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10thumbs

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Everything posted by 10thumbs

  1. Hello folks, What other body could I use for the Miss Deal kit? I ordered the thing for some parts, and/or eventually using the foundation to build something else. I like altereds, but I'll admit I need to do lots of research to get them right if I want to start bashing kits. The Wild Willy Borsch / Bantam Roadster kits are hard to find so I would like to ask here for some thoughts. Thanks in advance, Michael
  2. Hi Niko, good progress you're showing. How's the weather in your area? For the guys that aren't aware, the Scandinavian racers are hardcore. Sweden, Norway maybe not so much, but Finland has some excellent engineering and bad-a## cars. They can even in some areas, and do, race them in the street with sanctioned events! Big motors in small cars is not only in the USA! Greetings, Michael
  3. Excellent! The tip about the soapy water makes good sense. Michael
  4. Hello Jim, You've started with a good one. Good luck and good times with the progress, things are looking good. Michael
  5. Hi Mike, thanks for the info about the kit. I have a couple of 3 window 32 coupes waiting in the shadows, and I'm real enthused about your project! Question: Your cutting lines look very, very even and clean. Is there a lot of material loss on the doors? You mentioned a machinist's tool. Could you tell us how you cut the doors and roof? Good stuff in progress here. Michael
  6. Another thing about flash is, the reproduced object is probably thicker than the original mold, although minimal depending on the size of the object and the material used. Anyway, flash is the stuff that's thinner and doesn't belong there. Michael
  7. Bill, it's OK. I wasn't serious. I do understand though, want and need. I feel the same way, as most of here do too. Good luck with your crummy old 63's. Keep us posted on the progress. Michael
  8. I agree, the 32's are a must for most modellers. I like to see them. Which kit are you bashing? Michael
  9. Correct. This squishing out of material from a mold happens when steel or other metal is poured into a cast as well, especially when the mold is two or more pieces. Imagine pressing the buns of a juicy Hamburger together and the good stuff that squishes out....that's good flash. I deal with flash in my job. Lots of work, but necessary to get the piece polished out. Resin products will have flash showing too. The Lindberg 64 Dodge I'm working on has a lot of flash on the smaller pieces. Michael
  10. Tommy, your 63 Dodge is beginning to look nasty! I love it! Michael
  11. I'm happy this is cleared up. Bill, I'm not sure about this either, but a guy doesn't really need two Johan 63 Dodges. Wanna donate one maybe? There is a risk you know that one could get crashed. I'll even trade. I have two Lindberg 64 Dodges that are still in a box. Michael
  12. Hi Bill, As I understand the wrecked car (rear brake problems) was a 64. The team prepared a new one (originally a slant six!) very quickly, even painting the red stripes with a rattle can in the pits. The 63's I'm not sure about. Michael
  13. Hi Cory, welcome to the forum. You're lucky to still have access to all of those old models, but since you have hands-on experience, I'm sure we can earn a lot from you. I'll bet you have lots of pics. Am I right? Michael
  14. Hi Anthony, Very nice car! Nice paint job too. OK, I'm going to criticize something, not your technique, but your choice of wheels. Were the steel rims and nut caps your idea, or was this an option or even a mandatory from the kit? The thing is, you're showing a 68 R/T Charger. That was a top of the line performance Dodge back in the day. I don't think they were turned over with steel rims, but rather with Mopar wheel options or chrome hub caps. Since the car has a 440, probably a wheel option other than steel rims was standard equipment. Then, if the car did have steel rims, they were probably in body color. But this is just maybe a question I had about the car, and it's configuration. Something else that sticks out is the gear shift. They were definitely chrome, I've had enough Mopar 4 speeds when they were new cars. A very nice model. May I ask how you did the paint, and what you did to get that nice gloss? Michael
  15. Hi Bobby, yep. Looks like a hot rod to me. Cool color too. Nice and clean. Which kit is it? Michael
  16. Hi Shane, What a gorgeous model! Very clean and well made. What did you do to get the paint to shine so nicely? Michael
  17. Dave, can you tell us how you got that great shine on the paint job? Did the motor come with the kit? Also, which kit is it? I have the Revell 51 Anglia coming my way along with a few others. I can't wait. I'm nuts about gassers, altereds and hot rods. Michael
  18. Hey, good stuff to hear! Congrats. Roland, soon you can just strap him on your back and he can look over your shoulder. Michael
  19. 5 Grand for that? The car looks as good as it did back then. I'll bet those dudes don't look that good anymore. As a matter of fact, in my opinion, those dudes didn't look too happy, or very good at all. I love family reunions. I'll bet they were thinking, "alright ma, take your dang snapshot and let me out of here". Greg, just a little 1000 grit on the body, and a touch up with black satin on the frame, put a hemi in it and go for it. No dog dish caps though, those only work on Mopars. Michael
  20. Hi Jim, I'm quite enthused about your project! You're right, I think hot rods/gassers is the way for me to proceed now, as there is no real set way you have to go, but many that you may go. About the windows/numbers. Others may correct me, but you could make it a "bracket car" by just putting on the window the lowest et the car would supposed to run. You pick this number yourself. Like in the case of a blown hemi in a street hot rod, "10.35" would probably work. Traction would probably be a problem, plus you would be banned from the drag strip when you go below 11 seconds. Your cage is insufficient. But who cares, one or two runs to see what it will do would be fun. Robert
  21. OK, Brad I read through the link and I think I understand now, but it is a little confusing. Bottom line seems to be, the Revell is a better overall kit as opposed to AMT, but AMT has it's plus points too, both depending on which model you choose. Great. I'll order the Revell current red 40/41 gasser, and the AMT 33 Ohio George model. Heck, I'll order two 41's, and get a nice Resin Pickup Kit. So, now I'll have to get to them un-built Hemi's that are laying around my desk. Thanks, Michael
  22. Hi Dave, You got it right! Gassers need cool paint jobs, period. Yours is cool. Michael
  23. Very nice model, and cleanly built. What kind of "issues" does the kit have? I ordered several gassers and hot rods, and was thinking about this one but passed. Anyone? Michael
  24. Hi Jimmy, I was looking at that Flintstone 63 Dodge too. I have the 64 Plymouth Savoy, the post door car, and it's pretty rough looking. Compared to the Lindberg 64 Belvedere, the wheelbase and body is shorter too. Maybe it's a 2% altered wheelbase body, at any rate the frame will need some attention to make it fit. How did your 63 fit? Does it match up the wheel openings on the frame? Michael
  25. I do lots of projects on the balcony too. I was told by an old veteran model builder, the best time to paint a model is after a rain shower. No dust in the air. Enjoy your build. Michael
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