jbwelda

Its Charlie Manson and fellow friends from Father Flanigan's Boys Town circa 1955 jb

>Then strip it and paint it yourself. Simple. yep simple. I have a better word for it: stupid. I for one am not spending money on a prepainted kit to have to go through the extra work of stripping it. and of course removing mold lines requires that the car be stripped and repainted. this junk is just that: junk for kids. let it go. jb

>If Revell, or any other company that produced pre-painted kits, were to offer PERFECTLY FINISHED bodies let me just butt in here to say whats been said before but evidently some amongst us are reading challenged: NO ONE IS ASKING FOR "perfectly finished" BODIES. NO ONE. they are asking for bodies that don't have paint running down the side of them like they were done by a 10 year old. THATS what people are asking for. and I do not see a problem with that. I also see NO REASON for those parting lines...if they wanted a quality product they could have tooled it without those being so obvious and I bet it would not have cost one red cent more. its just either a totally failed attempt at appealing to actual modellers, or those things are just aimed at kids (and uncle scott, apparently). either way I don't think I have ever seen a prepainted model with a paint job I would keep. whoever picks the colors in most cases is design challenged and typically they have such garish "graphics" that any car that looked like that would get laughed at or worse in my neighborhood. jb

>I wouldn't have to sand and polish it either YMMV jb

I don't know if anyone else noticed this on Amazon, but this parts pack which includes two complete Japanese Engines as well as some seats and belt hardware and some other bits, is available from an outfit called Japan Subculture for under 15$ including postage. very good deal, almost unbelievable, I thought maybe the motors were not included but indeed they are. heres some pics of whats included: box and instrux: kool decals: two complete engine stands: engines: if you look closely you can see the source of the sprues is the Fairlady 240Z car chrome for engine dress up: and interior racing parts and details: get some resin turbos and those motors will look great! I don't really know how much other model stuff this company carries but with prices like this its worth looking into. I still can't believe the price, it had to cost nearly that much just to ship from Japan in a nice new (big too) box. ought to jump on these before someone figures out they are losing money on them! jb

there was a time, back when this place was a lot more friendly and a lot more open to ideas that didn't get conceived before I was born, when I believe this Gregg fellow HIMSELF said how this isn't a competition and everyone is friends and the high road was going to be taken by this rag vis a vis "the other". I guess that all went out the door what with homeland security and all that huh? its a new low in my book and I don't mind saying so. I prefer to think we are all united in modeling and what they do "over there" should not affect what is done "over here". it is yet another sad day my friends and I think I hear a clock ticking away somewhere. jb

Future is plastic floor wax, its actually called something else these days "with Future shine". search around here a little and you will see threads about it. fantastic stuff. Harry, not in my experience, thanks anyway. jb

well yeah it does matter, as it explained in an article recently in I think Scale Auto magazine. if you paint them after you clear, any slop can be polished out without disturbing the color coat. but if you paint them directly on the paint and you smear a little that needs cleaning up, you are likely to destroy the color coat doing so and have to strip and repaint. also if you touch them up with a sharpie, and spray clear, the sharpie will run and ruin everything. after clear, no problem touching up with sharpie (or for that matter using a red one to color the lenses). I would personally recommend painting them after the clear, first paint them chrome and then some transparent orange or red or whatever they are supposed to be. after that dries, a drop of Future on the marker will seal them and give them a good gloss. jb

I don't understand how come no 1/24 Lotus Elise/Elige has ever appeared. you would think Tamiya, who apparently has a license to do Lotus cars, would have jumped on it in a moment. or one of the other high line Japanese companies. very strange because that is and was a truly revolutionary 21 century design. jb

great looking T! that has to be the Ed Roth Tweedy Pie kit? I have that amigos pack you started with and yours really looks better than the little hot wheels one that came with it! jb

I would say 5 to 10 each, but for all, would be fair. if its for insurance your premium is going to be based in part on declared value, and you are going to reach diminishing returns pretty quickly. so especially for unboxed kits, on average 5 to 10 per. jb

too much, this just keeps getting better. I gotta go back and read where you bent those tubes and stuff, got a similar project coming up and could use some tips. I take it they are actually rod and not tube? jb

wow from that posting above sounds like they are on the verge of calling this sale too much trouble and not having it again in the future. that would be a real shame. and they are right, they are apparently NOT in the retail sales game, so this is double PIA for them to deal with. I really cannot believe anyone would hold them to a free shipping policy when they are getting half off the msrp. just doesn't make business sense, not to mention common sense, that they would also throw in free shipping. and its kinda funny, kinda sad that people would argue that the price BEFORE THE discount was > 100$ so therefore they should get free shipping (that's after their common sense failing them in step one). AND THEN to think this free shipping was going to get the stuff to their door like overnight or something (you start realizing that Darwin might have been on to something there). its fifty per cent off people, one half price. even discounters aren't going to be offering them at that price. don't look the gift horse in the mouth, know what I mean? I wish I had ordered a couple other items now, but I have been going too crazy with the paypal lately as it is. I just hope it kools out and they do have another sale next year. but anyone thinking person would see the folly of announcing such a possibility a year out, and particularly on the cusp of a lot of really groundbreaking releases. if it weren't for Christmas, everyone would be holding their breath for the "sale" coming up and then they would get inundated with orders that one day! jb

man I got to say, besides the promised releases from Mobieus, this blue whateveryoucallit is pretty much #1 on my must get list. a really kool kit and the scuba stuff is super kool to see back again. even the box art is very appealing (as it was the first times around). jb

>But, as a full time seller oh I see the problem now. you are kind of bugged that someone else came up with your idea of living off of ebay. and you want people to buy a complete kit, from you, rather than mere parts from your competitor. sorry, not much sympathy from this corner. jb

>instead of destroying markets exactly what "markets" are they destroying and how are they destroying them? I fail to see any connection there. jb

1. world peace 2. free weed 3. lots of spare time 4. reggae music in the top ten 5. twenty more wishes edit to add: 6. oh yeah, and all my paint jobs come out like how I want them to. that's the most unlikely of the lot. jb

really sharp! I don't believe I have ever seen that kit before, with those front splitters like that. great job and looks kool in white. jb

Toyota FJ60 Land Crusher: jb

in my opinion, and there are a lot who disagree with me, you are playing with fire with that clear you have. might work out fine, might eat down into the paint or check or a myriad of other problems. if you ask me, Tamiya clear every time. Model Master gloss clear is good too, its ultra "wet look" if that's the look you are after. its just that its nozzle is pretty "heavy" and its easy to overdo it. in case you DO overdo it with the clear, don't freak out, just let it dry and curtain down, when it dries it will be a lot less apparent and you can smooth it before the polishing stage by sanding it smooth. as for the polishing, like I said, you want to preserve your paint job with the first coats of clear, then polish that, then decal and reclear, and do a final polish on the final clear coat. good luck and have fun jb

kool! just grabbed the 56 tim flock 300B for 18$ plus 8 shipping. wish they had all the new stuff available already! looked around the site some and they do have a very impressive collection of monster and sci fi figures. really tempted on some of those monsters of my youth! jb

if you have good coverage with that color coat, and its not obviously orange peeled or anything, and you are basically happy with it, I would not polish it at this stage. I would apply a coat of clear or two, and allow that to gas out for a week or two. in the meantime I would get a polishing kit. now that means a lot of different things to a lot of people, but what I mean is a graduated set of emery cloth from 3000 to 12000 grit. take the polishing kit, follow the instructions or you can find good ones here on this site if you look around a bit, and give your clear coat a polish from probably about the 4000 down to probably the 8000 grit. at this point you are going to think you have screwed yourself because the finish will look dull, but what you've done is polish down the surface to a nice even level (you can feel it when you run your fingers over the body, feels WAY smoother than what you thought was smooth before). the problem is that it is pretty easy to cut down through the paint on the raised highlights; that's helped a bit by the clear coats you have already applied, and many times if you just barely cut down to primer it can be repaired successfully. then you can apply your decals, use some decal solvent like solva-set, and then after they dry for at least a day, shoot a final shiny coat of your clear and let it sit. a few days later you should repeat the polishing, this time for real, and probably start with the 6000 cloth, go all the way through the 12000 (again being careful not to cut down through the clear to the decals or all the way to primer) and then put on some plastic "wax" finish like mcquires liquid. you will be amazed at the result I guarantee it. jb

that thing is looking KOOL! jb

want to talk about how much you are going to be in for to restore or even refurbish a well kept jaguar xk120? models are mere pocket change. jb

which was about as bright as disallowing headlamps that turn with the front wheels, like on the Citroen big cars. You wouldn't want to see around the corner you are going through now would you. America is so full of idiots sometimes, especially those who make the rules. jb