misterNNL

Looking fabulous. As with most things the greatest reward follows the greatest effort..

Thanks brother builders! A lot of the fun was incorporating many of the individual details from the real speedsters I found images of in magazines or on-line. A lot of those parts were scratch built as they are not available from current kits.

No clue on the ID but looks like it was set up to be a street flusher truck with those big nozzles out front.

I can easily see why you would be attracted to this Pro mod build. Absolutely beautiful design. Modifying an existing kit would be a monumental task as others have already stated. If someone could model it on computer it would be possible to have it 3D printed by Shapeways and end up being 100 percent accurate. Best of luck with whatever path you choose and be sure to document your build and share it here in the on the work bench forum.

Do you have in in-progress photos of the body going together? I would love see those. Really enjoy seeing non-kitted builds on the forums. Thanks for sharing.

No I don't know how to post. I was thinking that he must have used an existing kit engine as his master and hoping to gain access to those assembly plans for help. The best I can do is email you a photo of the parts. The seller said this is the engine used in the current generation of Mopar pickups if that helps at all.

I just checked Flintstone's website and his item number is JFW 8. He lists them as rat rod wheels and tires. The set of four sells for $ 10.00 plus shipping.

This past weekend I ran into the "Mo-Luminum" booth at the Detroit model show. I never heard of them but their stuff is resin and aluminum parts for truck builders.I have been wanting to build a diesel powered rat rod for a couple years and saw this is an opportunity to get an engine and transmission. I opened the engine bag today and realized how much trouble I have gotten myself into with his engine. There are 30 very nicely cast and flash free parts to this kit...but...I have absolutely no idea how it goes together. There are no instructions as I suppose most of these are purchased by truck modelers who know what they are working with. My knowledge of Diesel engines is absolutely non-existent. does anyone know if there is some sort of reference material I can find that will help with this assembly of this beast?

Thanks Andy. I don't have the skills to post.The posting and photos were done by Tim Boyd.

Thanks for the positive feed back. The research for these was almost as much fun as building them. If you want to see a lot of great speedster images access my Pintrest Album for almost 1,000 images of speedsters. Just type in my name and the word speedsters on any Pintrest lead and that should take you there.

I got those wheels and tires from Jimmy Flinstone resin. Simply access his web site and search under wheels and tires for some really neat stuff with reasonable prices.Thanks for all the positive comments.

This is one of two Race of Gentlemen inspired speedsters I built last year. Both are based on Ford Model T's. This racer is based on the AMT 1927 Kit and is combined with resin parts from Model Martin Co.operated by Andy Martin. I used the AMT frame and Frotenac four cyl engine. The body is a modified Model Martin resin item as are those cool disc wheels. The Body is based on a real company offering from the 1920's called Martin Body Co.(how clever of Andy,huh). I cut the rear from his body and retained only the cowl and sweeping side panel.Floor boards are bass wood.The seat is directly from an AMT '25T kit.The front axle and gas tank are scratch built.Steering wheel is wrapped with coarse sewing thread to resemble the wrapped wheels from that earlier era. The leather helmet on the seat is a photographed item I found in an antique store. The googles are scratch built.Paint is Rattle can Krylon brand burgundy over Krylon gloss black.The two speed rear end is a kit bashed item using the '27 kit piece. All comments and criticisms are welcome. For additional overall and detail shots, click here for 12 more images...

This is another AMT model T speedster model I built last year that was inspired by the wide coverage in magazines and internet coverage of their coastal beach racing events. This is based on a scrap AMT '25 Ford coupe body I had in my stash of stuff. I cut that body into 16 separate panels. I narrowed it to match the frame width and added a flat panel at the rear. The turtle deck is part of a Flintstone made resin body. The body was also shortened to a knee crunching status.The engine is semi scratch built with a hand made RAJO head and custom intake manifold. The wheels and tires are Flintstone resin parts.The number is an homage to the number of forward speeds of the car would have as it has 2 three speed transmissions linked in series and a 2 speed rear end(3x2x2=12).The floorboards and firewall are basswood. Steering wheel is again a thread wrapped part to simulate a common 1920's practice of wrapped wheels. Seat is a resin item also(source unknown now). Dirty green paint is flat green rattle can Krylon rusted and heavily weathered with acrylics. Additional details include mechanical brakes and the rounded track style nose piece friction shocks.Comments and criticisms are welcome. Photos are by Tim Boyd and are used with his permission. For additional overall and detail shots, click here for 11 more images...

Another sweet ride from the tax stable! Love every aspect of this one.

To quote an old TV comedian(Jackie Gleason) "How sweet it is"!

This is a "Race of the Gentlemen Theme" Model T Speedster I recently completed. It includes a semi-scratchbuilt RAJO engine. I will post more details shortly......along with images of my other Model T Speedster. The body started as a scrap coupe from my stash.I cut that into 16 panels while I narrowed it to the same width as the frame and shortened it to a knee crunching length. The added details include mechanical brakes,friction shocks.wrapped steering wheel and rounded nose piece. The turtle deck and the wheels and tires are also JF resin pieces. Paint is rattle can Krylon flat green with grime and rust done with dry brushed acrylics. The # 12 denotes 12 speeds forward..two 3 speed transmissions linked in series then a 2 speed rear end. Photos are by Tim Boyd used with his permission.

I have accumulated a lot of white metal parts over the years for various reasons but have never used them. Some are heavy castings like wheels and others are quite thin and fragile like duval windscreens.Does anyone have a link to an instructional video showing how to polish these parts? Any help appreciated.

I apply it sparingly around the edges and sometimes hold critical points in place with painters tape. I wait for it to dry overnight before carefully removing it. I just used it this past week with .005" clear window material that had been painted flat black on the inside without any problems. Incidentally the product name is spelled with "K' s",Micro Krystal Klear.

I do believe you should print out a set of your build process photos for an album. Otherwise you'll spend hours and hours explaining how you built this incredible vehicle. Somehow "over the top" just doesn't cover it!

I use a product called Micro Crystal Clear for attaching a lot of parts including Windows. I apply it with a very small brush when gluing small parts. It dries clear and seems to remain slightly flexible rather than brittle. It avoids the fogging effect sometimes caused by super glue so is perfect for those windows,clear lenses and really small stuff like mirrors,etc.

Somehow uglier than usual and no I would not spend my precious modeling time building one. Just my opinion but way outside my wheelhouse.

Thanks so much for continuing to post your progress photos John. You've attacked a daunting project head-on and nailing it with killer details in every area.

Beautifully done,love the color choices.Thanks for sharing.

Welcome to the best darn forums around. The goal of restoring your dad's old built models is a great way to honor his memory.

Always nice to see young builders joining the forums. You are the future of our hobby. Nice job on the Big John Willys coupe. I saw the the real car compete at the NHRA national drags on 1964.