StevenGuthmiller

Certainly. It’s always good to have information on new products. I’m just skeptical, as I always am with the latest “silver bullet”. Especially with these chrome paints which generally end up being just the latest incarnation of the same old stuff. I can see the revelation that it can be applied in different ways, but in all honesty, I have yet to see anything that’s any better than good old fashioned Alclad. Steve

I watched the whole video, and while it looks like some good stuff, he never mentioned anything about what to me is the most important aspect of any of these types of products, which is the durability factor. He did elude to the fact that it may be able to be cleared with a 2K clear, which is a non-starter for me anyway, as I won’t have any of that stuff in my house. Too many horror stories to consider getting started on that. So, as is the usual case, until I can be absolutely assured that it can be detailed with washes, not be dulled by handling, etc, etc, I’m certainly not going to drop $60.00 on it. With the apparent probability that another vacuum metalization provider will soon be coming on line, I will certainly go that route before I’ll take the expensive chance on another same old, same old chrome paint option. Just the way I see it. Steve

Southwest Chicken, Corn and Poblano Chowder. Steve

Chicken Cordon Bleu sandwiches with Oven Fries. Steve

The Godfather. Steve

For “Netflix and Chill”, a bowl of popcorn with homemade BBQ seasoning. Steve

With the leftover roasted turkey used for the pot pies, I threw together a big batch of Turkey Salad for sandwiches. Steve

Turkey Pot Pies and Roasted Buttercup Squash. Steve

Garlic Shrimp Scampi and Parmesan Risotto. Steve

A few meals that I’ve prepared in recent weeks. Apricot Chicken Breasts, Baked Acorn Squash and Butter Roasted Carrots. Steve

I usually buy a bunch of Indian entrees from Trader Joe’s anytime I get a chance to get there. They have probably a dozen different ones and they’re all very good! Steve

I’m sure that there’s plenty of “vintage food” in the back of my refrigerator. ? Steve

Yes sir. Steve

“She’ll _ _ _ _ you for a chocolate bar.” Steve

I think we’re getting a little ahead of ourselves fellas. You’re beginning to sound like the toilet paper hoarders who flip out every time somebody sneezes. I’m not that type to let my blood pressure get out of control over kit prices anyway, so I’m not loosing any sleep over it. Steve

It’s my understanding that the “Custom Lacquer System” was always intended to be a base coat/clear coat system. Now of course a “fabric” color, while within the same system, wouldn’t be clear coated for obvious reasons. Steve

Same. As. matter of fact, I usually let it sit for much longer. Often several months. One of the many reasons why I stopped using enamel. Steve

You can get virtually any color that exists in lacquer if you’re not limited to spray cans. If you combine the color pallet available from MCW, Scale Finishes, and a number of other aftermarket paint providers, there’s no reason that you shouldn’t be able to find any color that you can think of in lacquer. I would imagine that there are hundreds, if not thousands of choices. Steve

I have to agree. It’s all about the paint. There’s no possible way to offer any sort of definitive spacing without knowing exactly what paint you’re using and how much. This is another good reason to settle upon a definitive set of materials and procedures and stick with it for all projects. jumping back and forth between materials used, and how they’re used is all but guaranteed to produce discrepancies in panel fitment. Once you have settled upon a painting regimen that’s completely consistent time after time, it kind of just happens by sight and feel. You get a pretty accurate feel for how much space you need to allow for paint, because you’re applying almost identical volumes of paint on every project. Steve

Almost all of the chrome moldings, trim, emblems, etc, were done with Bare Metal Foil. There is very little “chrome paint” throughout this model, aside from a small number of interior parts that were done with Alclad Chrome. I have very little faith in the durability or longevity of chrome paint, so I use very little of it. The acrylics used for the weathering are water based craft type acrylics, but for most engine/chassis/interior painting, I still use enamels, mostly flat enamels, and/or enamels thinned with lacquer thinner to expedite curing. As far as body paint, I use nothing but automotive type acrylic lacquer, such as MCW, Scale Finishes, and occasionally Duplicolor, with pretty much nothing but Duplicolor lacquer primers, and Duplicolor lacquer for clear coats. Steve

The model is an AMT 1964 Pontiac Bonneville annual kit that has been highly augmented using an array of different parts from other kits, as well as scratch made and a few aftermarket parts. Almost every part has been either modified or replaced. This is what the kit looked like prior to beginning the project. And the finished piece. Steve

I never pursued a ‘58 Edsel annual due to the new AMT Pacer, but I did build the ‘60 annual hardtop as well. Steve

The MPC ‘65 Dodges are quite rare, and have been for a long time. My guess is that the 880 convertible is considerably more difficult to acquire than the Monaco, and it seems that the MPC ‘66 full sized Dodges even more so. This is the MPC ‘65 Monaco that I built some years back. I have a ‘66 Monaco rebuilder that I would like to restore at some point as well. Steve

My guess would be that it's not terrifically rare, albeit it has certainly become much more difficult to find and exceedingly more expensive in recent years. I'm not entirely certain about the convertible, but the hard top version was re-released in the early 60s as a "Junior", snap style kit, which would cut into the '59 Edsel's overall rarity. This one was built from the "Trophy Series" kit. Steve

I agree 100% The less filler the better. Glue a short section of rod into the hole with a good plastic cement, let it dry thoroughly, and then trim the rod close to the surface and sand level with the surface. After that, a thin layer of glazing putty and some light sanding will do the trick. I use plastic as much as possible for filling holes. The less filler you use, the less you have to worry about shrinkage, cracking, etc. Not only that, but if you glue it in place with a plastic solvent, should you have to strip a paint job for any reason, the plastic won’t be affected, so you won’t have to start the body work all over again. Steve