StevenGuthmiller

I think that might be pretty close. I doubt very much that it will go for the $150.00 that it's at right now with 6 days left in the bidding. These are tough to find and this one looks like it's in pretty much pristine condition. Steve

This is another point that needs repeating for those who wish to try paint for an adhesive. Be certain to use a very slow drying paint such as a gloss enamel. A faster drying paint such as a flat enamel or some acrylics and lacquers may not leave enough working time to allow for the flocking process. If the paint begins to flash over in areas before the flocking or embossing powder can be applied, you will wind up with a god awful splotchy mess! Also remember that if you happen upon a problem and you are using a paint such as gloss enamel for your adhesive, it may not be particularly easy to start over again depending on the situation. This is why I like the Elmer's glue method. If you are applying powder or flocking to a part that is already painted and/or detailed, and you encounter a problem, it's easy to remove the glue with a little water so you won't mess up your prior work. Steve

Not sure if that will help much, but it's one more Olds than I've ever owned. Steve

Lotta help you guys are!! Looks like I'll need to find a whole new set of friends for that one! Steve

I tried to do some checking around to see if I could find one of the "Hampton Art" embossing powder sets that I bought several years ago, but didn't have much luck. Try "hamptonart.com". They show the set that I have, and a "basics" set on their website, but it appears that you cannot order directly from them. The website has one of those stupid "store finder" functions. Walmart appears to have lots of individual jars of embossing powders on-line, as does ebay, but I'm having a difficult time locating any of these sets. I paid around $15.00 for this set several years ago, and there is enough powder to do a lot of builds if you conserve. See if you can dig them up somewhere. Steve

Thank you Curtis! I appreciate the enthusiastic analysis! Steve

By all means Bill, welcome aboard! I'm more than happy to try to put your wealth of knowledge to work on my projects until you're able to start on your own projects. Your ideas are always welcomed and valued. Now, that said, how are you with 1968 Olds 442s? I'm sure I'll need some advice and pointers on that project once the Plymouth s finished. Steve

Actually, I don't mask anything Trevor, but I'm confident that much of that depends on the nature and quantity of paint that you are using. Detail hide will likely become much more of an issue with heavier paints such as enamel. Steve

Absolutely. If you are able to remove the paint well enough with a polish, I say go for it. Sanding can become an issue if you are doing too much of it, and the sanding/ polishing method won't address the issue of the paint on the "sides" of the script. It will remove only the paint on the top. Steve

One thing to keep in mind is that while using a spray paint or spray adhesive may work well with today's modern kit "platform style" interior floors, it doesn't work quite so well with a tub interior. It may require a lot more masking than most guys are going to want to attempt. Even if you're carpeting other parts like door panels, seat backs, console sides, etc, spray adhesives and spray paint can be far more trouble than it's worth. Just an observation to keep in mind what kind of configuration you're dealing with. Steve

Okay. I'll take your word for it. All that I can say is that on at least one occasion I tried to do some sanding and polishing on some MCW paint that I bought several years ago and the metallic "smeared" as it will with most 2 part paints. On at least one other occasion I tried to sand some boogers out of an MCW paint job and when I shot some clear over the top, the sanded areas completely changed colors from the rest of the paint and stuck out like a sore thumb. All of this means little to me of course, because I always clear coat regardless, so both MCW and Scale Finishes paints work the same for me. But all of that said, I can't say that I have any knowledge of the formulation of either product. All that I can offer is my personal experience. I do have to add though that so far I have found the Scale Finishes paints to be closer to the actual color chips than MCW. Not to say that MCW is not good paint, ( I used it for many years) I just noticed that my first order of Scale Finishes paints all looked like exact matches to the chip sheets and photos of the actual vehicles, while occasionally the MCW colors could be a shade off on one side or the other. Just another personal observation. Steve

You can do the same thing with any paper. I use newspaper. Just crease it down the middle before you start work, and the crease becomes your funnel in the end. I suppose you could save it to use over, but it's just newspaper, so I toss it. Steve

Then my guess is that something has changed. None of my MCW paint jars say anything about "Gloss Lacquer" on the bottle, and there is no way you were ever going to polish any of the metallic colors that I have. Granted, I haven't bought any MCW paint for probably a couple of years, but I know that I have tried polishing an MCW metallic paint job on at least one occasion, and it didn't work. Steve

I might check now that you mention it Bill, and at least see if that detail will be exposed in any way on the finished model. If so, I suppose I could at least paint it black. Lord.....why don't you guys leave me alone?! Steve

I understand guys. I just thought that an explanation of why I don't dive into too much chassis detail might be in order under the circumstances. I appreciate the fact that you guys follow and contribute to my build threads. The more input, the better as far as I'm concerned. Thank you!

I'm sure that I could probably manage it, but I like to try to focus my efforts on things that will be readily seen. If I remember correctly, it was getting into things like chassis brake lines, fuel lines, emergency brake cables, etc, that began to bog me down years ago when I began to lose interest in building. Now I like to focus on bodies, interiors and occasionally engines, but I try to refrain from getting too heavily into chassis detail. Steve

Thanks Bill, but the madness has to end at some point! Thanks for trying though. Steve

I use the same "slightly thinned Elmer's glue" method for the embossing powder. I never bother with any sort of strainer or shaker. I just dump it on and shake it around over a piece of newspaper so that the excess can be returned to the jar for later use. A couple of nice advantages of embossing powder are the ability to mix colors, and the ability to paint over it. I like the metallic embossing powder set that I bought several years ago. I believe it gives a nice "salt and pepper" appearance to the carpet. It might be a little too much for some, and I guess a lot depends on the vintage of the car you're building, but it comes in solid colors as well. If you don't have a matching color for your project, it can easily be sprayed over with the color of your choice. The powder can also be mixed to achieve the color you desire. The '65 Plymouth floor pan pictured above is a combination of blue and green metallic embossing powders. Steve

That's a nice looking '62 Hans! Steve

Scale Finishes "Base Coat Lacquers" are virtually the same thing as MCW's. The paint that you got from Scale Finishes was very likely their enamel, which I have heard, does have drying issues. Steve

My tip, of course, would be to use embossing powder instead of flocking. In my opinion, it is easier to apply and looks more like carpet. Steve

There is no recently issued '64 Wildcat. You're probably thinking if the '66. The '64 hasn't been re-issued since '64 to my knowledge. It's a very rare and difficult kit to find. Steve

Thanks guys! It was actually a lot of fun to build! Steve

Flat paint. Steve

Just a couple more examples of results achieved with this technique. Steve