jbwelda

ah yes i see. thanks for that. i am going to put some louvers into my dry lakes t bucket at some point so i might give this technique a try.

pretty cool! many thanks!

they look pretty even to me, esp after you clean up the left side one a bit with a #11 blade! could you explain your technique a bit more? i lost it with the glueing strips to the saw blade bit. maybe you had to be there? looking good though!

do you have some more pics of that whatever it is that took the prize? sure looks interesting but cant really see much from that angle

yep the future floor wax trick works well for headlight lens and stuff like that; also for photoetch stuff. and one of the BEST uses for it (future floor wax that is) is to protect a windshield from fogging if you want to superglue it in. coat in in future and let it dry and superglue wont fog it at all. works great for hiding scratches in clear plastic too. also for clear coating decals. future floor wax: a miracle in a bottle but to more directly answer the question, there is no glue that works best in all situations. i use mostly zap a gap superglue but also tenax liquid cement, white glue of stuff that doesnt have to be mounted super well but dont want the glue to show on, regular tube glue to weld plastic together and 5 minute epoxy. currently im leaning heavily toward the latter esp if i need a good bond that wont break apart with handling.

another thing is, strive to make your wires look natural. on a real engine the ignition wires dont describe a big stiff arc on the way from dist to plugs; they relax and droop. try to make your model look like that...it takes a bit of doing but gets easier as you go along. also detail sets like detail masters battery hook up kit are great for those little details like the battery cable clamps.

very nice build but i guess i just dont get the remarks above. how would tamiya releasing a diecast prebuilt (i guess is what youre referring to) decrease the enjoyment of building the kit? anyway... nice build mark, makes me want to go out and buy one! and more important, build one!

yes very nice! ive had a question about this kit and now is as good a time as any... is this bantam body the same one that used to be in a revell parts pack? being amt and all i would sort of doubt it but just thought there might be a chance...been looking for a revell parts pack bantam body for a while now...

its a shame really, i was looking forward to people sharing slot car photos esp vintage 1/32 scale over-restorations or clean detailed builds! maybe i will have to upload some more photos of my cars to get things rolling?

> ready for primer then pain dont know if that was on purpose but it describes my paint experiences exactly! a friend of mine has a body shop with a paint booth inside it. over the door to the shop he has a sign: "More On?" pretty well says it all!

ok man thanks a lot. i actually saw that box in the shop and was wondering about those...

ok jarius im going to have to beg your indulgence one more time, remember USA iron is not anywhere near my speciality. so i went to the local hobby shop in search of a monogram 36 ford with those sort of headlamps but there didnt seem to be such an animal. there was an AMT 36 ford but just from the box art it didnt seem to have as exaggerated headlamps as your model does. so is the monogram 36 ford out of production? did you mean the AMT one? do you have any idea where i can get one if its indeed monogram and out of production (i assume the best bet would be ebay) or do you know that it is in fact in production and my hobby shop just doesnt know about it? anyway many thanks again

nice job on that windshield...that sort of thing separates you pros from us (me) amateurs! im going to have to find that 36 ford! many thanks again for the info

as with all their products, its darn hard to beat tamiya quality. you pay, but you get what you pay for. ive pretty much forgotten about model master paints now that tamiya laquers are widely available. you can polish them in a couple days too as versus 4 weeks for your enamel like model master. and their tape: the best out there. have you ever tried their seemingly ridiculously priced paint brushes? finest i have ever used and dont fall apart!

hey jarius: not that i want you to give all your secrets away but where did you get that duval windshield (i take it thats what it is), that skull shift knob and those cool pod headlights? i got something going on right now that *needs* those headlamps!

thanks for that gregg. yeah i always warm up my paint cans in warm water to increase pressure and aid in paint flow. i think in essence my problem is patience. lack of patience to be more precise. everytime i go to paint something i think "okay only a little at a time" but before you know it im shooting a "flow coat"! thanks again, that yellow sure looks nice over the red. that sort of makes sense when you think of it though... now im off to attempt (my third attempt i might add) to paint this maserati birdcage slot car body yellow. again...i must use mist coats i must use mist coats i must use...DOH!!! maybe i will post pics of the runs! im hoping for all hits no runs no errors this time!

your yellow looks very nice here. could you share some tips on getting yellow to cover? ive never had much luck with it no matter what i do. i read somewhere to lay down a base of gold and shoot yellow over it but that didnt really help. it always seems to disappear from the highlights and pool up (and eventually run) in the low areas or along the rocker panels. keep in mind i dont have an airbrush but use buzz cans. that makes it difficult to build up paint coats because so much comes out at once and if you step back and try to dust it on it is never very smooth even with a final flow coat. so whats the secret?

funny, i just sold a VW Thing i have owned and improved for 20 years, i was going to post a photo but cant access image shack from here! anyway i have a model i would like to enter in this contest but its already completed. is that possible? its a mid 60s land rover 108 done up off road style. i can post photos if you would like. or is this contest only for cars built during the time period on the poster? also have a kubelwagen and schwimmwagen already built some time ago. ps: got rid of the thing but still have a 85 toyota land cruiser fj60 with a chevy small block in it! now *thats* a real trail machine! one love jah bill

>Can't wait to see this one on a contest table somewhere!!! only real "contests" i go to are NNL West which as you know isnt a contest. then maybe the SF rod and custom show at cow palace sometime in jan or feb, or the autorama in sacramento. i might even have it done in time for one of those! by the way the club i belong to here in sacramento, city styles, puts on a "modelrama" contest in september but im usually in hawaii when that one rolls around. i keep telling the main man that we ought to be in the club registry in model cars mag but somehow we dont get it together, too busy building probably! anyway thanks for all the good words folks, it keeps me going on this one!

and heres a couple of pics from the other day, before mounting the motor, but with an austin resin body im thinking about using as an alternative to the T bucket . im not sure why the top photo is so much larger than the bottom; they were supposed to be sized the same 640 X 480

heres my work table, such as it is: note the 1/32 revell cobra slot car body; i NEED a windshield bad to fit the rarely found fastback roof! please help!

an update, got a chance to do a little work and heres some updated photos. not shown here is firewall template i completed but havent actually fitted as yet. here is the motor in the frame; the front wheels are not attached and the rears were until the axle broke away during motor fitting, i will be re-engineering that in the next day or so! heres a shot of the motor in the frame from the right rear; check out the wicked exhaust header from a Morgan/Buick V8: and one from the right front. note that there are a lot of loose ends at this poiint, fuel lines are askew, brake lines a bit loose still. all that needs the tighten up after i re-fix the axle with pins and epoxy. next its on to fitting the body around the motor and frame...

are you the same billy kingsley who built that jaguar powered rat rod in the latest issue (contest issue)? i mean, you gotta be, right? nice work and cool concept. just wanted to say that and draw attention to the fact you got a car in the mag.

i dig that 'vair. theres one like it down the street from me that ive been trying to get the guy to sell. convertable corsa, turbo, all stock but on american mags and lowered all around.

>Because they are basically the same car. Ford Maverick Mercury Comet. >They had different grills and tail lights. From the side they look the same. oh. i must have lost track of comets by that point, when i think of comets i think of mid 60s. i guess then later on the comet was a rebadged maverick?