Speedfreak

Lucky you, I guess my kit must be a 'one off.

awesome

Very nice.

Nice Job. Like the flat black.

Think I got it whipped.

There's also this newer stuff from this 'English' (I think) company called ' Perfect Putty. I've used it for minor things and it was easy to use and works well.

That made me laugh JC! No, the axle is not upside down. I think I have it figured out, The problem being that the contact point for the main piece, (axles and axle housing) sit too high (yes they are put in correctly) resulting in the pieces that fit over that (pieces 8-9 in instructions shown) do not touch the frame, which they must in order to secure everything. I just added shims where necessary so everything will now reach the frame. I can't believe I'm the only one that has ever encountered this problem with this kit. This kit has many issues, starting with the frame, but , none with the figures that are included! Plus you get a 'certificate of authenticity' endorsed by Carroll Shelby himself, who could ask for more! Thanks JC, (oh BTW the instructions in the USRRC kit actually name all the parts, which is nice)

Beautius! Man you did a stellar job on matching those colors for the interior.

What's up with the rear suspension on this kit, I can't get things to line up properly (like rear axle cover to tranny!) even though it appears like things are right, there's a Gremlin in this Cobra somewhere! Thanks.

James, those bumper look fabulous!

So Tom, you polished the body and painted the roof? That looks like a true maroon on the body. Looks great.

Wow, that body looks beautiful from here, is that BMF? Nice work. I have yet to build 'one' Thunderbolt, it's high on my list.

That glue sounds worth checking out, thanks for the info! I have made progress on rear suspension, hopefully enough progress. Great info in this thread. Thanks to all who responding.

Hey, thanks for the responses! I'll try some accelerator with CA Pete, never done that. Pinning seems to be the method used by most, I do that sometimes but only as a last resort, and , with things that I know will be a problem, like headers. What I'm actually working with now is the rear suspension on a Revell USRRC Cobra, so pinning not really an option. Ok you guys, you've given me plenty to think about and try. Thanks, Gene

Hello, I have avoided this dilemma for quite some time by simply using Microscale Krystal Klear for most of the parts on my recent models. For the most part it works very well, the biggest drawback being the time required for set-up. So, if there is a part(s) that requires quicker set-up to hold, it's not that great. Back in the day I would paint parts and then scrape the paint off the contact points with exact-o and apply cement, works very well but a lot of time spent scraping and possible deformation of parts. And then there is the ' white glue' on contact surface 'before' painting, but , I've never been comfortable with that method, not sure why. What method(s)/ materials, do people use for adhering painted polystyrene surfaces? (and yes, super glue will melt Tamiya Lacquer!) Reveal your secrets here! Thanks!

Looks great! Amazing what can be accomplished with color and finish. I too would like to see a reissue of this kit.

Nice job Guy, paint job looks excellent! Beautiful red. I almost didn't look at this 'cause I've seen so many, glad I did.

Man, I love '49 Ford's! When I was young they were among my favorite models. Nice build!

Nice job Pete, car has personality. Did you use the purple over the red?

That's amazing stuff Don!

Thanks you guys, I thought maybe it had something to do with the way I sprayed, otherwise seems like I would have noticed similar problem before.

I've been using TS-30 (rattle can) for years now for different things, but , didn't realize until today that it was leaving a residue on the surface after painting. At least in this case I sprayed one side of a practice body to see how/if TS-30 would work as an undercoat for some pearl paint I want to use. I was putting the body close to my nose to see how cured it was (smelling) and noticed that it was smudging where my nose had touched it, turns out that the reason for the smudge was because of residues on the surface of the paint, not , skin oil from the tip of my nose as I suspected. I found this out because I used a clean cotton t-shirt to wipe off the suspected smudges only to find that the t-shirt had turned powdery silver where I had wiped. So, the question is, " has TS-30 been leaving heavy residue every time I've used it in the past I've just never realized it? Or, is this because this particular can of paint is a couple of years old? (couple means two).

Man, that's a wild looking car.

Good to know there are kits out there that are a 'joy' to build, nice job.

Nice job Ray. I've thought about buying the larger kit of this car several times.