StevenGuthmiller

I wouldn't even trust it for that! Steve

Just gotta take your chances guys. Either that or settle for Alclad or Molotow. I'll take my chances. Steve

I guess it can't hurt. Steve

I suppose that I could say the Honda S-2000. I own one and love it, and being as it was only produced from 1999-2009 with very few changes, they never got a chance to screw it up! Steve

Even the Corvette lost me in the 80s No appeal for me whatsoever! Steve

That is always one of the risks that you take. I had a 1958 Buick Roadmaster bumper fall off of the rack back when I was using Chrome Tech. Fortunately, it was retrieved but needed to be re-plated, which he did. Back when Bob was running Kustom Khrome, there was an incident where Bob inadvertently sent me back a set of '59 Pontiac fender ornaments that did not belong to me. A more unscrupulous individual might not have sent them back. More recently, I had a grille half for a 1964 Bonneville lost during the process. That's why I have an add placed in the wanted section to look for a replacement. I just chalk it up as being one of the unavoidable risks associated with the process. Not much can be done other than finding and acceptable method of plating them yourself. Steve

I do like the look of this Snake. I just did the front edge and half of the lower edge where the rubber would be on the outside. Steve

The plastic used in the Bonneville above is "Grafix" .007 "clear lay film" that I bought at a hobby lobby some years ago. I just cut a piece to fit, tacked it into place with a few drops of Laser Bond glue and then glued it permanently with 2 part epoxy. Steve

Enough responses here got me worried about the long term viability of the electrical tape so I've already removed it and gone with masking and painting. It's really not difficult to do, but it's quite hard to see. I'm beginning to wonder if it's really even worth doing. I'm going to try that as well. Steve

I think that you're mistaken. The plater does not rack the parts, George does. The plater receives the parts already prepped and racked and ready for plating. There would be no need to send them to George if all he did was receive the parts and then send them on to the plater as he received them. If that's what he's doing, I want that gig!! Steve

My understanding was that the original intention of the OP was to determine vehicles that you liked "EVERY YEAR" of, from the beginning of the model, until it's demise or until today. If we are allowed to pick particular time spans, I can think of a million of them. If we are talking about a particular make or model over it's entire lifespan, it's much more difficult. As an example, I could pick the Dodge Charger, but then I would have to include these......Blech!! If I chose the Plymouth Road Runner, unfortunately I would need to include this! There aren't a lot of cars that I could say that I like every model year of. It would likely have to be a very short lived model like the Plymouth Barracuda. Steve

The color looked great on the Pontiac and the Olds in '61 Steve

It works for windshields and back glass as well. This '67 Bonneville has .007 clear sheet for front and rear glass. Steve

Thanks for all of the input guys. This was just kind of a thought that came to mind, so I thought it was worth a try. In the future, I might just mask and paint. As a matter of fact, I might give that a shot on this one. Steve

I'm not certain about how George operates, but he took over operations from Bob and he racked all of the parts himself. Steve

There is always the option of "vacuu-forming" your own. Or in cases of cars with glass without any compound curves you can replace the glass with thin sheet plastic. Steve

Well, it would have to be something that they stopped producing in the 70s. Ugliness prevailed after about 1974. Steve

I don't believe so. Most platers like to rack them because they use large standard sized racks that they can mount a lot of parts on to keep costs down. Steve

The 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix that I will be building will follow this example. Interior is white with a body colored dash and reddish carpet. Other options were the entire interior the color of the above dash, or black. Those are the ones that I have seen. Steve

As far as I can tell, the seals were visible on the '65/'66 Plymouth. Hard to tell in a lot of photos, but they look pretty evident on this '66. Steve

I thought that this might be worth trying and so far it doesn't look too bad. It just popped into my mind to try very thin strips of electrical tape laid along the edges of the glass to replicate window seals. I don't know how long it will stick, but I thought it would be worth a try. If it fails to adhere for the duration, it will be easily removed. No harm, no foul. Steve

Gotta agree. Pretty much the same thing as the 30 year old re-pop I have in my stash already. Steve

Best looking parts in the box! Steve

All excellent techniques Paul! The only reason that I wait until the final color coats before applying foil to the scripts is because my paint jobs consist of as many as 8 or 9 coats of primer and paint. That would be a lot of paint to remove if the foil was applied to the plastic. Leaving it until right before the final color coat leaves a very thin layer of paint to be removed. Depending on your painting techniques, applying the foil to the plastic will work just fine. Steve