jbwelda

wow you really made that model stand out! i had no idea there was all that detail hiding under the skin. Great job!

thanks ratrod, im going to keep my eyes open for one of those but i know they are spendy on ebay.

wow that is one bad azz bike! revell made the kit you used? i had heard that at one point revell had modeled a hells angel club members drag bike but no one i had talked to knew whether it had actually been produced. do you happen to know what if anything was used as the prototype for this bike? it looks like it would fit for the period and situation. do the instrux or box have any info on if it was modeled after a real motorcycle? maybe you could post a pic of the box if you get a chance; i would sure like to know what it looks like because ive never run across any 1/8 bikes like this.

yeah super nice job on that ghia! the paint even looks factory. ive never actually seen one done either. ive wanted to do one and substitute in a quad cam porsche 356 motor from the fujimi enthusiasts kits. since its a model you can dream big!

what i kinda see is lavender tinted primer...with maybe some accents in red and black... so i voted for the satin blue...but i think it should be more subtle than in your face blue...

looks very excellent! isnt it always the case that the last few details seem to drag on and on... great work and with the body polished it will look very slick.

well like i mentioned solvent tends to "melt" the decal into the surface below it. so if you want a decal to look painted on, try solvent on it even on a flat (the flatter and smoother the better) surface. if on the other hand you want it to look like a, well, decal, then dont bother with the solvent. in my experience even when you clear coat over the decals you can see a big difference between the two techniques, the most obvious being when you solvent the decal it loses its hard edges and blends into the surface more. but youre right about solvent not reacting properly on some decals so one must alway test and if it doesnt work, find some other technique. bad reactions go all the way from totally messing up the decal to just not working at all.

it might have been last time they wrinkled and instead of leaving them be, you went at them with a brush or something. decal solvent (like microsol) melts the decal into the surface below it, almost to the point of becoming truly painted onto the surface. but in the process it really wrinkles up the decal and if you are around to witness it, the natural impulse is to grab a brush or something and "save" it. but youre actually going to tear it up and mess it up bad. you need to relocate somewhere: go to the bar, go ask your wife if there are any chores you can do AWAY from that room over there, etc. because if you hang around and stare at it long enough, youre gonna go over there and "save" it again so its best you just leave the area...for the evening preferably. tomorrow when you re-enter the area hopefully the decal will have self leveled with only maybe a bit of touchup. i believe at this stage you can apply more microsol to smooth wrinkles etc. by the way the way it should be applied in the first place is to put the decal down maybe using microSET (not microSOL) and let it dry for a half hour or so, working out any air bubbles with a soft wide brush you use ONLY for decals. a bit of stiffness to the bristles usually doesnt hurt if youre careful. once the decal has dried a half hour or so i use a soft wide brush to apply a thick coat of microSOL and brush it down a bit...you can work with it for a minute or so before the decal begins to soften and frighten you. then put a final flow coat on it and now is the time you LEAVE THE ROOM. try it, might work for you. oh one other thing: dont ever soak decals in water. pass them through water and maybe let them sit for a second or two but then pull them and put them on a paper towel and sit for 30 secs or so. it will preserve the adhesive and make them a lot easier to work with. if the first dip doesnt loosen them in the first 30 secs, dip them again and wait and they will come loose.

ive been building vintage kits and spraying them, out of the can, with model master, tamiya, etc paint with no negative results other than self-induced that is. i always primer first and thats with modern materials as well, but not sure that does much as far as protecting plastic. if nothing else,cut some sprue off the kit youre working on and paint it to see what happens. hope that helps.

hey ed, bummer about not providing all the cool parts but if you want motor and stand be sure you check out the 66 nova because it does have a cool motor and stand for it.

typically it is how they are aimed more than the lights themselves that bother people on the road.

that yellow turned out great and that build is super!

wow thats cool. any progress pics or are the in the workbench section?

ragnar you got a link to the compressor you bought? does it have a tank? thanks!

yeah harry is right, but its not necessarily do-over time. you can take a toothpick or some other similar object and gently smooth and press the wires down and into a pattern. it does look like youve got too much wire there but if you have drilled holes into the engine block and then passed the wire through, maybe you can grab the wires and pull some of their length out of them. but you do want them down following the contour of the motor on their way to their destination. see bills layout above, its pretty much perfect to my eyes and the harnesses are optional but they make it easier to keep them organized.

i really like that tamiya smoke job there. let me ask you about the liquid mask, i've got some but havent really tried anything too complicated. when you used it to mask the wheels did you really get it straight when you applied it, or did you go back and trim with an exacto to get a clean separation between the chrome outer and the smoke inner, or, hopefully, does the edge not really show because of all the reflections off the chrome and paint? hopefully you get what i am asking... theres actually a number of really cool wheel treatments here, thanks!

how about no fenders, channelled? I am actually contemplating something like that so this is a timely topic for me, Raul.

i wonder what the guy wants for it? registering it in cali would be problematic if it had to be registered as about 66 or later. still, looks pretty cool and that big block cheby ought to make it move. its something very inspiring for model building thats for sure.

>the detail is a total overkill (pistons in the engine??!!) thats actually useful: i think its designed so you can hang the partially assembled motor on the engine stand from the 356 enthusiast series, maybe the engine stand also comes with that 911 kit? then you can have your pistons hanging out of the case on the stand...in the fujimi garage with the fujimi tools!

thanks for that tutorial on bending plastic tube, im going to try that soon! lookin super!

hey folks thanks for bringing this back up; i was going to update it soon as i have made a little progress and actually hope to get it done by NNL West for sure if not the end of the year. >and i should make some sort of airboxes which the kit seems to have ignored completely. i was totally wrong there: there are in fact some really cool airboxes and cooling routing under the hood so that is taken care of! maybe i should look at the instructions! oh and that blue material is for making the seat harness arrangement that a lot of the photoetch is for. its actually what i will be doing next when i get a chance to spend time on it, so i will post some pics. its pretty standard stuff for harness making but i am interested in seeing how that material works out. i believe there are decals supplied for the belts so that plasticky material might work well.

ah funny this comes up because i was thinking about posting some update photos. i have the chassis, motor and wheels & tyres done but the interior only half done. ive got the bodywork done (remove some trim, drill holes for antenni and the big fuel fillers in the rear and some other minor mods. i am currently hung up painting the body, got the white on the upper fenders down and need to mask it and shoot the green, then clear. hoping to do that over this coming week because the wind is supposed to be down. i havent had any special difficulties so far but ive not come to the final assembly yet and that is where things generally go wrong so we will see. i will say to really follow the instrux on how to route the rear brake cooling ducts because its easy to get confused (or at least it was for me ). other than that i dont remember anything being that crazy but the instrux can be a little misleading at times...and then necessary! on the motor i think i would refit the wiring harness and make it sit lower. anyway have fun and i will ressurect my old thread here in the next week or so.

>in drag racing the weight is on the other side to commpensate for FAT guys like ME oh i forgot about the driver! your build just keeps getting better and better!

thats really a much more realistic solution imo. just sending them out to anyone who requests them is asking to be defrauded. its a shame people want to take advantage of offers like this and it just ruins it for other, honest requestors. thanks to revell for implementing a fairly painless yet effective solution to keeping honest people honest

man that is too much! what scale is it? is it 1/8th? pretty incredible! one thing: wouldnt you want to distribute the weight by having one battery per side instead of them side by side? or doesnt that matter in straight line racing like it would in road course racing?