10thumbs

JR, no pics.

Hello Bernard, I'm nuts too about hot rods, and yours is showing some nice details. Since this is a workbench build, I have to say those wheels fit horribly in the tires. Can you fix them? I really feel that the wheel/tire fitment is an important issue in car model kits. This is a very good example of what I'm writing about. Let the wheels be resin this, and resin that, but they have to finally fit. Those don't. I hope you take no offense. Michael

Thanks JR, your words are encouraging! I'm gonna give it a try. The static thing makes sense, although I'm surprised that plastic can act like this. I'll wash it next time. I have a boatload of plastic spoons that are a wonderful testing ground. Even those small surfaces get dust!! I can't wait to try your method. I have lots of model kits coming my way, and I'm going to do hot rods and altereds, and those 33 Willys just kill me. I have 2 already in boxes.With practice, some of them are getting candy paint on them. Now, go and find yourself a kid who can fix your PC! Don't pick him up though in your fuel altered, Mom/Dad may want to ride instead. Michael

Thanks guys. JR and Bill-Ace GarageGuy, some very good information and I'm working on sorting the info out. Terminology for instance, flash and the various coats, intercoat and all of these things is new to me. When you two come up to bat, I'm looking closely! Here's the scoop; I've just recently, let's say in the last few weeks figured out how to use my AirBrush successfully. Any paint I try, Acrylic from a Hobby and Crafts Shop (no model kits there, just Hobby and pro artists' stuff), Revell Acrylic paints, even my beloved Humbrol Enamels, I've learned to do them well. I'm set to move on! I can safely say I can handle my AirBrush, this doesn't mean I'm a good painter, but I'm progressing. The biggest problem I have is dust, and hard small particles that love to land on my wet paint! If three particles are in the room, two of the bastar...s land on my wet paint. That's another problem. I've in the meantime kind of figured that such cool paint jobs, and cool colors are more for the advanced model builder, or for an experienced real world paint pro. I saw recently a model car that blew my mind. It was so shiny and smooth I could see the new cavity on my tooth! Plus the car had pinstripes on the hood and trunk as a novelty. This is over my head. But Tony's method above is sounding more and more like a hit. JR, do you have a candy paint job you can show us? Or some cool pin striping? Thanks, Michael

Thanks JR, I know that you wrote all of that in English. But I don't comprehend. So, hold on, I'll take an English Course for Ongoing Spray Painters and I'll get back. Let me read it a couple of more times. Michael

OK....got it. Michael

Hi Nick, I've tried a bunch of plastic spoons, great tip by the way. The spoons are white. I've tried different shades of primer, or in this case just a covering coat of paint, grey, flat red, 3 different golds, and just using the white plain plastic without any pre-painting. You write "use a base coat over your primer"...and let it completely dry out. What is the color of the base coat? Do you mean silver or gold as a backgound for the candy color to be used? Be it blue or green or red. Just asking to clear up, and to get detailed info. I'm not even sure I need a primer, or is the primer a must, even if the plastic is flawless? Michael

Hi guys, Since my 64 Color Me Gone Dodge is just about finished (needs decals), I'm planning my next model. Since I need some simple hands on refresh time, I want to do a kit that pretty much OOTB. So, a Revell 32 Ford gets the call. I'll use a different engine though, but I want a real snappy paint job. Is candle apple red a possibility for an average Joe type painter like me? Any hints from painters here? Thanks, Michael

Hi Robin, You're absolutely right! Great info. I'm really pleased to get some inside look into these things. Blowers are cool, but I want Hilborn-Type injection. I looked on YouTube and found one Kinsler injection setup, on the dyno. The engine made 800hp, but amazing was, at idle, the amount of gas going in to each stack! Jeez, I'm not talking about a spray, I'm talking about a solid stream of gas! Not a setup for the thrifty minded.... Michael

YES! Guys, this is some very fine first hand talk here. We can look a lot on the web for info, but here on a model car forum we're getting real race car info! I'm ....flabbergasted! lol. (Sorry for the word, my recently deceased Mom had a wonderful vocabulary). I'm happy. I understand now a bit that the tubes were supposed to swirl the air, and not meant to let the injectors breathe pure air rammed in like in a front scoop. Cool. @jwrass, "diameters were fixed based on the manifold you had". What would determine the manifold size to begin with? Would the manifold size be according to the intake size of the head, or of the power that a racer was looking to get? Was there back then such a choice of sizing? Or was the injector manifold, or more of a bar type application as far as I can tell, more of a standard size. Meaning small block,or big block? I like this kind of stuff. Very good background info from guys that know. Good info for model car guys too! Thanks for your interest, Michael

OK. I was in my hobby shop today looking at I-Beam material for a hot rod I'm going to build. I want to make a dropped axle for the front. I'm interested inips for soldering. I have a flame unit as well. Michael

Hi Lucas, the car is looking right! How did you solder the joints, electric or flame? Michael

Thanks Manuel! I can just imagine those cars had some traction problems. Maybe some racers from back in the day could chime in and give some insight too? Like John alias Old Coyote! Michael

Excellent Jim, thanks a bunch. So I can use 3mm metal cylindrical tubes for a big block, perfect! I held them up to a 1:25 motor and the 3mm pipes looked about right, but now I'm sure. I just don't want to always have to build blown motors for gassers and F/A cars. I like injected motors on models too. Michael PS: Wasn't Spring Grove, Pa the home of some well known racers from a while back?

Hello guys, I'm getting my model kits lined up now for the "to do list". None of these altered or hot rod models have Hilborn Injection. But I know how to make things, so.... What was the size of the injector stacks? I know the length was dependent upon many factors, but what was the general diameter? Was there any difference between the stacks of the A/FX Hemi motors, and maybe a 392 Hemi? What about the SBC's? I have several possibilities for some real nice scale pieces, but I need the diameter, in inches. Thanks, Michael

Wow, 50 years ago and a Corvair is still around! Excellent. 1964. Ole George Nader whooped bad on Corvairs, got them off the road. This time must have been about the beginning of some kind of "safety swing" from Detroit. I can still remember outside rear view mirrors was an extra, especially on the right side. John, about the time you did this Corvair, I had a 65 Mustang that went under heavy surgery. Altered wheelbase, my first attempt, moved the engine back till it was under the windshield, and fixed up an interior with thin cardboard that I painted silver/grey. Cool cars, and building models that were not like the directions showed was an adventure. Please keep this "time witness" as is, it's better than great! Michael

Well how much quicker were double engined dragsters anyway? Double the horsepower is obvious, maybe a second quicker? Cool models. Michael

For us guys living outside of the US, we're gonna have fun finding something similar to NAPA stuff. We have Duplicolor here in Germany, and I do like their grey primer, it fills nicely and dries fast, and seems at least to me to be compatible to other brands. I may have to bend someones ears to get closer info about ingredients, so that I can maybe get close to what you guys are recommending. Michael

Those are some fantastic looking models. Excellent! Are they Gas Dragsters? Michael

Gene, could you please let it be. I like the info here, some of these guys know their stuff. I think your trolling, and off topic. Sorry guys, and thanks too for the valuable info. Michael

It's true. Better yet, is a dental lab. Michael

Hi guys, I realize Miss Deal is not an altered, I wanted to find out more or less what could be done to the thing. Which bodies have you guys put on it, and so forth. The real altered model kits are scarce, and as far as I know only the AMT Winged Express/Bantam Blast kits offer a decent fuel altered platform. Hence, kitbashing time. I reqlly had no idea what the chassis even looks like on the Miss Deal car. Tom Geiger, thanks for showing! Now I have an idea what's coming at me. Ray, ditto. That's a hairy looking ride there. Nick, are you going OOTB with yours? Thanks for helping, Michael

Simca! I had one when I was younger, and new to Europe. Small car, rear engine. From a distance, you couldn't tell if it was coming or going. Like a small shoebox. The hood, and the trunk lifted up, the dang car looked the same whichever direction you looked! It was pretty quick though, for such a small car. Fun to drive as well. Amazing the room inside, with the front floorboard flat. I had lots of fun and good memories thinking about the Simca. Michael

Thanks James for the link and book recommendation. You have a PM. I've run across some Resin bodies that look interesting, and I've found out the Revell early funny cars are a good foundation. Research is fun! Michael

Excellent! Thanks guys. I was looking at the "Awful Altereds" Website, and then at different Resin shops, I'm getting the picture now. For the altereds, is it possible to use a 70's - 80's funny car chassis? They seem a lot more detailed than the Miss Deal car. Anyone have some insight? Michael