jbwelda

terry, is your (this) book out of print or can it still be found somewhere for somewhere near list price? i ask because i just checked amazon and they (someone, not amazon proper i guess) want 100 bucks for a copy. and used ones are 60$ approx. seems kinda steep to me but looks like a book i want. many thanks!

words dont even do this justice. everyday there is something amazing posted here on the model cars website but i have to say this nearly trumps everything. wow

i have never ever seen that kit built to that level of appearance. super nice!

heres a couple quick shots of progress this week: pretty much ready to epoxy the wheels on and do the windshield and call it good. its kind of amazing how well some of this fits together despite the absence of any real alignment marks or pins or anything. even my hood clearances look good and the exhaust pipes came out better looking than i could have asked for! a lot of work there: filling big divots and removing lots of parting lines. but with care, like drilling out all the mounting holes for exhaust pipes etc so they would slip in for a positive mounting, everything came out looking pretty aligned and like the photos i have of the real thing.

thanks rick, yeah the finish on your stuff is perfect for cast wheels. i will check the site too.

heres some shots of my model room and workbench. i try to not start projects and not finish them so i keep my current builds to a minimum (though that changes with whim). right now anyway ive just got the wild dream and the jaguar on the bench. active work bench: secondary work bench where i mostly store partially completed assemblies: and a staging area sort of table with new kits, extra room for current projects, stereo systems, etc: i am not really used to having a lot of room to spread out in! even it is getting filled up though, but boy this is so much better than my previous building environment!

all right a further update, file under cart before the horse dept: but the horse ought to be along any time now! thanks for looking!

a suggestion: accurate sand cast look halibrand spoke (8?) front wheels and also halibrand kidney bean wheels. vintage stuff that is sorely lacking in 1/8. i know the exterminator has spoke front wheels but they are kind of awkward looking (like all lindberg 1/8 if you ask me) and i think someone did kidney beans but im pretty sure you guys could do them better. just a humble suggestion.

when i was a kid i lived in belleville, actually o'fallon, illinois. i would like to see what it was like there now. i was there in early 60s. bought my first model kit ever there i believe, at a hobby shop i doubt is in existance anymore. anyway just bumping your thread back up

Sunday December 6 Bob Karroll is hosting a NNL style show at the Stockton, CA fairgrounds, in conjunction with a 1:1 car show and contest. I am, as usual, a bit short on actual details, but Stockton Fairgrounds, probably starting around 9am or so, probably judging by 1pm or so. Probably. That judging being for special awards because as an NNL this is more a show than contest. Maybe not. But for sure Sunday Dec 6 Stockton Fairgrounds! Be There! I am sure Raul and numerous nameless luminaries here on this board will be there!

csc will also eat up any body putty on the body. but it sure will strip paint! not so much on tamiya but model master and its gone! dont know about needing a mask though, doesnt seem too fume-y to me. but gloves are a must. that stuff will dry out your skin like crazy.

that looks super sharp and i like little touches like the blue detailer in the hubs!

totally fantastic! fabrication like that is talent i bow down to. fantastic.

yeah thanks for bumping this back up, never saw it the first time around. and this has to be THE best looking red paint job i have ever seen! and on one of the nicest 32s i have ever seen! fantastic!

sorry if its been pointed out previously...

now thats some crazy stuff!

they probably put it out there after they couldnt figure out how to get it running with the motor in backwards like that!

that was the tamiya kit? looks great!

yeah i was going to say the exhaust system looked very nice. great job overall especially if this didnt fit together too well! most all body kits i have put on, coming with the kit in question, not aftermarket ones, never really fit too well and require a lot of filling and trimming and adding of pieces here and there. but when you look at the real cars, they dont really fit very well to begin with, but with a model we like to keep em looking trim and fit! great job there!

and heres a question for anyone who cares: I have never really liked those tall T windshields. I understand they protect the occupants from the wind and the occupants sit up high (and uncomfortable as h3ll!) anyway, what I am wondering is if i should really use the windshield as it comes or whether I should further blasphemize this classic by chopping the windshield in half basically, making it look much more areodynamic? right now I am heavily leaning to putting it on as it comes, but up until a day or so ago I was planning on chopping it. one problem I can see right now is that if I leave it full sized and use superglue to fasten it to the body (a risky proposition without locating pins as it is), it is sure to get knocked off at some point. whereas if its lower profile it will be sturdier and not as prone to meeting stray elbows or wind gusts. any suggestions? dont get offended if I go ahead and do it however it strikes me at the moment!

I ended up not using those pieces but the lenses sealed up really nice with some black tinted epoxy. sorry i dont have a photo just now to show but the rear end cleaned up real nice. i went back and looked at the photos of your build there, gramps-xrd, and i noticed you got some pretty decent fit going on there between the body, engine side panels, front grille housing and the hood. i hope mine turn out that well! right now its looking pretty good but i still have to clearance the hood to miss the filler neck but ive got my fingers crossed! thanks for looking!

closing in on it but still some substantial fitting and trimming to be done! I have messed around with the side panels and they are ready to install but i can see that the hood underside will need some trimming to miss the oil filler, or the filler will have to be relieved or removed. but overall its looking pretty good! more betta pics in a couple days when its all fitted and glued down. and the display stand that I decided to do as it comes: that means wood base (dont really like that but there you go, its got wood grain engraved in it so wood it is), pearl white interior display area, a mirror for the diamond, and black stantions with gold cord. subtle... I still am going to wash the brown with black and then red to tone down the fresh paint some and give it some weathering and a patina hopefully. I am also going to BMF the plaque and then do the lettering in black sharpie. heres the mirror material and the cord. went to michaels for both but as usual they disappointed...did not seem to ever have heard of mirrored mylar that you can cut to size. totally puzzled like a deer in the lights. funny. well like I said, hope to post some more and finish this one up soon! I think a Mazda Cosmo I have had on my shelf might be next along with the Tognotti King T that came with the Wild Dream.

that paint is fantastic and i think its perfect for a 58! super! thanks for sharing the technique too, final product looks really really sharp!

you just cant beat superglue for bang for the buck in most cases. its not solvent but will hold most everything very well very quickly. and occasional drilling and pinning pretty much guarantees a long lasting bond

i would personally brush Future floor polish (or whatever it is called these days) on it and let that dry. its what i have been using for quite some time. now a problem you will face is that when youve coated the decal, with laquer or acrylic (eg: future), you will need to trim around the decal with a preferably brand new x acto #11 blade or razor blade or something. and trim as closely as you can because it will define the outer edge of the decal, regardless of where the image actually ends. then you might have to keep the decal wet for an extended time to get it to break loose from the paper. be careful with it still because it will rip with enough pressure. and dont soak the decal in the water; dip it in for like 5 seconds or so and then place it on a paper towel to loosen. if its kinda dry still after a minute maybe give it another dip and then let it sit for close to a couple minutes at least. that will assure the decal will still have its adhesive. then its best to let the decal dry and probably follow up with a clear coat or (my choice), Future to seal the decal. this whole process will probably take a couple days. be sure to let the decal dry out well before the clear coat.