jbwelda

there was a "diamond in the rough" last week on ebay that went for mid 30s if I recall correctly. and you see the blueprinter editions from time to time. so, not incredibly rare or anything, plus it was released in a half dozen kits at least. you can also find them singly and built up on ebay as well as in their original kits. jb

thanks Bill, that's very revealing being able to see build ups of both for comparison sake. I always assumed it was a Merit. it does look like the Merit kit has a smooth cowl while the Heller one it is split with a seam up the middle. you didn't build the Heller but you built the Merit? did you fill that seam or was it a complete piece from the box? jb

I would think that after the fact tinkering with a kit to make variations, kustomizations, etc is a sure sign of consumer interest in and enthusiasm for the kit. That to me would indicate potential for longevity in the market, which would have to warm any industry executives heart. jb

if you used testors model master enamels a soak in the purple pond (Super Clean, Purple Power etc) should take it off. what I think you might have done wrong is used a flat paint instead of a gloss. a gloss will take longer to dry than the flat. it sounds to me like maybe you had thin and thick spots of paint and it really stuck to the thick spots and not to the thin areas. using the gloss paint and also trying to apply it a little more evenly ought to straighten out the problem. if the gloss sheen still shows up and you don't like it, give it an overcoat of testors Dullcote. I have never used embossing powder. any tips on low cost/low shipping suppliers? jb

that stuff even smells like cancer. I use it but am very wary of it...I apply it with the end of the nozzle, the end that sticks down in the bottle. just barely touch it to the joint and it will flow. I have actually just held it very near the joint and blown on it with my breath and it seemed to work, like even the vapors are active. but I always wash my hands and sometimes the joint itself with water and soap after using it...as I said I am wary of it because it just smells chemical. jb

is that a reboxed merit kit? jb

you can scuff them up but the Dullcote is the secret. watch out though: I have noticed that the tire with dullcote will stick to whatever it touches, usually the ground. will almost cement itself to it. that's after weeks or months of it drying. don't know if its the rubber, or the dullcote, or the combination but its been happening to me. also I have had the tire sidewall completely crack up after getting sprayed with Dullcote but that only happened once so it was probably the tires jb

hey Cato, someone ought to pin that in the tips area or something, one of the best explanations of weathering I have ever read; I have to try some of those tips next time I do a bit of weathering. many thanks and man that Roller is looking like its real! jb

>Cheetah 1:8 500 clams I could see that for a full detail model. I would be saving my pennies that's for sure jb

> Although I don't know if the Cube could pull the trailer! well it IS "Moon Equipped"! jb

funny thing to note is that the chevy engine is a clone of the Mooneyes engine complete with front mount blower and distinctive exhaust pipes! jb

well yes you are right if you take it back that far. I meant as far as the L7 in kit form having much in common with a standard A7. thanks for the correx though jb

anything will fit, given enough work, but I think you are safest to go the DD route. I do believe the instrux in the stevens international version may even say that's what its a perfect match for, but maybe its just that I wrote myself a note in there to that effect. so I would say use the parts pack chassis if you want challenging, or the DD if you want less of a challenge. personally I wish AMT would release some new stuff in the parts packs, besides the wheels and tires I mean. these have been released not that long ago and while nice aren't essential. I vote for a fully optioned Buick nailhead with pure stock parts and various intakes and dress up stuff. now THAT I would get excited about! jb

fyi a lotus seven has little or nothing to do with an Austin seven jb

lets see the quad cam! jb

thanks again for looking and for any comments! jb

Long build thread here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78785&page=1 so I will let the final pics do the talking here. A few problems remain, one rear tire on dragster has come off rim slightly and I don't like it but can't fix it, yellow front wheel hub caps on dragster are now prototypically correct chrome. comments critiques questions cheerfully entertained. -more- jb

I think its fairly incredible how these folks are going from talk to actual production model. if all they have announced actually come out, anywhere near announced delivery date, I think they will have won whatever contest there might be for that sort of thing! . jb

>4) Accurate Miniatures Corvettes. Beautifully tooled and detailed. >5) Accurate Miniatures McLarens too. Same reasons. See, there's "impressed" and then there's just plain intimidated. I fall firmly into the second category on these kits, both of which I have multiples of! I was actually thinking about using one of the engines in something else because I doubt I will ever rise to the challenge of these. And I say "challenge" advisedly knowing for example the chassis situation on the 'vettes & the "fitting it all together" aspect of the McLaren... jb

I remember being the most impressed I have ever been (with a model) when I first opened a Fujimi Porsche 356 Enthusiasts Model. I could not believe the sheer volume of the parts inside, the incredible level of detail obvious even without opening the inner cellophane bags. the beautifully molded wheels with lug nut holes and beautiful tires. everything about it was incredible. that new Trabant Universal is excellent too, very nice fine engraving. look forward to butchering it. jb

testors reboxed a few of the fujimi enthusiast model kits so give them some credit for that. jb

>I hope not, I'd be too embarrassed you could always walk. jb

I am really bugged that one of my recent builds exhibits one of the previously mentioned problems...darn tires don't fit the rims or at least they don't seem to but I know they did, at one point. its painfully obvious and the worst part is they are epoxied on there tight; add to that that the wheels themselves are wrong for the car so the whole thing is a mess. and don't think that I don't know about it! right now I am wondering how successful I might be dremelling out the inside of the wheel around the aluminum tubing axle. its gonna have to be that drastic because otherwise too much force on the wheels is going to tear the interior apart and I don't want that. I have tried all the gentle ways I can think of to at least coax that tire up onto the wheel. the more I look at it the more likely it is I will have to tear it apart and redo it, somehow. bummer. well, ya live and ya learn. jb

yes I was going to suggest Tamiya, their metallics and mica paints have a very fine grain to them. jb

agree with Art and especially if you soak the piece in Wesleys BleechWhite for a night and then prime before painting...never had a problem with paint adhesion jb