jbwelda

im not sure about the ammonia part but i always coat clear plastic with future floor wax (i think its called "Kleer" in other countries). then you can super glue it to your hearts content without fogging. but like someone else said i would now just use elmers white glue slightly diluted with water or that micro clear glue which to me seems the same as elmers but more expensive. ammonia removes future floor wax so maybe what was meant was to coat the windshield with future and then use ammonia to secure it by melting the future where it contacts the part to be glued to. but the future floor wax will also do a good job of hiding any scratches and marks on the windshield and also does a great job of holding small parts like headlight lenses or even photoetch stuff.

say, where did those restraint belts come from? i need some for a project im working on and will post pics of here shortly. i was planning on using 5 point harnesses but it would actually look much better with stock restraints like what youve got there.

actually already started...used 1/24 diecast morris truck, cut up, roof lifted, wooden panels built, now comes the hard part: graphics! by the way this was a mobile record store used by reggae singer charlie ace to peddle records in kingston jamaica circa mid 70s. van was destroyed but rebuilt for a music exposition up in seattle a few years ago.

wheres the bimbo with the cell phone?

note from a (former) "the thing" owner: the name of the VW was "the thing" not "thing". it is therefore more approriate to refer to it in terms of, for instance, "look at the the thing" rather than "look at the thing". another in the many strange stories one learns when one owns a vehicle for 30 years! another is that it was dubbed "the thing" by advertising types when the original name (and the name it was sold under in south america among other places) "safari", was trademarked for the "grand safari" wagon by whomever (oldsmobile?) it was originally called a "trekker" in europe and throughout most of the world. and a kubelwagen actually bears only a passing resemblance to the "the thing"/safari/trekker, in fact they are much more different than alike. ho hum nice model by the way. i have a plastic 1/32 the thing that i plan to build one day. no one i know has ever seen it before or since...i got it in the early days of ebay before all the jackels began circling!

>easily identified by the vertical valve covers huh. the motor im talking about has vertical valve covers now, whether its what is referred to as a "buick nailhead" or not may be a different matter altogether...

heres something that may or may not be related: rover co ltd in the uk bought the rights or whatever to the buick aluminum block V8 that may or may not be the "nailhead"...kinda looks like what i think of when i think of that term. so what you ask? well southeast finecast makes a KILLER white metal version of the motor with SU carbs for either the morgan or rover. and i would assume it would be easy to put some 4bbl carbs or supercharger or whatever on it and have one hell of a detailed motor. i could be way off base here though so excuse me for possible ignorance in american iron terminology

WOW!!!

mclaren mercedes cobra daytona 57 cheby any year mustang yawn, im bored. i want a maserati birdcage in 1/24 with tamiya standard detail. now THERES something i can get excited over.

thanks for the continued encouragement. ive gotten a bit distracted lately with some other builds: a back-from-the-garbage maserati birdcage slot car (see model racing category for pics) and a toyota mr5 or whatever that is. plus im an investor, recordist and artist liason for a little festival next weekend out west: http://www.snwmf.com and this has been occupying a lot of my time lately. then theres the "real" job every day! but back to this t model ford business...ive been planning how to relieve the body to fit the chassis and also a friend of mine is going to give me some louvered panels from a 37 ford (???) that can be sanded on back to the point they are cut through. i will then attempt to merge them into the sides of the body to break up some of that real estate there that has been bugging me. i will post more pics when i get something substantial done...right now its mostly just staring at it trying to visualize how to do certain things!

those look great! ive still got an old monogram 904 slot car i need to restore using the reissue kit one of these days! or at least i believe its the same thing... not only that but nice work setup there too! i love the way you organize your paint cans. too much spare time? heh heh my place is a mess so im just jealous

not that it applies or anything but convertables are way overrated. ask yourself: if its 100 degrees outside do you want to stand in the shade or in the sun? not to mention with a 60mph wind and 100 degree ambient temp. ive found the answer to be rather clear after owning convertables for 30 years: they are great in the evening but hell during the daytime. and there is no such thing as "security" in them either. might as well just leave your doors unlocked. anyway...i digress, continually

wheels: caster wheels from the fujimi tools set ought to do or from their 356 porsche enthusiasts kit motor stand. man thats your first time soldering? ever? sheesh, where is the exit? thats pretty fine work there.

pretty cool. ive been contemplating building a tamiya karmann ghia with a mazda RX7 twin turbo motor but its not got beyond the contemplating stage yet.

i took a look at a next door neighbors 1:1 2006 mustang yesterday and that ride height looks about right. dorky but right. i told her she needs to have it lowered 3 inches all around and get a shock tower connector bar put in. she ignored me. but the car looks a whole lot better closer to the ground.

ps: cool illustration too. i always wished i could draw!

hey thats a darn good idea jarius, many thanks and i think i will try it out tonite. btw it wasnt my intention that the u-joint *had* to work; its just my recollection that the ones i saw (somewhere) did actually work. i just want them to articulate enough to have the steering shaft appear to be correct but once they are in that position they are gonna stay there. im not up to making the steering wheel steer the wheels (and while im at it i think thats one "feature" on some diecasts that is a waste of engineering time and money but maybe thats just me). many thanks again and you just might see this design on latest pics of the roadster when i post them!

seems to me it was in model cars magazine that i once saw a little feature on some u-joints, and i think it was mentioned they were sourced from a train shop. i looked back through most of my back issues and cant find it. they were metal, resembled actual u-joints, would actually articulate around and act like "real" u-joints. i went to the RR shop but all they had were large plastic very usable for trains but not for cars. these need to be smaller than the typical 1/24 scale driveshaft u-joints, I'm planning on using them for the steering linkage on the dry lakes roadster I'm building. Gregg or Jarius, do either of you know where i can either find that artilce or even better yet, find the u-joints themselves? as usual keep up the good work and jarius i loved that drawing of the motorcycle dude scratching his head over the package address but even more of that trike with the flathead!

that photo was supposed to be 640 X 480 or some such thing...doesnt seem to be though. i remember ruining the russkit wheels as a kid so now ive figured out why they give you two wrenches with them! that body has made some great strides just in the last weekend since i took the photo. will post more at some point. ive got all kinds of old slot car stuff as ive taken to restoring old ones and/or building retro ones. check the other thread i posted for some and maybe i will upload more if there is interest. i was sort of thinking this forum was dead. about the body shown, i have no idea where it came from or who it was made by. i got it in a lot on ebay and it had literally one eighth inch of ugly flourescent orange paint on it and about another eighth of dirt on top of that. couldnt even tell what it was. then i got it and started looking at it: maserati birdcage, not a bad rendition at all. chassis is scratch built with ball bearings in all four wheels and the motor as well. but the body was busted in a couple places: the lower front valance was cut away, the left front fender cracked and a big piece missing, the interior was cut away, etc. so i stripped it down and repaired the problems and shot some paint. but then some filling i did sank or it wasnt as good as i initially thought and it looked like ###### plus i put on too much paint and the detail in the intake screens and headlamp covers was all filled in, so i stripped it again and started over, redoing all the bodywork. then i fabricated the aluminum interior panels you can barely see in the photo, rebuilt the birdcage part using plastic and aluminum tubing, plus a lot more not shown in this photo. to tell the truth im not sure i will use the russkit wires as the rear (wide) ones might well be too wide to fit the fender wells. wish i had two sets of narrows. might end up just using some halibrand kidney wheels or maybe some wire inserts. this car will probably not see much track time in reality; probably run it once or twice and retire it as a show piece. anyone have any idea where this body came from? ive searched high and low for a source but no luck. it is NOT the russkit superlegera body. i faintly remember a birdcage put out by MPC or someone but no one i know remembers it and i know a lot of people who should so i think im just confused on that.

heres an updated photo, this time of brake and fuel lines in place, tube driveshaft, cheater slick detail... next up, fitting the body to the chassis and cleaning it up for paint.

not sure why the pic is so big though!

nice...would be nicer with black tires though! :shock: man i wish there was a 1/32 scale track around here...there is a 1/24 scale one a few miles away but they mostly race blobs. i like models myself. im currently re-building a maserati birdcage i got on ebay in a lot. never seen this body, its hard plastic and not the russkit one. i had to strip about 1/8th inch of funky flourescent orange paint off to even see what kind of body it was, and the brass chassis that came with it has 4 wheel ball bearings (scratch built chassis, not the cleanest in the world but servicable). got it painted and detailed now fitting the windshield which will require a lot of finessing. and i got some russkit spoke wire wheels (remember those?) for front and rear. should look nice when done. will photo it and post them here first but then its onto the (small, home) track and after that its a race car!

heres what i want: lotus "wobbly webs" with dunlop tyres some magnesium halibrand (i believe they were) ten (?) spoke front wheels like used on gasser fiats in the sixties nice halibrand kidney bean wheels front and rear and the last two in 1/8th scale for big drag/deuce/rod etc good luck, i know. one love jah bill

and they wouldnt? time to find another burger king! or pm me and i will get some and send them to you (if they let *me* have any!)

ben i bet if you went over there and bought something and then asked for 10 or so lids they wouldnt mind just giving them to you.