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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller
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Mainly because you're probably more likely to be unlucky and wind up with numerous flaws in a finished paint job as you are to end up with a flawless one. It's great if you can manage a perfect paint job every time, but that's improbable. That is entirely dependent on your materials and techniques as well. These models, (as are the majority of my builds) wear numerous coats of primer, as well as 5 coats of color, and 5 more coats of clear. I don't think you could possibly describe them as looking as if they were "dipped". Steve
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I may not have used the same terminology, but I agree. The only time I sand between coats is if it's absolutely necessary, and that applies to primer, color and clear, and I use a LOT of coats. As many as 14 or 15 coats when it's all said and done. Of course I'm using all lacquer based products, so there's never any issues with bond where sanding or scuffing is really a necessity. A very sound recommendation. You're far better off starting out with tested and reliable products before you begin "experimenting" with others. Some of those "others" might be quite easy to master and work with, while others, regardless of how much experience you might feel that you have with them, can be very unpredictable, and you never know when they're going to sneak up and bite you right on your posterior! Steve
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Not sure what you’re finding, but MCW is in operation and the site is working fine. You’re probably searching for the wrong URL. Use the link provided by Bill above. Steve
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And of course that's a big part of the problem, especially for inexperienced builders. They will often expect that all of the products offered by one manufacturer or another should work hand in glove with one and another, and that is certainly not the case. It can be extremely confusing, and in most cases, they're left to just guess, and that's very often where they wind up running into trouble. This is one of the primary reasons why I went to an air brush. What I frequently see is individuals making choices of the paint that they want to use based almost entirely on color, having no indication at all if the paint they choose will work with the other materials that they normally use, or if they are even aware of the basic properties of the paint they have chosen. (ie, even whether it's an enamel, lacquer, etc.) Once graduated to an airbrush, you can take a HUGE amount of the guess work out of the equation. Color selection is more or less taken out of the equation if you commit to using products such as MCW or Scale Finishes. You can then choose any color that you desire from hundreds, or even thousands of choices, and still remain within the boundaries of the overall paint regimen you've chosen. In other words, there's no longer any guessing as to whether your primer, paint and clear will work with one and other, or not. You're guaranteed that your process remains secure. Steve
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Marcy helping me fix a ceiling fan. Steve
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Any Pets? (fish, dog, cat, etc..)
StevenGuthmiller replied to Falcon Ranchero's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
My "ceiling fan repair" helper! Marcy. Steve -
Picked up a little more bling for the wall this past Sunday. Steve
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Yes, Johan did produce ‘67 and ‘68 Plymouth Furys in both hardtop and convertible. I have one of the ‘67 hardtops. These kits were produced only once and were never re-issued making them expensive and difficult to find. Actually very nice kits with the standard fantastic Johan body and very nice interiors, but the engines and chassis were also of usual Johan quality......not so great. Luckily, there are a number of kits that would make great donors for more detailed chassis and engines. This ‘67 has been on my “short list” for a while. Steve
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1960 Ford pickup engine color?
StevenGuthmiller replied to TonyK's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don’t know about anyone else, but I have a lot of fun researching this kind of stuff. It’s not always fruitful, but you’ll almost always learn a lot in the process. Steve -
What Did You See In Your Yard Today?
StevenGuthmiller replied to Tim W. SoCal's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
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Revell Snap-Tite 63 Corvette Transformation
StevenGuthmiller replied to StokeModels's topic in Model Cars
That’s impressive! Steve -
American Graffiti Cars
StevenGuthmiller replied to bluestringer's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Fun stuff. Steve -
Yes, I know that. I am quite aware that they don't "manufacture" the paint. They offer it to the public, "designated" as a paint to be used on model cars. Likewise, yes.....I agree with you. What all of these paints, including Rustoleum, were designed for, is a moot point. None of these paints, were designed to be used on styrene plastic model kits, except for Tamiya and Testors, which makes their formulation in conjunction with modeling a "moot point". "Which brings us to the elephant in the room. What is hobby paint? And what is paint in general. Because House of Color is NOT made for plastic models. Nail Polish is NOT made for plastic models. Automotive (duhh) hot lacquers are NOT made for plastic models. Are you ready for it? MCW, Splash, Gravity, Scale finishes, SMS etc.,etc. are NOT made for plastic models. All of them are companies where someone had a large quantity of factory code paint mixed in an auto paint shop and then brakes it into smaller bottles with their label. Inside is the exact same hot automotive lacquer you will get if you walk into a PPG shop and order paint for your real car. And as we know, all these paints WILL give us trouble depending on how are we using them and what we combine them with". I'm not concerned in the least what the paints were "designed" to do. Never was, and never said I was. My concern is what they have the "ability" to do, or what they are "likely" to do, when used for our hobby. Formulation is only important in respect as to how it needs to be prepared for. What matters are the basic "properties" of the paint, and how it acts, and the delivery system by which it's delivered. Granted, lacquers require more preparation to protect the plastic from damage. But when compared to enamels such as Rustoleum, that take forever to dry, have basically untenable re-coat windows, are highly susceptible to temperature and humidity fluctuations, have much more of a tendency to run, sag, fish eye, obliterate detail, and have to be baby sat when it comes to using it in conjunction with any other paints, (ie, whether or not a particular clear is going to destroy it or not is a complete BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH shoot). Not to mention the notoriously bad spray cans and nozzles, which I'm certain is pretty common knowledge. In contrast, lacquers dry extremely quickly, lay down much thinner allowing multiple coats without completely destroying detail, virtually never have running or sagging issues, have no archaic re-coat windows whatsoever, and will take virtually anything you want to throw at it as far as top coats after application. Now why on God's green earth would I ever recommend the prior over the latter? Steve
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I can tell you this. I don't do it on Facebook anymore. In all honesty, although I enjoy the Facebook groups for some purposes, I would never, ever, ask a serious question that I hoped to get a genuine answer for. There are so many hacks and imbeciles offering answers to questions that they obviously know nothing about, that I seriously don't know how some unsuspecting kid, or an older builder just returning to the hobby after many years away, would ever be able to weed through all of the absolute dreck to find the kernels of usable information. But here on the forum, I believe that most members are fairly well seasoned veterans and are able to process most information without getting terribly overly excited. As a general rule, I believe that you're much more likely to get good, relevant information, and in a more civilized manner on a forum like this than in the pandemonium of Facebook. Of course we have our occasional lapses here as well. Steve
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1960 Ford pickup engine color?
StevenGuthmiller replied to TonyK's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I found what might possibly be some relevant information on a Ford truck board. Who knows, but this appears to be some of the more reliable evidence that I saw there. This comes from "Ford Trucks 1957-67" by Paul G. McLaughlin......... 1957 272 .................Block = red, Accents = black (Valve covers, air cleaner box, and so on). 1958 272/292............Block = red, Accents = black 1959 292..................Block = Black..... Red, blue, black accents. 1960 292..................Block = black..... Red, blue, black accents. 1961-64...................Doesn't say. One thing I do know for sure, The 1959 292's in trucks had black blocks, blue valve covers (lighter than Ford Corporate Blue), orangeish-red intakes, black air cleaner. Both my '59's were colored this scheme. One was owned since the early '60's, the other has 20,000 plus original miles on it. underhood shot of a 27,000 original mile 1960, on ebay about a year back. Judging, by the carb, fuel line and other odds, it has never been touched. -4speed That's all I got right now. Steve -
1960 Ford pickup engine color?
StevenGuthmiller replied to TonyK's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I saw that chart too, but it appears to be passenger car colors. Steve -
I don't know if I've been successful or not, but that's all that I'm trying to convey. And then put yourself in the shoes of someone who's painting his third model ever, and think of how he would feel if he just finished painting his third failed paint job because people are telling him, "Just go to Home Depot and get yourself a few cans of Rustoleum". Steve
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Okay, to begin with, you've never heard me say that you "must use" paints "made for models". You're apparently thinking of someone else. I'm completely aware that MCW and Scale Finishes are automotive lacquers, and I use Duplicolor primers and clears, also automotive paints. I have said however, that aftermarket paint providers, such as MCW and Scale Finishes produce paint for the hobby, which is a fact. Whether or not they are designed to be used on styrene plastic is a moot point. Rustoleum isn't designed for that purpose either, but that has nothing to do whatsoever with the efficacy of either. By the way, you're also not going to see me endorsing Testors enamels. In my experience, there's little difference between it and Rustoleum. If I'm wrong, I can fully accept that.....If you can offer me a reasonable alternative to my assumption. I have no interest in pursuing a crusade against anyone who chooses to use Rustoleum paint who is aware of the properties of the product. What I do have an interest in doing is saving unsuspecting young or inexperienced modelers the difficulties that they're very likely to encounter with the use of it. Just because some might have reasonable success with it doesn't make it any less difficult to work with in comparison with most other paints, and I guess you could say that I have a little bit of an issue with endorsing things that I know for a fact are inferior products to people that I also know are very likely to run into problems when using it. All one has to do is spend ten minutes on Facebook to find one after another failed attempt with Rustoleum paints of one form or another, to understand that these problems are not just some rare anomaly. They are frequent, and nearly constant. As I've said before, ad nauseam, I really don't care one bit what paint people choose to use. What I do care about is when young or new modelers are encouraged to use something, (whatever it might be) and then end up completely discouraged by constant paint issues that can be easily avoided with better materials. Call me crazy, but I believe in giving "the best" advice I can, not necessarily shallowly defending my own choices. Even though I don't use them myself, I OFTEN suggest to new builders to consider using Tamiya paints. Why? Not because I'm a brand loyalist who wants to promote my preferred brand, but because I happen to know that Tamiya makes a fine product that is likely to produce a result that they can be proud of without having to have a degree in chemistry. I'm not interested in stroking my own, or anyone else's ego. I'm interested in offering legitimate help to those that need help the most. Steve
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Agreed. That goes for quite a few other products as well. Sometimes I believe that people put way too much stock in what the "Youtubers" say. Just because someone happens to be good at making videos, doesn't mean that they're particularly good modelers. I've seen some pretty cheesy stuff coming from some Youtubers. Steve
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Here, here. Steve