jbwelda

i find a coat of future floor wax over the dull surface, then decal and then re-dull coat works great. no silvering. i love decals. its mostly a matter of learning to prep and apply them and what chemicals work with what decals.

yeah thats killer stuff. i always loved the idea of scratchbuilding in big scale, maybe one of these days i will actually try it!

>find some 1/24 scale motors that I could purchase have you seen the ross gibson engines? ive not seen one in person that i know of but the photos ive seen are very impressive. look for ads in the magazines.

a light color over a dark color isnt going to work so well (eg: yellow over purple). you should probaby mask the area to be the light color when you spray the dark color, and either undercoat the whole thing beforehand with silver or whatever youre going to use for undercoat (most metalflakes are translucent candies arent they?) or after youre done with the darker color shoot your undercoat and then your metalflake in the area you previously masked, masking the dark color this time around. then probably bury the whole thing in clear and polish that flat before a final coat of clear. maybe im wrong but thats what i would do.

all you california people, remember billit proof is THIS COMING WEEKEND! dont miss it, its a lot of fun with or without the model show/contest!

i dont believe ive ever noticed this "laquer" phenomonon under any chrome...maybe i dont look close enough or maybe the kits i build (usually imports) dont have it?

have you tried tamiya synthetic laquers billy? imo while the testors laquers are a big step over their enamels, they still play a distant second fiddle to tamiya as far as coverage, nozzle design and ease of use. one love jah bill

i am a big fan of future...i think its one of the modelling miracle of the modern age. over decals i would just use a q-tip, dip it in future and flow it over the decal(s). i dont think its too thick but if it goes on funny you can completely remove it with ordinary ammonia (which i use to clean my brushes as well). it will protect your decals even against the rigors of slot car racing (with some limits of course).

you guys must use a different csc than i do. i dip chrome in that stuff and its gone right down to the plastic in two minutes. unfortunately they seem to have changed the formula in california and the new stuff doesnt remove paint half as well as it used to. so last time i was in reno i bought some jugs there and its back to its true strength. the "california" (and some other states too im sure) stuff still does the job on chrome plating and fast too.

bump it to the top

wow those cars look HOT!

that looks best of them all i think...because of the old school quality. now dont get me wrong but disks dont work on this bike. and isnt your front disk on backwards? and i would have to ask whats up with the lack of detail on the back of the disks...shouldnt they be drilled through? but as i said the disks kind of dont look right...i would have none on the front and a small drum on the back. as long as i didnt have to ride it that is! cool bike altogether though and very nice paint detailing!

i think i agree with you, its a bit wide, dont know if i would live with it or have to redo it. the effect further down the windscreen is perfect though!

aoshiima, heres a picture of the box art:

thanks wildrice, i was gonna knock back the red trim a bit with some black wash but i also like the grabber orange and daytona yellow in combination and think it will look even better with the interior in...its go mango, grabber orange and flat red. by the way the exterior has been shot with pearl clear that you cannot see too well in the photos (but take it out in the sun!) and then that was buried in a couple coats of clear which was then polished and waxed. its kind of dulled from handling right now but will shine right back up.

just need to do some detail painting, head and tail lamps and put it together...

took some shots of the finished model tonite, this actually turned out too clean for what i had in mind, an authentic barrio ride. one day i will have a go at weathering it some but right now i just kinda cant bother with it. you will notice all kinds of touches like the bungee cord holding in the battery, one of the exhaust tips held on with wire, license plate on coathanger through popped out trunk lock hole. i need to drill an antenna hole still and stick a coathanger in there too. kind of a high riding low rider: OG checks out the motor: close up of motor and engine compartment: what the police car sees: right side, old school swamp cooler: a detail shot of a front wheel, man i see flaws in the pic i never saw in person!: sorry for the kinda fuzzy quality on some of them...

cool man, vintage russkit motor, and nice job on the rear body mount. got any pics of your track?

are those brass hinges? any other details?

no one? cant be!

im curious, has anyone built this, now or in the dim past, and really done a good job of it? seems to me as a kid i could never really do it and i was thinking about investing the time in one but am kinda intimidated by all that flimsy chrome!! anyone have photos of a nice buildup?

i finished this one up a year or so ago, but never took pics of the finished version. i will take it out of the case later this weekend and photo it but for now i want to try out this new photo system, so here comes some "in progress" shots i took along the way. first is the motor and chassis: another shot of motor mounted in chassis: long shot of the interior, showing stereo wires lying all over the place, dashboard striping, mexican blankets over stock upholstery pattern, big old subwoofers, all that stuff to make the earth quake: heres a closer shot of the dash, showing clear rim steering wheel with suicide knob, cd player, hydraulic switches or something of the sort, Jesus picture, and lots of pinstriping: finally an underview of the completed chassis with the body shell mounted: will post more lata

i am planning on moving to kauai in july 07 after i retire so maybe i will see you around! (yeah i know its a different island and honolulu is a world unto itself).

thank you jairus!!!

i learned to use MM enamels pretty well but its difficult getting over the huge amount that comes out of those cans. have only tried the laquers once but like them...however i dropped back to tamiya for the clear coat, coats actually: one pearl clear and then regular clear over that. but tamiya really puts anything testors puts out back on the shelf. i just fell in love with the tamiya buzz cans because they dont just puke out paint, it comes out smoothly and evenly and lays flat and dries fast and polishes well! MM has more colors but the race is getting close in that regard too. i will post some results soon as i just got through polishing the toyota mr-s ive been working on...its two tone grabber orange over daytona yellow (MM laquers) then the tamiya clear scheme explained above. of course after i painted it i decided to relieve the louvers from underneath so you could see through them...bad idea...so now ive had to go into "try to save it" mode and of course i should have a) left it alone or got the bright idea to do that BEFORE i painted the thing! but im afraid patience and planning has rarely been my strong suit.