ScaleDale

It's all in the keywords. Vintage Gassers Gassers of the '60s Gasser Wars Dale

You want to look up the Nostalgia Gasser Racing Association. They race under '60s rules and have a good website. http://www.nostalgiagassers.com Dale

Toss the can in the sink and turn on the hot water. Use the facilities and it will be ready to go. Dale

Retired elementary Special Education teacher. Dale

Kitbashing Star Wars. Gotta love it! Dale

When you get into custom body work, putty-sand-prime, putty-sand-prime gets to be kind of a zen mantra thing that is repeated until you get it right. Patience. Dale

The AMT 66 Fairlane GT-GTA ia a wedge head. Mine, at least. The Parts Pak 427 is a wedge, too. I have several. To correctly ID an OHC engine, look at it from the front and not the valve covers. The front of each head will have a cam shaft end plate. Dale

That's the Great V-8s supplement but I can't find a date, just the pull-out. The SOHC they recommend is from the AMT 68 Shelby GT 500. It has twin 4 BBL carbs on a ram induction manifold. Dale

Very fitting use for such a great wood. Will your mother's ashes remain in Florida or will they be coming back with you? When my mother in law passed away in Mexico, my wife brought her ashes back to be scattered at her favorite fishing grounds. Customs was interested in what was in the box. This was pre 9-11, but they still had to look. Dale

If you go with a general shop compressor, be sure it is an oil-less design. Any oil used to lube the compressor will wreck your paint. I consider the money I spent on a cheap single action starter AB and canned air a total waste. Expect to pay around $300 total for a set-up that will last. I have an Iwata brush and a table top compressor. Dale

Chris Alston's ChassisWorks sells mini tubs for 1:1 racers. This link to an install done for the folks at Modified Mustangs Magazine by Grave Robbers Sheet Metal is their install guide. http://www.mustangandfords.com/projectbuild/mdmp_1112_wheel_tub_installation_widening_the_gap/ Dale

Vince: Thanks for the pdf. I'm building a 1:1 Mustang for Super Stock and wheel tubs are one of the challenges on my build list. Between this and what I've gathered from Alston's ChassisWorks, I can do enough of the prep work to save a big chunk of change on this. Dale

Thanks. I tried it freehand on my sacrificial 55 Chevy Pro Sportsman and didn't do a good job. I just seem to need a lot of structure to make stuff like this work. Thanks. I tried it freehand the first time and it didn't work out very well. I just seem to need a lot of structure to make stuff like this work. (No joke here) Dale

Been detailing the chassis and messing with my 1:1 Mustang project, but this is where I am now. I built this shield thing out of scrap balsa wood for the three tone paint I wanted to do and this is how it worked out. It let me paint and lightly sand each color one at a time without building up a lot of paint layers. It's a bit rough in finish and needs sanding and a clear coat. I wound up not liking the color transitions and added a free hand shot of red to make it a bit hotter and more organic in the blending of colors. I'll show that later. Thanks for your time. Dale

^^^ When I told the guy at the parts store I was working on a 302 he asked if that was the 5 liter... Don't get me started on metric parts mixed in with the SAE stuff in my rebuild. Dale

There are still places where they work on carbureted American engines, They call them drag strips. I have a '68 Mustang that I'm building up for the strip and the only piece of "old tech" that I will happily flush down the crapper is the point based distributor. Other than that, I like getting my hands dirty with all this old stuff. Dale

Lakewood, here. Welcome to the forum. I got back into modeling after 50 years and it's different but the same. Several interesting local shops in the Tacoma area. Let us know what part of the state you're in. Dale

I'll take a Unimog. It's the one on the bottom. Dale

Extremely well done. As a big fan of 60s SiFi I have enjoyed watching this build develop. Great creative skills, Ira. It's good to see a builder who isn't afraid to go way out of the box! What's next? Army or Air Force to the rescue? Maybe Commando Cody or Flash Gordon? Dale

Don't sand or use anything other than a wax on naked decals. Sanding, even the extreme fine grit stuff, is still sand paper and will lift the finish. same with polishing compounds. I like to polish, add decals and finish with either a top coat of clear or a wax to seal the decals in. Dale

Smart people.Now I have a use for all that white glue I amassed looking for the perfect one... Dale

With the way Revell recycles as much as possible from kit to kit, I'd say the were overstocked with rear tires for the Stacy David Rat Roaster and tossed them in. Those tires are treaded and bigger than a lot of slicks. Dale

My usual building mat is the top of the old door that serves as my bench. For the complicated stuff like scratch built chassis I have a wood board with a plate of glass taped over it. It's about 12x12. I put my pattern under the glass and I can cut styrene and glue things up without messing up the pattern. And it doesn't get paper on the frame, either. Cost around $2.50. Dale

Third. There are several finishes of Milliput and white (superfine) is hardest to get. My LHS has standard grey and Amazon has the rest. It makes my crazy Pro Stock and Pro Mod builds hold together after sawing them to death. Dale

Erik: A+ on your spelling, young man! I use a 3000 grit sanding pad from 3m that I got from the auto store for a first go over and follow it up with the 12000 and 32000 grit from the aforementioned polishing kit if needed. I have the Scratch X 2.0, but use it with caution as it is a polishing compound and will lift your paint. I finish off with Zymol Cleaner Wax and their Detailer Spray. The previous polishings might seem like they remove some of the sheen and these products will put it back. They are upper crust auto products and not cheap. Recommended by Dr. Cranky. Take your time with this process. Don't force the issue with polishing or sanding, let the weight of the material do the work. It's the last step and the one that scares me the most other than painting, that is. Dig through Dr. Cranky's videos. Everything I know about polishing that doesn't mess stuff up I learned from him. Dale