StevenGuthmiller

Personally, I find very few of the referenced fakery "dumb". It's all about style and what the consumer likes at the time. I don't have any issues with fake scoops, simulated wood grain, etc. Some of our most iconic cars have fake components that added a very nice styling touch. The '58 Impala just wouldn't be the same without the front fender port holes and rear quarter and roof vents. Steve

The Prius looks particularly stupid! Looks like he found some old rags around the house and glued them on. It seems to be missing something though. Oh, I know!............The Bernie Sanders bumper sticker! Steve

I think I've finally finished this project! Only took me 6 months! But you know how it goes. Not a lot of extra time for projects such as this in the summer when there is yard work and other stuff that needs to be done. Still need to put up a shower rod and curtain, and will replace the shower hardware at some point, but at least the major stuff is done. Everything has been replaced except the tub.

I agree. I can't imagine that there would be much difference between the Revell '62 and '63 Impala chassis. Steve

Revell also has their own '62 Impala hard top kit. I suppose that I should have clarified that I was using the AMT '62 Belair chassis under the AMT '63 Impala body. As I stated, If I were going to build a nice '63 Impala, I wouldn't use the Revell '63 as a starting point. Far too many inaccuracies in the body proportions. The AMT body is much more accurate. Revell '62 Impala kit. Steve

I took the tape suggestion to heart as well, although I just wrapped a piece of regular masking tape around the teeth. Making the toothed area flat with a piece of tape aids in securing small parts while the glue sets. I hadn't used any "Plastic Weld" glue for a long time, so I ordered some recently. I'm glad that I did. It works a LOT better than super glue for gluing these small trim pieces in place. Steve

That's true. The Revell '63 chassis might be a better swap into the AMT body. The Revell body is a mess in my opinion. But the chassis and interior might drop right into the AMT body. Steve

I guess if we're really getting into "fakeness", there haven't been many cars built in the past 50 years that don't have "rich Corinthian leather", (vinyl) instead of real leather. Or how about fake wood grain in interiors and exteriors. If we are really going to explore "fake", it likely includes every car ever built in some form. Steve

Some pretty nice work there Oliver! The '72 Ford Torino is sweet!!!! Steve

I started that exact modification many years ago and just like any chassis swap, it will require a little work. Mainly with the engine bay details. But it should be a relatively easy swap. Steve

Anything with these on it. Steve

Very possibly! I don't think much changed in the basic platform from '68 to '72, but I'm certain that the Olds experts will have all of the details on that. I don't have one of the Revell Cutlass', and there is very little difference between the '68 and '69, So I figured I would use the MPC '69 for the base. Even the upholstery pattern is nearly the same between '68 and '69. Steve

All great looking builds! But I would give you all three of the others for the El Camino! That's just plain pretty!! Steve

You are more than welcome Brandon. I hope that you will enjoy it. Steve

This stuff is all just styling cues, and you have to admit, many of these cars that you pictured above wouldn't be the same without all of the "fake" stuff. I would take a '57 Buick with fake portholes all day long over some of the modern super cars and all of the ridiculous looking scoops, vents, fins, etc, covering them from stem to stern, whether functional or not. Steve

Tonight was homemade "Loaded Baked Potato Soup" with cheddar cheese, bacon and scallions. Steve

Thanks Keith. I'm not sure how noticeable they will be once the seats are in the model, but in my research looking at interior pictures, it's one of the first things that always jumped out at me when looking at the front seats. They weren't difficult to do, so I whipped them up quick. Steve

I'm assuming that George will be doing a tri-carb set up from the early to mid 60's to fit kits such as the Moebius '61s and some of the GTO kits. He has informed me that an intake and carbs are in the works. I'm going to use them for several mid '60s kits including the AMT '64 Grand Prix and '64 Bonneville kits. Steve

Thanks everybody! The front seats are nearly finished and ready for primer. But I couldn't resist adding one more little detail. The seat back buttons. Steve

I'd love to get my hands on one of these. Nice work Al! Steve

I appreciate the thought Steve, but I would rather not have to refinish the wheels. I should have enough options available to me if I decide to use the Magnums. Thank you very much for the offer though! Steve

Thank you Lorne! I used a mixture of Alclad "Polished Aluminum" with just a drop of Alclad "Pale Gold". It gives the carbs a metal like look with a slight gold hue without being too gold. I save a quarter of a bottle of Polished Aluminum, add enough Pale Gold to achieve the color that I want and then keep it on hand just for carbs. Steve

Nice work! The color is beautiful! Steve

Nice! This is another one of those colors that is almost impossible to discern from black in artificial light. Some out door shots will really bring out the color. Steve

If you're using just regular flat black as primer, yes, there is a difference. If you're using black primer just as a basic flat black finish, no there is not. I won't pretend to be a chemical engineer and give you all of the technical data on the properties of primer, but let's just say that it is designed to create a suitable surface for the paint to adhere to. Flat black paint is a finish. If you're using a simple hobby enamel paint system, you can use virtually anything as a primer. If you're using something like automotive lacquer, I wouldn't even try a generic flat black paint for a primer. It's a recipe for disaster. Steve