StevenGuthmiller

Well, whatever the reason, it seems to set faster on the card than on the parts. Steve

Usually it’s a thinner cardboard, sometimes with a coating on it, not your typical corrugated cardboard. But I don’t discriminate. Whatever I happen to have laying around the shop. Steve

Sort of, but not nearly as scientifically. I just go by past experience and feel. Steve

Well, as I said, with this particular product, (and I use it all of time) it definitely takes longer than 5 minutes to begin to tack up. I'll usually set the timer on my phone for somewhere around 10 minutes after applying the glue and then leave the shop. After that initial time, I'll return and periodically check the glue remaining on the card until it feels right. Strangely enough, in most cases, the glue on the card will actually set quicker than the glue on the parts, so I generally have additional time. I suppose the quicker set time on the card is probably due to absorption as I just use pieces of regular cardboard. Steve

Well, maybe we should approach this discussion from a purely analytical stand point, and remove the emotional. I get it, people sometimes get triggered when someone dismisses or condemns their product of choice, but my observations have nothing to do with the individual, but rather the performance of a particular material. And yes, I understand that some people will record good results with darn near anything, but my question is, which product is the least likely to perform to expectations, and which is the most likely to excel. I approach that question from this stand point. If one were to make a list of the advantages of one product over the other, the answer becomes clearer. From my view, Rustoleum enamel spray cans have a few advantages, for the sake of this discussion, over most lacquers. Those advantages being, that it's cheaper, more easily obtainable, and you get more product for your money. Unfortunately, none of those advantages have anything at all to do with the performance of the product itself. When you consider only the performance of the material itself and take the emotion out of it, there are many actual material advantages of lacquer over an enamel such as Rustoleum. #1. Spray performance is almost always superior with lacquer in a spray can, as you've eluded to when you mentioned the propensity for Rustoleum nozzles to clog. This is partially due to just bad nozzles, but it also has to do with the paint itself being much thicker It's thicker because it's designed specifically as a one shot product that covers in a single coat, (maybe 2) so therefore it only makes sense that it will clog nozzles much more easily. #2. Drying and curing times are miles away from one and other. Lacquers can be dry to the touch in a matter of minutes, where an enamel can take hours to days before it can be safely handled. Complete curing times could be a couple of days with lacquer, and weeks to even months with enamel. #3. Re-coat issues can be a huge problem with enamels, (especially Rustoleum) as this is the most often seen problem that I witness. Re-coating at the wrong interval can cause disastrous results and determining the proper re-coat times can be guess work at best. While the can will have instructions, those instructions will not take into account factors such as atmospheric conditions, which can throw re-coat windows way off. With a good lacquer, all of that uncertainty goes out the window. Most lacquers can be re-coated whenever you choose, whether it be 5 minutes, 5 hours, or 5 weeks. #4. Problems with paint thickness, and by extension detail hide, is a big factor with enamel, and virtually non-existent with lacquer. If you happen to have a situation where you've already applied a couple of coats of Rustoleum, and a problem arises that requires another coat or 2, there is a high probability that you are going to have a problem with obscured details, even to the point of beginning to fill panel lines to the extent of them becoming non-existent. At that point, the most likely option is the dunk tank. With lacquers, multiple coat systems are not only possible, but in many cases desirable. Using lacquer products, I routinely use as many as 15 coats of primer, color and clear producing no detail hide whatsoever. I won't go into the rationale for using that many coats at this time, but there are legitimate reasons for it. Using the same scenario above, should an additional coat, or 2, or 3, be required when using a lacquer, no problem. It's just a matter of adding more paint without the inherent problems you're probably going to encounter when adding additional coats of enamel. #5. Another issue related to paint thickness and chemistry is the fact that enamels such as Rustoleum level out very slowly. This can be an advantage as slow leveling allows for the paint to smooth itself as it drys, but it can also be a disadvantage as it also allows the paint to pool, or draw away from sharp edges which is also another problem I frequently see. Slower drying properties also allow for such issues such as runs, sags, fish eyes, etc, which are much less likely with a fast drying paint. And as I've already stated, exposed sharp edges, or lightly covered panel line edges can be a difficulty due to the fact that additional coats to cover can obscure other fine features of the model. Lacquers begin to dry so quickly that paint pooling, drawing away from edges, and runs and other related anomalies are virtually eliminated. #6. Another frequent problem with Rustoleum seems to be over coating with a clear coat. Not only do I see frequent paint disasters with people who have ruined paint jobs by merely trying to add a clear coat from the same company, or even the same paint line, but the fact that you are highly limited to the products that you can use over it makes things much more difficult. With lacquers, there are virtually no limits whatsoever. Should you choose to use a waterborne acrylic, an enamel, a 2K product, or a lacquer clear coat, type and manufacturer of the product you choose to use will make absolutely no difference over a lacquer base, and the interval at which you apply it matters none either. I could go on, but I think that these few examples of the versatility of lacquer over an enamel such as Rustoleum should be quite evident to anyone who's been experimenting with different paint systems over many years of trial and error. On a side note, I too have more than my fair share of trophies, plaques, ribbons, and magazine appearances with my projects, but I never attribute that success to a particular product that was used during the build. The accolades should always be given to the craftsman in those circumstances, and not the materials that were used. Steve

Sometimes I sand the final primer coat, sometimes I don't. If there happens to be any dust particles or visible orange peel, (which with Duplicolor primer is almost never) I'll sand it very lightly. If not, I leave well enough alone. You shouldn't have any adhesion issues if you're using lacquer over lacquer primer. Steve

The epoxy that I use is a "5 minute" epoxy, but it takes longer than that to tack up to the point of being able to hold the part without slipping. As a matter of fact, I'll often let it sit for longer. (maybe 15 minutes) I'll gauge progress by checking the viscosity of the glue that's left on the card, and when it feels right, I'll install the part. Steve

I use 2 part epoxy. I mix a little and put a dab on the body with a tooth pick. Then I let it set up for ten minutes or so to tack up. Once it has tacked up sufficiently, you can stick the part onto the glue and it will pretty much stay where you put it, yet there will still be enough viscosity where it can be positioned if needed. That said, I pretty much pin all of those parts now. It’s just a lot easier and more secure. Oh, and by the way, always apply the glue to the surface that the part is to be glued to and not the part. That way, if you happen to slip and drop the part, you’re not going to wind up with a glue smear down the side of a quarter panel. Steve

You shouldn’t have to glue the tires to the rims, unless there’s some strange issue. you glue the front of the rim to the back of the rim, squeezing the tire in between. Steve

Here's the thing. I don't use Tamiya or Rustoleum paints, and yes, I have used them both. But when the topic arises, for the sake of those who might not be familiar with either one, I recommend Tamiya because I have used both, and I know which is a better product, and which one a novice is likely to have less problems with. I don't care what paint people use. Never have, and never will. But when the comparison is raised, I'm going to offer what my experience has been, regardless if I ruffle any feathers or not. I've seen instances when people have had unflattering things to say about my paint preferences too. Does it bother me?........Nope. Steve

😄 Steve

We understand that some claim to use it all of the time with no issues, but in terms of ease of use along with far less potential problems, the Tamiya paint is undoubtedly superior for our purposes. The fact remains that problems when using Rustoleum paint far outweigh problems with Tamiya. As I’ve said before, all that one has to do is spend a few minutes checking out the Facebook modeling groups to verify that fact. It’s just a much more difficult product to get right. Steve

Same price. Plus shipping. Steve

Yeah, I don't even have to watch the video to know the answer to this question. Steve

I despise them!! Especially on the Facebook groups where they seem to outnumber everyone else. You can try until your face turns blue to make people understand some of the basics of conscientious building, but it never really seems to sink in. Steve

That's a good thing to mention. I find myself routinely re-checking fit between the chassis, interior and body repeatedly, even after paint, just to dial in certain assemblies and parts, so you want your chassis to fit relatively tightly, but not so tight as to make it a bear to take apart again. Steve

If you’re decanting anyway, why not just buy this stuff? Thin and spray. Save yourself some hassle. Steve

I don’t even have one Javelin! Although I wouldn’t mind having one. 😊 Steve

Actually, the photo I posted was from the Spotlight Hobbies website. Kustom Khrome ceased operation some time ago if I'm not mistaken. Steve

Reading this thread is another reinforcing reminder of why I routinely replace kit glass with thinner sheet plastic. Kit glass presents numerous issues, and this is one of them. That said, it's usually a much easier operation the grind down the lower edge of the glass than it is to alter interior parts. Just put the glass into the body shell where it's going to sit, mark the glass from the inside with a sharpy just below the lower edge of the window frame, and then grind up to the mark with a Dremel. From there you can refine with files or sand paper until you get a good fit between the dash, door panels and glass. Again, these are things that should be done prior to painting and everything, but should you find yourself in this sort of predicament late in the process, it's much easier and less evasive to address the glass than to start messing with finished interior pieces. Steve

I agree 100%. I'm always amused when I see people trying to promote the idea that somehow "chrome" paint or ink looks more like chrome than actual chrome, (vacuum metalized on plastic of course) Never got that one. Steve

And then there's this. Steve

Why did you use chrome paint under the blue? I have little doubt that that is your problem. Prime with normal lacquer primer, and if you must, or desire a silver base under your color, use a normal silver paint, ultimately a silver lacquer such as Duplicolor. Then, for the ultimate adhesion, use a color of the same type of paint, (lacquer) over the top. I’ll never understand why people insist on mixing and matching all of these weird combinations of paint and then act surprised when it turns to feces. It makes absolutely no sense to me. steve

I agree with David. Mock up and test fit, test fit, test fit! And when you think you’ve got it all dialed in, test fit again! All of these issues should be investigated and resolved well before a drop of primer hits the surface. This is one of the most prevalent problems I see on the Facebook groups. People get into too much of a rush and their first instinct is to take the parts out of the box and immediately begin painting. And then they can’t understand why nothing goes together as they expected. I often don’t even begin painting the body until nearly everything else is finished, or has at least been so closely scrutinized that it’s without question that everything will go together properly. Once you begin to get into kit bashing and modifying, you’ll find that mock-ups and test fitting is probably the most crucial thing you’ll do during the course of a build. Steve

The Chrysler 300 is a ‘66. But I do have a ‘65 as well. Steve