes they will rub off. I always use gloves when handling stuff, so much better. you can handle stuff sooner too, the oils from your skin don't rub off. They also have a metalizer sealer.

my 1/12 57 Chevy I am building is going to be very expensive. Based on the engine and tranny, I estimate the cost of completion to be at least $500, maybe $700-$800 if I get into machined wheels and stuff. i also expect it to take at least 500 hours. so far it's been ongoing for 4 years, I'm trying to spread it out. my 1/24, if I go with photo etched, a new paint color for that car, about $50-$100 depending on the brand of kit. I haven't bought stuff in a while though. I'd like to but I've had to back off. trying to fix up the house.

If you build it up enough, you can sand and polish with micro mesh to a mirror shine. It's awesome. This is from another forum. This is MM Metalizer stainless steel polished with micromesh and buffed out http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/attachments/building-tutorials/8153d1241323120-guide-writing-useful-tutorial-no-33.jpg

I've had a knocking sound for a few weeks. Started out sounding like a lifter tick. Then it sounded like a mild low end knock, but was intermittent, so I knew it wasn't a rod. Pulled the tranny and found my flex plate cracked Have the new one already, going back together tomorrow.

I'd love to see more. It looks great. The chassis is really well done

So much better with the wheels tucked in

dry brush or marker. Either way, hold it 90 degrees to the surface you are painting. Sometimes you will only get a tiny bit at a time. Keep going over it gently untill it build up on the lettering. I like to use the part of the brush closes to the handle, it's more firm and won't want to flex down into the low spots.

I got it at my hobby shop. They retail for $210. I got a little discount, I've known the guys there for 10 years. It's very touchy. Not finicky, just very precise. it's a whole new feeling you have to get used to.

You can sand Metallizer and polish out to a mirror finish as well.

I will be doing exterior mods later. Lowering another 2", color matched door and tailgate handles, 17" billet wheels, mild cowl hood. Kind of like this:

Duplicolor Engine Enamel, i forget the name of the red. I'll check when I get home.

I don't understand why they don't release these kits again, unless the molds are gone or something.

That I don't know for sure.