StevenGuthmiller

I agree Dennis. That's one of the things that I always try to improve upon as well. A lot of the kit tires don't have enough "crown" to the side walls making the rim of the wheel protrude to far. And as if that weren't enough, it's usually compounded by wheel rims that are too thick. Occasionally these issues can be overcome by trimming the inside edge of the wheel or wheel back making them slightly too narrow for the tire. This way the wheels can be clamped when glued forcing the wheel to seat farther into the tire. Steve

They were "anodized gold". They oxidized over time and lost much of their color making them appear more silver than gold. Steve

sweet! Looks great with the up top! Steve

You're a sick, sick man! Steve

Top of the chassis/engine compartment is basically finished and ready to be mated to the body. Steve

No......you didn't.......really!? Steve

Thanks everyone! The engine is in place, and I believe that the bottom of the chassis is complete. The mufflers were taken from the Lindberg '64 Plymouth kit, but the rest of the exhaust is scratch built. Steve

I'm with you brother! I got really lucky in the past 5 or 6 years and managed to get nearly everything that I really wanted, and during a time when I had more disposable income than I do now. The timing was just right! Steve

I would guess that the Chrysler will go for less than the Plymouth, but not a lot less. I would estimate that the Chrysler should still bring close to $200.00. I won't intrude. I already have one. Steve

Give it a try. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. I even use the embossing powder for hood insulation, although this might be one case where flocking might look better. Steve

Super Clean should work, but I'm not entirely familiar with the paints that you used. In the case of automotive paints, Super Clean works it's magic by dissolving the primer and therefore loosening the paint. In some cases it might be necessary to put a few scratches in the paint, in various places around the body, down to the primer to give it some places to get under the paint. Once it has begun to dissolve the primer, the paint itself, being deprived of something to adhere to, will lift off in sheets. The only variable is whether or not the primer that you used is susceptible to Super Clean or not. Some flat paints are impervious to it. Some primers are actually easily removed with alcohol if the Super Clean is ineffective. This is how Super Clean can affect a multiple coat automotive lacquer paint job after a soak of a few days. Steve

My first born is getting married next Saturday as well! The difference is that she is 30 years old and will be paying for a large portion of the wedding herself. No model sacrifices required! Steve

You might be right, but here is evidence of what can happen when you use the "Baking Soda and Super Glue" trick for body filler. I'm not sure that I would want to chance using baking soda for anything on my builds after seeing this. But I suppose if it's working for you, party on! Steve

I had a '72 Plymouth Fury 4 door sedan. Typical 70's Mopar boat. 360 2 bbl, green on green on green! My dad bought it as a second car after the '68 Buick Skylark I was driving finally bought the farm. The sad part of the story was that the choice was between the '72 Fury and a Panther Pink 1971 Dodge Demon with white stripes, white bucket seat interior and a 318! My dad detected a lifter tick in the Dodge, so we came home with the Plymouth. What a disappointment for a 17 year old kid! Shortly thereafter, my brother was getting rid of his '68 Chrysler Newport and I was given the option of keeping the Plymouth, or taking the Chrysler. It was an easy decision. The 383 in the Chrysler ran circles around the 360 in the Plymouth! Steve

Don't give up. I found the Johan '65, '66 and '67 Fury's just in the past 5 or 6 years. All of them were un-built and in very good shape, all bought on ebay. The '65 was complete, the '66 was missing the chassis, (big deal) and the '67 was missing one stock wheel cover, which I have since found a replacement for. I don't recall prices on them, but I'm pretty certain that I did not pay $200.00 for any of them. Steve

Most likely not enough of a primer barrier, spraying the paint too heavy, or both. Just like all other lacquers, Scale Finishes lacquers are a hot paint and require a very good impervious base to guard against the lacquer reaching the plastic. By the way, what you show in this photo is really no issue at all. Give it couple of coats of clear, polish it out, and it will look top notch! Steve

I do my carpet, (with embossing powder) right at my normal work space, (but then again, I'm a slob) and I really don't have a problem with it getting into everything. Embossing powder is made up of very small granules that are relatively heavy and unlike flocking, it doesn't become airborne. The remnants just fall onto your work surface, and as long as you're working over a piece of paper or the like to save the leftovers, once you have poured the remainder back into the receptacle, you shouldn't have any issue with anything left floating around. I have done a minimal amount of research on this subject and according to information that I have found on a couple of different sites, embossing powder melts at somewhere between 200 and 300 degrees Fahrenheit. If any of your finished models are exposed to these kinds of temperatures, there are going to be more problems than just the embossing powder melting. I have also heard of and seen the consequences of using baking soda for modeling applications. Moisture will indeed affect it. It will basically swell up and explode if the humidity becomes too high. Steve

I used to have this same issue when using Testors Wet Look Clear. I'm not 100% certain as to whether it was because of spraying the clear too soon after painting, or if it was the clear itself, but since dumping Testors clear, the problem has gone away. I now use Duplicolor clear and have not had any issues. The problem was exactly as you describe. Very small cracks began to appear shortly after the clear was applied, and continued to worsen for weeks after. Steve

Are you sure that you have this stated correctly? In the above post, you said that you used the Scale Finishes enamel on the '57 Chevy. Steve

Same here. I didn't get the "animal" thing until after. Steve

All of Modelhaus's old stuff!!!!! Steve

The 426 with the removable air cleaners in place. Steve

A couple of nights ago, it was "Parmesan Stuffed Chicken Breasts" and "Roasted Green Beans". Steve

Screw the mortgage! They'll let you catch up next month! Steve

It's relatively easy to avoid that "wet look" you mention, even with a clear coat. A little polishing will knock that right down if it occurs. Steve