StevenGuthmiller

Yeah, ‘77 was quite a few years beyond my interest. Partially because of the “power” question, but mostly styling. I pretty much lost interest at exactly the time when rectangular headlights came into favor. Just my opinion, but they pretty much destroyed the appeal of everything. Steve

I agree. I was never a Led Zeppelin or Rush fan when I was younger, but as I got older, I learned to appreciate them a lot more. I think some of that might have had to do with discovering over time what kind of unmatched talent there was in those bands. Was there ever a better drummer than Neil Peart or a better guitar player than Jimmy Page? On the flip side of that coin, I have really become disillusioned with other bands that I may have at least somewhat enjoyed in the past, that I literally can’t stand to listen too anymore. Bruce Springsteen is probably number one on that list. Steve

I’ve always had a soft spot for big cars, especially Mopar land barges. Some of the earliest that I remember from when I was a kid were a series of early ‘70s Mopar wagons that my mother drove, a ‘59 Plymouth Savoy that my dad had when I was around 6 or 7, a ‘61 Plymouth that my dad bought for my brother to drive when he turned 16, and a ‘72 Fury for me when I got my license. I remember being basically “gifted” a ‘68 Newport by my brother when I was a junior in high school, and shortly thereafter, I bought my own first car, a 1967 Chrysler 300 sport coupe. Loved that car! Had several other makes of big cars over the years as well. A few that come to mind were a ‘73 Buick Century, a ‘64 Dodge 880 Custom, and a ‘58 Cadillac 62 series coupe. Steve

Steve

My goal is to at least get back into the shop sometime soon and finish my ‘64 Pontiac Lemans convertible project, and hopefully at least get a start on a much anticipated full detail ‘61 Dodge Dart Phoenix D-500 build. Steve

Okay fellas, this offer has expired. Thanks for your interest. Steve

Hi Nathan. I found the paint that I had used on the ‘62 that is in question. Unfortunately, it wasn’t Duplicolor, but Tempo touch up paint, which I doubt is any longer available. Steve

Well, I doubt that the color on the Mustang would be any easier to find in a spray can than correct “Chestnut”. That said, there’s no doubt that either color would be available From MCW or Scale Finishes in air brush lacquer. As a matter of fact, I know that Chestnut is available from MCW, because I made an attempt at using that color on a project some years ago. Steve

That’s the actual Ford “Chestnut” color. I’ll check my paint stash and see if I happen to still have a can of the Duplicolor color that I used on my friend’s ‘62. Steve

I don't remember the color, but I do remember that it was a Duplicolor paint. It was the only thing that I could find at the time that kind of came close to replicating '62 Ford "Chestnut". Of course, if I had it to do over, I would get the correct color from MCW or Scale Finishes. Steve

I’ve gotten to the point where I don’t require a panel liner anymore, as I just deeply scribe the panel lines, which eliminates the need for darkening panel lines. But when I did darken them, just plain old acrylic craft paint thinned to a wash consistency is all that you need. I have never found any need for a specific panel line paint. Just another expense, and more clutter for the shop in my opinion. You may want to keep in mind that black panel line accents generally look out of place on a very light color, such as white, so I would usually use a darker version of the body color for the panel lines to cut back on the “stark” appearance of black. This Bonneville used no accent. Just deeply scribed panels. This ‘58 Buick was done with acrylic craft paint. Steve

I had an original derelict hard top that a friend had given me with the intention of returning it to him at some point if I was able to restore it for him. I returned it to him a few years ago, and while it certainly wasn't one of my best attempts, he was extremely excited about seeing it in one piece again. It was supposed to represent a car that his father owned even though his was an XL. Since then, I was able to acquire a very nice example of a '62 Sunliner convertible, which I built some years back. Although I'm really not a huge fan of the '62 Fords, it remains one of my favorites in my collection of models that I've built. Steve

This entire lot has to go together. I'm not the owner, I'm just trying to help him move them and he doesn't want to deal with them individually. If you have some interest, PM me. Steve

The only likely way that you’re ever going to see the ‘62 Ford again is if Round-2 happens to have at least a portion of the original molds left and decides to “re-engineer” it as they have a good many others in recent years. I don’t see any scenario where the ‘62 Galaxie becomes popular, or sought after enough to warrant an all new tooling. Steve

Believe me, they’ll make more. Steve

Because by the time it’s all said and done, to create a model kit from scratch costs into the hundreds of thousands of dollars, and you had better make damn sure that whatever subject you decide to do is going to turn a profit or you’re gonna be out of business real quick! Everybody has their “pet subject” and there’s no way that they can all be done. Contrary to popular belief among modelers, kit companies are in business to make money, not to make every individual modeler happy. Steve

It was added to the list later, but unfortunately this lot is to be moved as one unit and cannot be broken up. Also, it would probably be easiest to build it as a convertible as it has a broken C-pillar. Steve

You can use pretty much whatever you want over Scale Finishes "base coat", as it's a lacquer and will accept virtually anything. My approach is to use Duplicolor "Perfect Match", "Protective Clear Coat", and then cut and polish. I know that there are all kinds of new advancements in clear coats with all of the "K" products, but I'm a little old school, and I figure if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Steve

I can do pretty much anything that needs doing with a few different sizes of silver, single strand, insulated wire. A set of 30 AWG wrapping wire in various colors is a good place to start. 30 AWG is usually a pretty good match for battery cables, various vacuum lines, etc, and when you strip the insulation, the single strand inside is pretty much perfect for fuel lines, brake lines, etc. From there, a couple of smaller gauges will work well for plug wires, and smaller for miscellaneous firewall, fender well, and engine wiring. Some of these smaller wires are a little more difficult to find, (usually come from China) but you can generally find them on eBay. Something in the neighborhood of 32 AWG is about perfect for plug wires, and 36 AWG is good for most other small wires. The smaller strands contained within these wires can be used to make items such as carburetor return springs by wrapping them around a thin rod or another piece of wire. I don't remember the exact sizes for heater hoses or radiator hoses, as I haven't bought any for a long time, but I'm guessing around 28 or 26 for heater hose, and probably 16 or 14 for radiator hose? Steve

Doesn't require any special material purchases. Whatever black enamel or acrylic you have on hand will work perfectly fine for detailing wheels, hubcaps, grilles, whatever. You may want to use flat black and thin it accordingly for the job at hand, but I've never felt that I needed to use a panel line accent. Just seemed to me to be more stuff sitting around my shop that I can manage without. Steve

I always have rolls of cheap brown masking paper on hand, (being an ex drywall sub-contractor) so I do the same thing using that. Maybe it's an unfounded fear, but I've always had this weird phobia of wrapping models in plastic. I don't know. Maybe it's just me, but things like a heat source, like a light bulb, that gets too close to the plastic, would ruin a guys day in a big hurry. Plus I have this phobia about wrapping something that doesn't breath around a model for too long that might unexpectedly have paint or glue fumes still gassing out of them. And then of course there's the horrific concern that once masked, the paint you spray over it, reacts adversely with the plastic and melts it!! Just worries me, so I stick with the masking paper. Steve

The only one that I know of is the one in the MPC '69 Firebird kit. It appears to be a pretty nice assembly, but I only have one. Was considering using it for my '64 Lemans project, but '64 was too early for the OHC engine. Steve

Here's a few shots of the better of the models in question. Of course some of these are missing parts, and pretty much all require some TLC, but there seems to be considerable potential with many of them. Also added to the mix is a Johan 1960 Plymouth Fury. A broken C-Pillar, but a prime candidate for a convertible project. Steve

Just so you know, the '59 Buick is probably in the worst shape of all of them. Once I get the photos arranged and uploaded, I'll post some. Steve

“Assembler”. Opposite of a “Rivet Counter”. Steve