jbwelda

seems kind of overly obvious but check out the resins forum on this very message board!

so youre putting that modern twin turbo japanese motor into the classic chevy truck? interesting concept. i wonder how it would work out in real life. even if it has 500 hp, that might be at like 7500 rpm with much reduced power in the lower ranges and the torque might not be there to get the thing rolling in real life on the street. thats the beauty of models though, they just have to look cool. and this one will.

that looks like something you could make 10 copies of and sell.

yes thanks so much for the explanation. its all coming back to me now!

nice mike, hey bring that tamiya black one to the meeting tuesday! i dont think ive ever seen a tamiya full detail skyline!

that body looks really excellent. i hate to look dumb but what exactly are the differences between the kit body and this one?

thanks for all the info. sounds like way more hassle than the outcome will be worth but if i see a body at nnl west this year i will snag it and take it from there. i am thinking slammer now too so i guess thats pretty doable with a minimum of serious work. its really puzzling that no one put this out as a model and yet didnt they put out those middle weight caddys, STS or something? never did much for me but this cadavette really gets me. saw a modified one at bonneville salt flats one year and loved it from there thats more what i had in mind for a buildup. at the time i saw it i think i remember it being called "the worlds fastest cadillac". seems that title has been grabbed by someone else:

email received. thanks steve

i think jimmy flintstone offers a resin conversion to build a Cadillac XLR (now theres a caddy i can appreciate!) that uses a recent model Corvette as a base kit. has anyone ever completed this conversion or used or seen mr flintstones body? is it pretty easy going conversion wise? just curious because i have been thinking about building a wicked XLR for some time now. is the real thing built on a vette chassis etc so that the conversion would be fairly close to the prototype? thanks in advance for all input!

too cool! not sure about moving the motor around but hey its just a model!

i want to read the tutorials on the offy motor (sorry for off topic but the same would apply if i wanted to check closer into the ifs/irs), but i cant seem to get registered at the scalemodelcars site to check the forum. it seems to have some kinda hitlerian security on it where you can only browse a certain amount of posts then it forces you to register. ive tried registering for the past hour or so (a complete waste of time) and now for some reason its insisting i send in a parental notification form or some such bs. to make a long story short: i dont want to mess with that. not to mention both my parents are deceased seeing as how i am pushing 60 years old. i would like these tutorials emailed to me if at all possible. jbwelda at gmail dot com. please. and its too bad its so uptight on that forum; there look to be a lot of good posts about large scale builds. i dont really want to contribute just now, just read. but doesnt seem to be possible without registering. (edited for spelling)

yes hobby link japan is highly rated and a lot of people buy from them. they are easy to deal with and quick delivery. my only problem with them is their catalog is filled with out of stock items. but if they have something in stock they have decent prices and shipping is surprisingly reasonable, best to buy a few items to minimize the per item cost of shipping you know. anyway, definately buy with confidence from hlj.

well some progress to report! first coats of paint are on but of course there is some clean up to do. there were darn seam marks right across the bonnet that of course i could not see until the paint was laid down! so the bonnet has been re-prepped and is ready for a second go at it. the body is looking good except that i failed to mask the front flares correctly so i have to go back and mask and shoot them green...shouldnt be too big a deal. there is a bit of paint distortion between the green and white right where the flares meet the body that needs to be cleaned up too. i think the clear between colors crept up under the masking somehow. it always happens. paint is tamiya pure white and racing green, and the green is surprisingly close to the box art so i am happy about that. and just now, like right now just now, finished up the interior. the seat belts were pretty much a hairy bear but they look very nice now and the strange blue material they supply to make the belts actually works out very nicely. it lays flat like you want them to look, but it probably took me an hour of fiddling around with them to get them to look natural. its one thing for them to be there and another to look like they really belong there. the photoetch buckles and hooks really work well and the little p/e anchor points look cool too. this was all out of the box by the way. the recaro seat looks cool sprayed testors go mango and then weathered with some black and red wash. dashboard is pretty detailed and mostly it was just a bit of paint and future. so now i have to finish up the paint and just final assembly left i think! still might be awhile!

or tamiya clear.

>It's neat, but compromised by the tacked-on nature of some of the "Daytona" parts. but the originals looked mega tacked-on too so in that way its true to form. i like it, better than the original i think, judging from just these photos.

i have never looked into these either, but i could see how the circular ones would be nice...i have a dremel buzz saw sort of attachment that believe me has saved my life a few times (or at least the models life!) and i could see how a thinner one would be nice, but the ones i am really interested in are these: so i take it each of those is a little saw, with very tiny teeth you cant really see in the photo? and so you remove them from the fret and just hold them to use them? those look like they might come in really handy sometime. >Shortly after buying a set I picked up some cheap x-acto style handles at the local dollar store and mounted the whole >set so they're always handy so they are made to mount in a normal xacto handle?

that show your friends model was photographed at was probably the NNL West? ebay would be the place i think, but be prepared for the smack of reality. built models dont often bring much coin unless they are really spectacular, have a pedigree or provenance (like being in the july 66 issue of car modeler or something). this is probably somewhat less true in "collector scales" (like 1/43), but overall most built models, even vintage builds of vintage models, dont fetch much. thats not to say your friends models wont bring $. go to ebay and do a search for the keyword "built" in the auto models category and only include completed auctions so you can see what the models really sold for (because very often there are no bids until virtually the last moment and then everyone watching the auction throws down at once right at the end).

this illustrates what i was implying above rather well: >I am going to buy a polishing kit...Novus" Novus is a creamy paste or liquid very light abrasive used for semi final and final finishing. a "polishing kit" is the series of polishing cloths i was referring to above. i like the finer Novus product for final gloss on a finish. not sure about polishing/waxing Future though, it already shines a lot as it is.

what exactly do you mean by "polishing"? if you mean waxing or rubbing a finished surface, then probably soft rags and q-tips but if you mean truly polishing the paint, abrading it until ultra smooth and all orange peel is gone, then buy a polishing kit of descending grades of polishing cloth. read and follow the directions though you dont usually have to start with the coarsest cloth unless the paint is really bad; generally i start with 4000 or 6000 grit and work my way through to 12,000. trickest part is to polish all surfaces evenly and not break through the paint to primer coat...or more usually the way i do it, dont break through the clear to the color coat. thats easily detected (though not easily avoided) by constantly checking to make sure you dont see color on your cloth, meaning you are through your clear somewhere. this can of course turn rapidly into a repaint if youre not careful. its after you do the latter that you then do the former, eg: applying some final shine with wax or similar.

i really dig that tony nancy dragster; its one ive been wanting to get into for the past couple years. and looks like you got that mclaren looking pretty good too, all the panels look like they sit right. good stuff.

very nice build of a very difficult and fussy kit! but bubble tops...were they someones idea of a bad joke? ever been to california? ever lock your dog in a car in the sunshine of cali (hint: DON'T!). that dog will be fried within an hour. and thats just with normal coupe window greenhouse. think how hot it gets under a bleedin BUBBLE TOP! i never understood how the hyde-of-nauga, esp black, even stays intact for a week under a bubble top. must have to park them in the shade all the time? and if the top is plastic as i believe roths typically were, i would have to imagine they start to sag and distort with even a little sun. bubble tops seemed to me a cool idea when i was 12. then i learned a bit about physics or more generally life in the real world. nothing would survive under a bubble top in cali in the sun for more than an hour...including the bubble top itself! maybe thats what happened to ed after too many of these photo sessions? anyway a great build, i love to see these old roth kits getting done by an adult who can do them justice. i know i never could as a kid as an aside was it here that i read someone had found the orbitron in front of a tijuana brothel or something and was currently restoring it? ugly azz car but historical still. i think ed was sitting under bubble tops in the sun a bit too long while he was designing that one!

personally speaking, lower is better. super project going there and i remember that car and always loved its simplicity and clean look.

i think i have seen a japanese tuner accessory kit that contained sparco or similar seats. you might check hobby link japan or similar and find those. the 911 motor is a bit more of a problem, i dont really know of any full detail models though i am vaguely remembering maybe a fujimi enthusiasts version of a 911 but not positive it wasnt curbside. look in another similar topic for a photo i posted of a fujimi porsche 356 quad cam motor, that would look wicked in a bug.

just got back from a week in the desert...found a big tub project car: sorry for off topic sorta but just had to share. this was at russells camp in the panamint mountains bordering death valley. beautiful this time of year and that cabin has solar heated shower and all!

nice looking and theres no need to apologize for unseen detail youve added. you know its in there and besides, if the car ever does suffer a fall, at least the pieces will look real! that challenger looks cool down in the weeds!